quikbird
Well-Known Member
Nice fix to the problem. Effective and non-visible.
MA MOPAR BIT ME AGAIN or SO MANY MOPARS, SO LITTLE TIME
- Thread starter 1967 'cuda
- Start date
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
OK, maybe I got overconfident. Everything seemed to have been working out with the shifter UNTIL I connected the cable to the shifter. After connecting it The dang thing would not ratchet through all the gears. I disconnected it and it (the ratchet action) seemed to work perfectly again.
I think my problem now is being caused by my cable routing. I currently am running through the interior from the firewall instead of poking through the floor next to the shifter. Although the cable still slides through the sleeve it does have a bit of drag on it caused by the sharper turn the cable has to make by not exiting at the instructed position. In this picture I've got the cable above the carpeting. It's supposed to go through the floor where it contacts it.
When I checked online for info about this shifter it seemed as though there were several people that were having trouble getting it to work. - But the guys that got it set up right seemed to really like it.
Tomorrow I will try to re-route the cable again. I haven't made any holes for the cable to pass through yet. I went through a plastic plug in the firewall the first time.
Removing the original column shift arm was simple enough. Now I've got to figure out what I want to do with the old hole on the column.
I think my problem now is being caused by my cable routing. I currently am running through the interior from the firewall instead of poking through the floor next to the shifter. Although the cable still slides through the sleeve it does have a bit of drag on it caused by the sharper turn the cable has to make by not exiting at the instructed position. In this picture I've got the cable above the carpeting. It's supposed to go through the floor where it contacts it.
When I checked online for info about this shifter it seemed as though there were several people that were having trouble getting it to work. - But the guys that got it set up right seemed to really like it.
Tomorrow I will try to re-route the cable again. I haven't made any holes for the cable to pass through yet. I went through a plastic plug in the firewall the first time.
Removing the original column shift arm was simple enough. Now I've got to figure out what I want to do with the old hole on the column.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
First of all I'd like to advise anybody installing one of these shifters to remove the carpeting before you begin. It's difficult to take measurements and mark the floor with the carpet in place. You will also end up with shavings embedded in the carpet.
If you can, do the install with the transmission mocked in place and able to be taken in and out. My carpet was glued to the floor and I didn't want to pull the seats out either. So I muddled my way through the install with everything in place. That meant that the seat was also in my way at times. - But without the seat there before starting, I would not have been able to figure out the shifter location.
One issue to contend with is how close the transmission housing is to the transmission tunnel. It makes the use of a hole saw impossible. I had to drill small holes for the mounting bolts and for the grommet that the cable needed to pass through. The grommet needed a 1&1/2" hole. I didn't want to drop the tranny so I had to use a combination of an air nibbler and tin snips to make the larger hole. There was only around 3/4 inch clearance between the transmission and hump.
With the new hole made for the cable to pass through, my shifter now ratchets properly.
BEFORE & AFTER
If you can, do the install with the transmission mocked in place and able to be taken in and out. My carpet was glued to the floor and I didn't want to pull the seats out either. So I muddled my way through the install with everything in place. That meant that the seat was also in my way at times. - But without the seat there before starting, I would not have been able to figure out the shifter location.
One issue to contend with is how close the transmission housing is to the transmission tunnel. It makes the use of a hole saw impossible. I had to drill small holes for the mounting bolts and for the grommet that the cable needed to pass through. The grommet needed a 1&1/2" hole. I didn't want to drop the tranny so I had to use a combination of an air nibbler and tin snips to make the larger hole. There was only around 3/4 inch clearance between the transmission and hump.
With the new hole made for the cable to pass through, my shifter now ratchets properly.
BEFORE & AFTER
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
The next problem I ran into was with the transmission itself. Sometimes I ought to slap myself.
I'm pretty sure I know what's wrong. I think I've got a bent parking lock control rod. - And I'm pretty sure it's my fault. When I'd re-assembled the transmission I had trouble getting the rod to slip into the tail shaft housing. So, I tried to force it in by tightening the tail shaft bolts, but it wouldn't pop in. - And that's no doubt what caused it. The shift lever on the transmission won't snap into the park position like it should. With all of the different assemblies going on at the same time I hadn't checked it out before putting it in the car. Luckily it's not a difficult repair and I haven't put in the transmission fluid yet.
As the car has been lightened it has seemed as though it reacts harsher to bumps. The rear shocks that were on the car were gas charged and I wanted to go back to oil filled to see if it would soften the ride.
