The Greek Roadrunner is finally here!

[Russ69Runner]

Is the motor turning. Do you still have points type distributor. Most of us do not have the money for a shop to do all the work too these cars. So, we do most of it ourselves. You can pull the motor out from the hood area. Or just drop the K member motor and all. The parts for these cars have gone up like most everything. Take it one piece at a time. Also take plenty of pictures when dismantling the car. It will help in the end. Restored my car by myself in my garage. Only need another set of hands once and a while. If it gets like you feel your over your head just walk away and come back later. Wish the best on the project. They do take a while to get them done.

 

[Rapid Transit]

Address the mechanical issues first.
Prioritize things that will let you drive the car for a feeling of accomplishment.
(Sounds like they really don't want you to drive the car. Sundays only?)
I revisited the pages and the only thing that gives me concerns structurally from a mechanical perspective is the cross member.
It appears you have a new floor pan hanging over it in picture.
As you probably know, supply issues exist.
This stuff comes from Taiwan. (At least for now.)
No cross members in stock right now.
https://www.autometaldirect.com/bod...member-66-70-dodge-plymouth-b-body-p-810.html
https://www.classicindustries.com/shop/1969/plymouth/roadrunner/parts/?q=torsion bar
Drive it as is or throw a coat of paint of it if you want to cover a "multitude of sins."
Rat Rods are cool.
Don't over extend yourself on money though.
That's a source of stress.

If this lady is in Greece, say "Hi" for me.
She's so fine and can actually sing.
We'll trade two Beyoncés with matching Grammys for her.
And we'll throw in a couple of Rihannas just to get rid of them.

 

[kariverson]

Is the motor turning. Do you still have points type distributor. Most of us do not have the money for a shop to do all the work too these cars. So, we do most of it ourselves. You can pull the motor out from the hood area. Or just drop the K member motor and all. The parts for these cars have gone up like most everything. Take it one piece at a time. Also take plenty of pictures when dismantling the car. It will help in the end. Restored my car by myself in my garage. Only need another set of hands once and a while. If it gets like you feel your over your head just walk away and come back later. Wish the best on the project. They do take a while to get them done.

Thank you guys both for the words of encouragement. I tried to turn it and I couldn't do it but I used a simple ratchet not a break bar and I hadn't removed the spark plugs so it would have been hard to turn it anyway.
I think I will do what you guys say, I have bought almost everything electrical new now so I'm gonna try to get it running.

Address the mechanical issues first.
Prioritize things that will let you drive the car for a feeling of accomplishment.
(Sounds like they really don't want you to drive the car. Sundays only?)
I revisited the pages and the only thing that gives me concerns structurally from a mechanical perspective is the cross member.
It appears you have a new floor pan hanging over it in picture.
As you probably know, supply issues exist.
This stuff comes from Taiwan. (At least for now.)
No cross members in stock right now.
https://www.autometaldirect.com/bod...member-66-70-dodge-plymouth-b-body-p-810.html
https://www.classicindustries.com/shop/1969/plymouth/roadrunner/parts/?q=torsion bar
Drive it as is or throw a coat of paint of it if you want to cover a "multitude of sins."
Rat Rods are cool.
Don't over extend yourself on money though.
That's a source of stress.

If this lady is in Greece, say "Hi" for me.
She's so fine and can actually sing.
We'll trade two Beyoncés with matching Grammys for her.
And we'll throw in a couple of Rihannas just to get rid of them.

Yeah it's Sundays only right now, they might change the law soon to allow them every day.
But I had problems with FIVA (Federation International for Vehicles Ancient something something) The car is required to receive a certification from them to be able to get the historic plates and be allowed to be driven. The a-holes pissed me off, they told me the car needs to be fully restored to get the certification. This one is the only roadrunner in Greece and it might be the most original roadrunner in the entirety of Europe, even the glass is original and they give me problems when shitty toyota starlets run around with historic plates.

There are a couple of pans on the holes but I don't think they're supposed to be replacement floor pans and even if they were they're not big enough. I'm gonna order front floors for sure and thank you for letting me know about the cross member! I didn't even know they sell that part! But to fix that it needs complete disassembly anyway, sand blast and then fix it and fix the couple more points on the frame that need patching. I might just do that. Get it going. Drive it to a shop and let them only go up to sand blasting and fixing the frame. Then leave it mostly like that. I love those Firestone rear tires though they looks badass and they're ancient!
Thanks again for the words of encouragement!

