No more Road for the Runner!

[Russ69Runner]

Sixtynine_Bird. I am torn about the peel and stick insulation. Saw some bad review's on the stuff what kind did you get. You said it stuck really well. Did you use a roller to press it down. In one video I watched the stuff had let go on the inner roof. Also was pealing on the package tray. I do think it was some cheap stuff. Well what is you thoughts on the subject. Figure you bought the best material. Russ.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

I bought the Dynamat stuff, I hope this one of the because it was really expensive lol
Bought it as a gift for my dad.
Let me found it back on the web and I'll post you the link for the product

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

I bought it i France, but this link is english so it'll be better for you ;)
So this the heat insulator : Dynamat Dynaliner
https://www.cjponyparts.com/dynamat...04biOw1byjfFGtWNY3QEfrOrxlN_jiyQaAh_kEALw_wcB

And this is the sound deadener : Dynamat Xtreme Kit Pro
https://www.cjponyparts.com/dynamat...JxhxM3uGrxnP8qp4tTl_dMgz5oWM0EvcaAs8tEALw_wcB

On firewall and roof, I first applied the Dynamat Xtreme sheets and then on top of it I laid down the Dynamat Dynaliner.

In page 10 of my thread you can see the product inside my bird ;)


This is what I used to apply the Dynamat Xtreme :

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

It has been a year since I put the product in the car, the car never went out till I did that, but nothing alarming about the stuff unglueing or anything else. It is still in place and holds on pretty well.
I think it'll be just fine. But the shell of the car was just painted didn't put some bedliner on the car prior to that.
On clean surface seems to work pretty well.

But the Dynamat Xtreme as it is some sort of rubber when pressing down on the bedliner it should get stuck in it and don't move. I think it will work fine also. Maybe you can contact them too to get a professional advise on that one.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Oh and also, I use two packs of the dynamat Xtreme for the cabin so it was 2x36 Sq Ft. I was able to cover the floors the roof and firewall. Only took one pack for the dynaliner (especially because of the money too) and was able to do the roof firewall and under rear seats (where the mufflers will be).
Hope it helps buddy. Let me know if you need something else

 

[Russ69Runner]

Thank you load's. Think my concerns have been met after your response on the liner. I am buying it from Eastwood. It is called X matt. They all use about the same type of product to adhere it to surface's. Thank you again. Cant wait to see that runner in a video running down the road. Russ. OH Tell pop's for me speedy recovery so he can drive the runner.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

I'll do that no problem ;)
Eastwood seems to have really good quality products too.

yes me too I can't wait but still have to wait for months till that can happen.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

As you know guys the rear end is back on the car, but there is no oil inside it. My question is should I fill it right now as I move the car time to time in the garage and I will send it for the final stage paint or can I let it like that, dry?
I would prefer put some oil in it for the ring gear bearing and the pinion.
What do you think about that?

 

[69hemibeep]

I would fill it

 

[Russ69Runner]

Yes even if you don't drive it. This will inhibit rust from happening after all it is metal in their. This will help in lubing the gears so they are not dry. Jack up the car and spin the tire will lube it up. Hope this bit of info will help. I put the oil in mine and spun the hub even though it is not in the car to lube the gears. Russ.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Thanks guys for the input

I read on the service manual the we should fill with 2L of oil. I was a bit surprised of the quantity do you guys put more or this is really enough? I will check with the service note of the Detroit truetrac to see what they recommend.

 

[Russ69Runner]

If you have the same old axel bearings a little more wont hurt but if the seals start to leak it will come out. I will expand when it get's hot so stay with the amount stated in the manual. You will have to brake down Liter for us American's in pint or ounce's for us to under stand just kidding. Russ.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Ok thanks for the answer Russ as always ;)

Oh ok my bad so I assume it is like 4 pints right? Lol

Tonight I will fill then with 4 pints of mineral gear oil ^^

 

[Russ69Runner]

Ok Sitynine-bird. Remember to rotate the wheel to spin the gear's to lube them up. Russ.

 

[quikbird]

Double check if need the limited slip additive in lube and what weight is needed. Stuff stinks be careful

 

[Russ69Runner]

It is made form old rotten dinosaurs Quicky.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Yes I sure did that, so lube went everywhere in the gear I think.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Double check if need the limited slip additive in lube and what weight is needed. Stuff stinks be careful

Yes what a mess with that gear oil! it stinks so much!

This is what I did read very carefully the notes and they say in big characters "Any additive or synthetic oil Must Not be use with that system". So I just bought some mineral Castrol Oil.

And for the trans I bought the Lucas oil that I put when the bird was alive at the time and was very happy with it so just bought the same I did last time.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Russ.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Hello guys!

The car is on a slow progress right now but it is moving along and it is closer to the final goal.
We were waiting for the car to be sent to the paint shop for the last stage which is the stripes and clear coat. Now she is in, but the paint guy has a lot of project going on and the bird is waiting for its turn. Once the car comes back we can reassemble everything back and finish it! Finally.

Once the rear end was filled with oil, the next move was the installation of the rear sway bar. We took the original front sway bar bent it to fit the shape of the rear, made some support to fix on the rear to install the bushing, and bought some end links here in France the is mounted on European cars and it fitted perfectly! So we are pretty happy with it. Can't wait to test that too.

After that a couple of weeks ago we disassemble the engine to a bare block, so we can bring it to the engine guy who will rebuild it. We should meet with him in November so hopefully soon. The engine seems to looks great but it will be tested and measured before buying or doing anything on it. Like you know the car wa a total wreck and nothing were done correctly on it, even the engine was bad... But I'm glad that bore looks decent. I have no knowledge with the internal parts numbers on those engines but on the crank there was 3 digits that showed "400" does it mean that this crank comes from a Mopar 400 block?


And today we finally received the front end that we bought in February same year... it has been 9 long month waiting for it to be delivered but it is finally here across the pond. Now will do a mock assembly to see if everything fits and then we will have to prep it and paint it. We bought it bare metal has we have good quality primer and paint here in the house so it was a huge economy to order it bare metal.