So, today I thought I'd pick up some new shocks for the rear at one of the parts stores. I'd stopped working on these old cars 25 years ago and just got back into it a few years back. Yeah, I'm still expecting parts to be on the shelf when I go in. Doh! Well none of the parts stores I tried had any on hand. - And worse yet, the only shocks in their books were gas charged. So I went back home, stripped the paint off the old shocks, repainted them, and put them back on. I'll look for replacements after I get the car back on the road.
I'm hoping to get the drive shaft back in the next day or two.
I'm pretty sure I know what's wrong. I think I've got a bent parking lock control rod. - And I'm pretty sure it's my fault. When I'd re-assembled the transmission I had trouble getting the rod to slip into the tail shaft housing. So, I tried to force it in by tightening the tail shaft bolts, but it wouldn't pop in. - And that's no doubt what caused it. The shift lever on the transmission won't snap into the park position like it should. With all of the different assemblies going on at the same time I hadn't checked it out before putting it in the car. Luckily it's not a difficult repair and I haven't put in the transmission fluid yet.
As the car has been lightened it has seemed as though it reacts harsher to bumps. The rear shocks that were on the car were gas charged and I wanted to go back to oil filled to see if it would soften the ride.
So, today I thought I'd pick up some new shocks for the rear at one of the parts stores. I'd stopped working on these old cars 25 years ago and just got back into it a few years back. Yeah, I'm still expecting parts to be on the shelf when I go in. Doh! Well none of the parts stores I tried had any on hand. - And worse yet, the only shocks in their books were gas charged. So I went back home, stripped the paint off the old shocks, repainted them, and put them back on. I'll look for replacements after I get the car back on the road.
I'm hoping to get the drive shaft back in the next day or two.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
The 'chrome' vinyl that I'd applied to the bottom side of the hood isn't exactly show quality but I still think it's an improvement over the old unfinished fiberglass.
I still need to get a dust shield for the 727.
The Purple Hornies may end up rattling against the floor. Right now they're tight up against the transmission cross member rather than hanging with a gap. If I have to, I'll notch and reinforce the cross member, but I think I'll try installing some heat resistant pad in between first.
The drive shaft loop fit very nicely. I will finish welding the sub-frame connectors after the car is running and I can put it up on a hoist. The undercarriage needs a good cleaning and a re-paint after I get things done.
As well as I was able to get the shifter to fit in the car, the pistol grip is going to be replaced by the black knob. After I'd bent the arm back it made the pistol grip sit at an awkward angle.
I still need to get a dust shield for the 727.
The Purple Hornies may end up rattling against the floor. Right now they're tight up against the transmission cross member rather than hanging with a gap. If I have to, I'll notch and reinforce the cross member, but I think I'll try installing some heat resistant pad in between first.
The drive shaft loop fit very nicely. I will finish welding the sub-frame connectors after the car is running and I can put it up on a hoist. The undercarriage needs a good cleaning and a re-paint after I get things done.
As well as I was able to get the shifter to fit in the car, the pistol grip is going to be replaced by the black knob. After I'd bent the arm back it made the pistol grip sit at an awkward angle.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
NEW PROBLEM! Getting everything ready for my EVANS waterless antifreeze meant getting as much of the old coolant out of my system as I could. I had flushed the radiator and the new motor was shipped to me dry by MRL. That left the heater core to be flushed.
I cranked the pressure down on my compressor to 20 pounds and blew through one of the heater hoses while I caught residual coolant from the other. As I left it blow for a few minutes, I went inside the car to listen. I could hear an air leak from the heater housing. So, it looks like I need a new heater core.
If I can't get one soon, I'll plug the hoses until one arrives. - I'm off to the parts store again.
I cranked the pressure down on my compressor to 20 pounds and blew through one of the heater hoses while I caught residual coolant from the other. As I left it blow for a few minutes, I went inside the car to listen. I could hear an air leak from the heater housing. So, it looks like I need a new heater core.
If I can't get one soon, I'll plug the hoses until one arrives. - I'm off to the parts store again.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
The heater cores were over $60 here in town so I ordered one from Autozone for $40. It'll have to be installed after I get the car on the road.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
I had considered attaching the wheelie bars to the rear end but when I slid them under the car I could see that they won't clear the factory fuel tank.
The hood support that I had made does clear the oval air cleaner, but not by much.