Yes that woman is indeed in Greece haha I'll let her know if I ever see her, she's in a different city I'll take a Beyonce up front though. The other one after the trade!

 

[Rapid Transit]

IF you have some rust you can't deal with right now or think it is not worth dealing with, this stuff works.
I've used it for years with good results.
Very cost effective and easy to use.
(And once dry, it's so hard to get off things even lacquer thinner doesn't seem to have much effect.)
I have sprayed it every where for years.
Rust doesn't come back.

Everyone has their own ideas about "reformers".
I don't like them.
Most seem to be water base which is a turn off for me.
And I get the "feeling" they may be covering up rather than really doing much.
There is a new product on the market, I'm interested in.
First page Ad in the last Mopar Action.
Says it "creeps?"!
https://nhoilundercoating.com/

 

[Rapid Transit]

Thank you guys both for the words of encouragement. I tried to turn it and I couldn't do it but I used a simple ratchet not a break bar and I hadn't removed the spark plugs so it would have been hard to turn it anyway.
I think I will do what you guys say, I have bought almost everything electrical new now so I'm gonna try to get it running.





Yeah it's Sundays only right now, they might change the law soon to allow them every day.
But I had problems with FIVA (Federation International for Vehicles Ancient something something) The car is required to receive a certification from them to be able to get the historic plates and be allowed to be driven. The a-holes pissed me off, they told me the car needs to be fully restored to get the certification. This one is the only roadrunner in Greece and it might be the most original roadrunner in the entirety of Europe, even the glass is original and they give me problems when shitty toyota starlets run around with historic plates.

There are a couple of pans on the holes but I don't think they're supposed to be replacement floor pans and even if they were they're not big enough. I'm gonna order front floors for sure and thank you for letting me know about the cross member! I didn't even know they sell that part! But to fix that it needs complete disassembly anyway, sand blast and then fix it and fix the couple more points on the frame that need patching. I might just do that. Get it going. Drive it to a shop and let them only go up to sand blasting and fixing the frame. Then leave it mostly like that. I love those Firestone rear tires though they looks badass and they're ancient!
Thanks again for the words of encouragement!

Yes that woman is indeed in Greece haha I'll let her know if I ever see her, she's in a different city I'll take a Beyonce up front though. The other one after the trade!

This just in.
I've been waiting for AMD to get patch pans in.
Just a heads up if you don't need a whole floor.
https://www.autometaldirect.com/bod...CTmD_hVkrnXMPso9gz7Bt2sGYhN6-TCEaAle6EALw_wcB

You could also order from YEAR ONE. I THINK the are an AMD vendor and these are their pans.
AMD and Year One are both in north GA. (local to me.)
Which ever one is better on shipping.
https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/chrysler.b.body/body/floor-pan/patch-panels

 

[Russ69Runner]

Say you're a shop and order direct from AMD. After running into ordering from another source found out it was AMD because it came in their box. Was and added charge from going through a supplier. Could save some money.

 

[Rapid Transit]

Sellers pretty much have this figured out.
At least for domestic purchases.
Without calling names.
Ya might get a discount on the price from one place over another but they make it up on shipping.
Just ordered and found that to be the case.
It was a wash between the two.
Always pays to shop.
The caveat is after covid ya better get a part wherever it is available if you need it.
The days of real "sales" may be over.

Another situation is there is only one place that makes the wiring harnesses.
(That I know of. In California. They have a web site last I checked).
So when ya see people selling harness, its from them.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Yes, had to call on my harness to find out what the color of one wire was for. Told me they changed the color. They were help full with my questions. Year one is were I got my harness from also.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Get it structurally sound at a shop and just drive it as is. Simple enough to get the car going on your own. Suspension is no big deal to do.

when you have the lca off, look at the weld around the tube. Those break and cause issues. Time to get it welded up is right then and there.

Your jackstands look plenty sturdy to me.

 

[69hemibeep]

I think there are two wiring makers M&H and Evans. I like the one from Year one which is M&H I believe, Not cheap!

 

[ACME A12]

I think there are two wiring makers M&H and Evans. I like the one from Year one which is M&H I believe, Not cheap!

