Windsor Update

[sixgunrunner68]

The car was missing it's oil bath air cleaner. I found one on ebay. It was in decent shape and it needed cleaning and paint. I tried some of the Rustoleam engine paint over Rustoleam primer and it failed pretty miserably.

That happened to me the first go around with my air cleaner lid with Rustoleum engine paint. When I went to apply another coat of paint it fisheyed. Turns out I waited too long between coats. I laid the primer, paint and clear coat as soon as the previous coat flashed off and it was fine. Although it took a week to fully cure. I'm sure the humidity didn't help though. :cents:

 

[Basketcase]

good job Big

 

[Big John]

It all looks great John. Can I ask a question since I'm a welding rookie? When you did the air cleaner cover, I'm assuming 8 holes were drilled and you did "plug welds" right? Also what are the 4 tabs on the cover used for?

I welded the tabs to the air cleaner top. No holes, just welded the sides of the tabs to the top. I could have just welded a couple spots around the outside, but I thought it would be a little cleaner to do it with the tabs.

 

[John69RR]

Looks great Big.

 

[Big John]

Got a couple more things done. This is really slow stuff though... Seems like it's taking forever to get it done.

The distributor needed an upgrade.



Stripped the parts off and I ground the rivet off from the inside to preserve the cool ID tag.



Breaker plate with points and condensor. State of the art for 1953!



Cleaned breaker plate.



Pertronix ignition module in place.



Cleaned, painted and assembled with a NOS vacuum advance.

 

[Big John]

The original throttle return was an eye screw threaded into the top of a head bolt. I'd have to modify a head bolt if I wanted to do it that way, so instead i fabricated a bracket to bolt to the side of the head.



Getting the fluid drive ready and I hit a snag. The drive face for the clutch has a crack!




Good thing is I have a spare fluid drive.... Bad thing is the spare has bad seals and the drive face needs to be refinished. I have to remove the good face, have it ground and switch it to the good fluid drive.

This isn't mine, but this is what I'm dealing with. The fluid drive is bolted to the engine, then a clutch between the fluid drive and the trans. The transmission is 2 speeds with 2 ranges. It's shifted between the ranges manually and between the speeds automatically by the solenoids on the side of the trans. You only use the clutch to engage reverse or shift between the ranges. To shift speeds, you lift your foot from the gas and wait for the "clunk" to tell you it's shifted.

The low range is really just for hills and pulling stumps. To drive it normally, you select high range and then never touch the clutch, letting the solenoids and the fluid drive do their thing.

 

[Roadcuda]

That's interesting stuff John, keep it coming.

 

[69hemibeep]

Pretty cool trans for the day

 

[sixgunrunner68]

Pretty cool trans for the day

x2 pretty neat..

 

[Basketcase]

I remember Dad telling me about those trans in some of his '50s Chryslers.

 

[ACME A12]

I've never actually seen one in operation - only read about them. Maybe Big will invite us all over for a ride when it's done. :cheers:

:jester:

 

[Basketcase]

I'm all for that, but I was kinda hopin for a ride in that A12....

 

[John69RR]

I remember Dad telling me about those trans in some of his '50s Chryslers.

X2.

 

[Big John]

It's ready to come off the stand and start attaching the bellhousing and trans.

 

[george68hemirr]

sweet....Big.....that motor going to scream

 

[Basketcase]

nice!

 

[ACME A12]

That is really a nice looking engine. Love the time warp between the flathead and the much newer technology alternator. Really a slick piece.

 

[roadrunnerh]

VERY nice.

 

[69hemibeep]

Getting your skills honed for the runner I see. I like it

 

[Roadcuda]

That looks great John. After having a '41 Plymouth myself, that engine does look a bit strange with that alternator on there, but I understand why it is.