In an effort to reduce the amount of wiring that had been attached to the battery I added a pair of remote terminals. I'm still considering fabricating a formed channel to cover the wiring.
The hood support that I had made does clear the oval air cleaner, but not by much.
In an effort to reduce the amount of wiring that had been attached to the battery I added a pair of remote terminals. I'm still considering fabricating a formed channel to cover the wiring.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
One of the concerns I've had for awhile is that I'm afraid of accidentally dropping the 1/4" nut (that holds the air cleaner base in place) down the carb. It sits under the lid and it might eventually vibrate loose.
To prevent it from happening I've decided to install an aluminum screen on the base.
I bought some screen material from one of the local hardware stores for 91 cents.
I cut a piece of it to fit and put a hole in the center for the air cleaner stud to slip through.
After setting everything in position, I fiberglassed it onto the base.
To prevent it from happening I've decided to install an aluminum screen on the base.
I bought some screen material from one of the local hardware stores for 91 cents.
I cut a piece of it to fit and put a hole in the center for the air cleaner stud to slip through.
After setting everything in position, I fiberglassed it onto the base.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
It looks like the air cleaner mod will work really well.
I purchased these aluminum billet U-joint clamps from another FABO member.
I purchased these aluminum billet U-joint clamps from another FABO member.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
It seems as every time I manage to save a few bucks in one area something else pops up to keep the wallet slim. I've been having a hard time finding a suitable drive shaft to have modified. The guy that is making/balancing the new one has raced stock and super stock classes for years. He wanted me to come up with a 3" diameter donor that uses the big u-joints on both ends. I ended up buying a Mark Williams billet front yoke for $200 to get this thing back on the road asap.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
I was surprised to see that the new heater core showed up today. I guess I'll be putting it in today instead of later.
A sticker was included with the Evans waterless coolant that warns not to add water. I attached it to the lid on the overflow tank.
A sticker was included with the Evans waterless coolant that warns not to add water. I attached it to the lid on the overflow tank.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
I'm still waiting to hear back about the drive shaft. Meanwhile I've been working on that heater core. In an effort not to mess with the control cables I tried splitting the box first to gain access to the core.
The new core looks like a good match to the old one.
I couldn't gain enough access to all of the screws without dropping the box. - So I unfastened the nuts holding the fan to the firewall. I was still able to leave the cables and wires connected though.
The new core looks like a good match to the old one.
I couldn't gain enough access to all of the screws without dropping the box. - So I unfastened the nuts holding the fan to the firewall. I was still able to leave the cables and wires connected though.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
My drive shaft guy says he had to order more parts so the shaft won't be done until next week.
Well the heater core is swapped out. I can see that I should try to extend the carpet farther up the firewall.
I decided that I needed to re-do the air cleaner lid again. The orange that I had painted it was different than the orange Mike had put on the engine. I hadn't scuffed the chrome surface before painting it the first time and I'd noticed some very small chips on it already. Another issue that I had was with the decals I made for it. I had printed them on an adhesive backed paper that tended to soak in water when it got wet. The ink I'd used had begun to fade within a week after being exposed to the sun. So I'm going to re-print some new ones on an adhesive backed vinyl and use the more expensive ink I've got. For now, I've stripped and scuffed the lid.
Well the heater core is swapped out. I can see that I should try to extend the carpet farther up the firewall.
I decided that I needed to re-do the air cleaner lid again. The orange that I had painted it was different than the orange Mike had put on the engine. I hadn't scuffed the chrome surface before painting it the first time and I'd noticed some very small chips on it already. Another issue that I had was with the decals I made for it. I had printed them on an adhesive backed paper that tended to soak in water when it got wet. The ink I'd used had begun to fade within a week after being exposed to the sun. So I'm going to re-print some new ones on an adhesive backed vinyl and use the more expensive ink I've got. For now, I've stripped and scuffed the lid.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
Well, the lid is orange again.
I finally started putting fluids in today. The rear end, transmission, radiator, and engine were still dry since the rebuilds. Now that the heater core has been replaced I don't have to hold off on the coolant. I started to add oil to the motor. After I'd gotten about 5 quarts in (from the 2&1/2 gallon jug) I figured I better take a look at the dipstick. ???? There aren't any marks on my dipstick. I tried calling Mike but he hasn't answered yet. I know it's a custom dipstick that Mike sent with the motor, but I'm not sure where to reference the full mark on it.
I guess I'll go ahead and put the coolant in now. I won't be able to do the tranny fluid until I get the park rod fixed and the driveshaft installed.
