Its really not that bad. You don't need to remove the trans just the oil pan. Break the bolts lose and the bottom comes right off. The top can be rolled out. Get it started with a small screw driver. Be careful not to gouge anything. The new seal rolls right in. Oil it up a bit and pay attention where the lip is on the old seal. It can be installed backwards.
Terry, have you replaced the rear seal yourself?
I’m getting ready to do this job myself on my ‘69 RR 383. Sounds like a job that is tricky to do right.
I’ve bought a rope seal & a VITON (“rubber style”) seal. I’m not sure which I might want to use. It sounds like the rope seals used to work great, but they need to be “packed” into the seal groove, which isn’t possible with the crank installed (I’m going to do this with my engine in the car).
The “rubber” (or neoprene?) seals are said to not seal well around the crank, because of the poor alignment of the seal retainer in the block (the OEM rope seals made up for this by “swelling” into place around the crank for Chrysler).
Has anyone here had good success replacing their rear main seal with the engine in the car (crank installed)? Is the “neoprene/rubber” (VITON) seal the way to go? They seal ok, despite the Chrysler misaligned manufacturing/machining?
Thanks.
Rick