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Panel replacement

Andy

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Need to replace the rear left quarter panel but also the parcel shelf/speaker shelf and ends.Question is which should I weld in first
 

Russ69Runner

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When doing my car did the package tray first. Fixed all rusted out pieces. May need the corner filler's also. Depends on how bad every thing is. Then put the quarter on. The roof lay's over the quarter and their is a lead joint their. Will have to drill out the weld's. May have to bend that area on the roof out to get the quarter to slide under it. Their are corner filler's for the rear window frame. Thought I took more pic's but here are a few that might help ya. I use all metal to fill that joint. tried to figure out how to get it straight. Used this trick filled the area with product the used a piece of 3/8 inch plastic fuel line and drug it from the window opening to the rear window. It worked perfect. IMG_0105.JPG IMG_0103.JPG IMG_0102.JPG
 

Russ69Runner

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Just to say don't take to much loose or out. You will have a better chance of it fitting better. Do one piece at a time. Measurement's are good but don't want things to move. Spot weld in many different places or the metal will tend to warp. Also a lot of body clamp's are needed. If you are a welder you know what I am talking about. You will need spot weld cutters' and Harbor Freight has them. I went through a bunch of them. But they are cheaper than any where else. Russ.
 

dmartin

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If you’re gonna buy a new whole rear quarter AMD makes a great quality quarter a little pricey but if you want to do it right that’s the way to go, but before you do any cutting on the old quarter take and put car on jack stands level it out and take measurements every two to four inches and right it down so you’ll have something to go by when you put the new one on
 

Andy

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All good help thanks,do I need to brace.Already have the 1/4 $1600 AUS.(insurance) but still have to purchase remainder.freight is the killer
 

Andy

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All good help thanks,do I need to brace.Already have the 1/4 $1600 AUS.(insurance) but still have to purchase remainder.freight is the killer
Has anyone have a pic of the corner section of the window showing the window fillers thanks
 

Jaybirds70

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man looks like you had you work CUT OUT ,, for you... I Can c:beep:an see the fun I'm goona have. gonna do quater trunk ect on my 70 beeper.. Awesome job your doin.
:thumbsup:
 

Russ69Runner

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The fun is not over. Putting the car back together also has it challenges. It is hard to remember what went where some times. :thumbsup2:
 

Big Mo

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If you’re gonna buy a new whole rear quarter AMD makes a great quality quarter a little pricey but if you want to do it right that’s the way to go, but before you do any cutting on the old quarter take and put car on jack stands level it out and take measurements every two to four inches and right it down so you’ll have something to go by when you put the new one on
I used AMD panels and they are pretty good. One thing I found out too late to fix was the rear quarters radius was a little different then the OEM doors. If you look up from the rear of the car you can see that the door sticks out slightly farther than the quarter. I didn't have the doors on or that could have maybe been fixed. Big Mo.
 

Russ69Runner

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Have you tried to move the striker in. I am setting my door's now they are AMD. With AMD quarters. Something with the line of the door not matching the quarte. Even if you have the top of the door flush from top of quarter and door. Well it is what it is and not going to be able to do any thing about it. But it all looks better than a rusted out piece of junk. LOL.
 

1968 man

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Hey Russ don't know if you tried or not but the door can be tweaked in and out by loosening hinges on the door side of the hinge, I had to tweak mine to match up to the new AMD quarters on my 68 it seems like very little but it did help.
 

dmartin

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Y
All good help thanks,do I need to brace.Already have the 1/4 $1600 AUS.(insurance) but still have to purchase remainder.freight is the killer
es you need to brace the door pillar the length Of door section and cross ways down to the floor pan
 

Russ69Runner

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Hey Russ don't know if you tried or not but the door can be tweaked in and out by loosening hinges on the door side of the hinge, I had to tweak mine to match up to the new AMD quarters on my 68 it seems like very little but it did help.
I have run out of adjustment on the hinges. The door fit's fine but the bottom of one door is curved at the bottom. Start fine a the front rocker the curves out and some gap at the back near the rear quarter. The drive side I am happy with. Fit fine but the body line's are off. You all know that you assemble the car before welding and every thing look's fine but one you are trying to finish the car things just don't line up like they should. So you have to make things work. Had to take some metal out of one hinge hole so it would slide forward to get the gap at the rear quarter rite. This is my last restore job any way's but want it to look good. Russ.
 

Big Mo

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Have you tried to move the striker in. I am setting my door's now they are AMD. With AMD quarters. Something with the line of the door not matching the quarte. Even if you have the top of the door flush from top of quarter and door. Well it is what it is and not going to be able to do any thing about it. But it all looks better than a rusted out piece of junk. LOL.
Russ, The top and bottom of my door and quarter line up very well, it is in the middle where my problem is. The gap is pretty good also.
 

Russ69Runner

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It is not that noticeable. But I know it and that drive's me crazy. Have worked so hard to make the car perfect. Expected more out of the parts I ordered. I will live with it. No need to call the people that make it or the supply people they tell me your just luck to be able to get the parts. Or some thing that is close to the old one. Moving forward and going to finish the car. Hope it dose not give me a problem.
 

Big Mo

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It is not that noticeable. But I know it and that drive's me crazy. Have worked so hard to make the car perfect. Expected more out of the parts I ordered. I will live with it. No need to call the people that make it or the supply people they tell me your just luck to be able to get the parts. Or some thing that is close to the old one. Moving forward and going to finish the car. Hope it dose not give me a problem.
Russ, we want our cars to be perfect. I go to mopar in Carlisle, Pa. every year. I look at all models and when they were made they were made to move down the line and out to dealers. If you look at the lines and fit of parts they are not perfect. I did not mention the difference in parts to be critical. It is just the way it is sometimes. My 68 will look very nice when it is done. I will drive it and enjoy it as long as I can. That to me is what this hobby is all about. Big Mo.
 
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