I finally started putting fluids in today. The rear end, transmission, radiator, and engine were still dry since the rebuilds. Now that the heater core has been replaced I don't have to hold off on the coolant. I started to add oil to the motor. After I'd gotten about 5 quarts in (from the 2&1/2 gallon jug) I figured I better take a look at the dipstick. ???? There aren't any marks on my dipstick. I tried calling Mike but he hasn't answered yet. I know it's a custom dipstick that Mike sent with the motor, but I'm not sure where to reference the full mark on it.
I guess I'll go ahead and put the coolant in now. I won't be able to do the tranny fluid until I get the park rod fixed and the driveshaft installed.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
I'm still running into delays but everything is getting closer to being done. My rear end guy now informed me that he needs to order me a different yoke for the rear end besides the one purchased for the transmission. I decided to change out my transmission cooling lines to braided stainless steel so I just got done ordering the parts from JEGS.
I ran out to our farm to get a replacement 727 park rod out of a spare transmission to replace the one I had bent before. It turns out that someone has apparently stolen my extra 727. I called up a buddy of mine that believes he's got some extras on hand, but he won't be able to get them for a few more days. Fortunately he's got an extra 727 dust shield that I'll pick up too.
I'm hoping on getting the headlight relays from crackedback soon. It'd be great to have all of the wiring done when the car finally makes it out of the garage.
I think I'll spend some time tonight spraying some satin black on the undercarriage. There's still quite a bit of oversprayed primer on it from when the car was painted. It's hard to show in a picture with the camera flash going but the inside of the wheel wells look closer to gray than to black.
I decided to mount the shift light on the column. I wanted to make sure that it would stay in my line of sight.
I ran out to our farm to get a replacement 727 park rod out of a spare transmission to replace the one I had bent before. It turns out that someone has apparently stolen my extra 727. I called up a buddy of mine that believes he's got some extras on hand, but he won't be able to get them for a few more days. Fortunately he's got an extra 727 dust shield that I'll pick up too.
I'm hoping on getting the headlight relays from crackedback soon. It'd be great to have all of the wiring done when the car finally makes it out of the garage.
I think I'll spend some time tonight spraying some satin black on the undercarriage. There's still quite a bit of oversprayed primer on it from when the car was painted. It's hard to show in a picture with the camera flash going but the inside of the wheel wells look closer to gray than to black.
I decided to mount the shift light on the column. I wanted to make sure that it would stay in my line of sight.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
I got a call from my painter friend yesterday. He says he's ready to take on the Lil Red Express. Before the Barracuda was wrecked I was working on it and had it almost ready for paint.
It's been parked out at our farm for the past few years while my efforts were elsewhere. I went out to look at it today and I see that it needs to be cleaned up quite a bit. I had left it in bare metal and a fair amount of surface rust has formed.
So now I'm hoping I can get the Barracuda back on the road asap so I will have garage space here in town to move the truck into.
My dream was to get both done this year and use the Lil Red to tow the Barracuda to a few shows. I don't know if I can still pull it off.
It's been parked out at our farm for the past few years while my efforts were elsewhere. I went out to look at it today and I see that it needs to be cleaned up quite a bit. I had left it in bare metal and a fair amount of surface rust has formed.
So now I'm hoping I can get the Barracuda back on the road asap so I will have garage space here in town to move the truck into.
My dream was to get both done this year and use the Lil Red to tow the Barracuda to a few shows. I don't know if I can still pull it off.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
I remade the decals for the air cleaner. This time I changed the layout a bit. I used vinyl instead of paper and switched to the good ink. I did apply a clear vinyl cover over the printed layer too. Now I'll have to see how well it stands up to moisture and if it resists fading better.
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
I am so tired of working in all of the clutter in this garage. It's going to have to go through a speedy cleanup after the Barracuda is out and before the truck comes in.
eBay sent me a $20 coupon to buy stuff with so I bought a few of these templates I can use on the walls of the new garage (if it ever gets built). They measure about 50" X 30" each.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261027724032...84.m1497.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330735429678...84.m1497.l2649
eBay sent me a $20 coupon to buy stuff with so I bought a few of these templates I can use on the walls of the new garage (if it ever gets built). They measure about 50" X 30" each.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261027724032...84.m1497.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330735429678...84.m1497.l2649
1967 'cuda
Well-Known Member
I put a little time in working on the model.