Correct. Evans did not make an under-dash harness the last time I researched this. YO is the exclusive M&H distributor for MoPar harnesses.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

The YO harnesses are nice. At least the under hood ones are.

 

[Rapid Transit]

ACME has the same info I was told recently by another vender.
i.e. that YO is the "exclusive" vender.
Strange since that other vender was apparently selling the harness on the internet.
If anyone needs the under dash harness, take out a bank loan.
The Creature From Jekyll Island is alive and well.
(Been asking and surprised that people don't know.)

"Made me look".

I revisited the jack stand pictures and I tend to agree with the Get Stronger Jack Stands vote.
Not that they are horrible if that's the best available.
Back when I was young, I heard those type called "suicide stands" buy a funny guy.
He had a dry sense of humor.
The only ones I'll use are 6 and 12 ton.
12 ton when I want to get the car up high for added footprint and beef.
But I'm not so paranoid that I need anything other than a good ratcheting type.
The pins aren't the problem, it's the leg design from what I can tell in the picture.
Pins are even recommended by some over ratched.

IDK, those legs just looks flimsy.
(Spread um.)

 

[Russ69Runner]

8x8 wood timbers with wood screws to hold them together. 4 on one side and 4 on the other. It is a method that requires to move them now and then when doing frame rails. Everyone told me my car would taco and doors would not fit. Not true. A good floor jack is needed to pick up your car. Had those type of jack stands to help hold like the rear end and stable the rear of the motor. So many guys have been hurt with cement blocks and under rated stands.

 

[quikbird]

I won’t use less than 6 ton jacks with solid bases. Just don’t feel comfortable with less. And shake the hell out of the car before get under it also to check

 

[Rapid Transit]

Revisiting post 72.
There is nothing wrong with using OE style rubber LCA bushing.
That being said if you get some poly ones (cost a little extra from another source and you wouldn't use the ones in the Classic kit).
One thing is you won't have to cut/pound/weld to get the outer sleeve out of the LCA.
(Explained in this video.)
And that is my reason for posting.
Just so you know about the PITA of getting those bushing sleeves out.
I was surprised he said they are "new"?
This use of these has been debated over the years.
I've been using poly LCA busing for 25 years with no problems.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...5CH8cOXpeG6bURv1Ee6cB-HQxdW5eiCSbxBmYi7wuoUmM
Look around on the internet for arguments over this.
For example.
Here's someone selling greaseable shafts with them, but I've never felt the need for that.
Again this gets to the problem of shipping.
So you might just stick with the Classic complete set.

https://www.justsuspension.com/mopar-b-e-body-lower-control-arm-shaft-and-bushing-kit/

 

[jww69rrpost]

I just loved viewing all your photos. This is the beginning of quite an adventure. Have patients and absolutely have a plan and have fun!! My Road Runner had more rust than paint and at least twenty pounds of body filler plus a completely worthless drivetrain. That was eight years ago and now I'm driving a very nice car that's like a time machine back to 1969 when I owned a brand new Road Runner. I am anxious to hear about your plans for color; interior and drivetrain.

Enjoy the ride.

 

[kariverson]

Hi everyone! How are you?
I've been trying lately that I had some time to get the motor to turn over to change everything and try to fire it up, but unfortunately engine is stuck, I cannot turn it by hand (after removing spark plugs) I've put inside about 100ml on each cylinder of WD-40 specialist penetrant oil, let it sit for days but I still can't turn it. (Cylinder 8 is on the top position most likely because I cannot put the straw from the WD-40 can inside, the way from the spark plug is blocked.)
Any idea what else might be keeping it from turning? Or do you suggest opening it up, remove valves and see inside? Maybe something else I can throw in the cylinders or get an actual breakbar? I didn't use a break bar and I still used definitely over 80lb/ft of force.
I noticed one of the spark plugs was destroyed inside but I was an idiot and I don't remember which cylinder.
I ruined that tool trying to turn it haha.

 

[Rapid Transit]

Based on what you have said, I would start by removing the heads.
Check the top end before spending any more time trying to rotate the engine.
If there is no damage to the valves or pistons you may be luck out and get the thing to move easier anyway.
It's better to know than guess at this point.

 

[RonLiv]

A bit crusty. Make sure you are up to date on your tetanus shots