No Pedal

[RR383]

That distribution block you speak is a proportioning valve of sorts. Although you can't change the biasing front to rear...it does regulate and the low pressure switch senses a problem. So I have a hypothetical question...if there is an internal imbalance with this little valve is it possible it either needs changing or reset if that is possible? Could a bad dist. block be restricting good flow as the rear drums?
There is something I failed to mention earlier in this post. On my maiden test drive in January the dash board low pressure brake warning light did illuminate more than once.

 

[Big John]

It's not a proportioning valve and it doesn't regulate.

No pressure on one side of the valve and the shuttle moves to one side and makes contact with the internal switch contacts. That's all it does.

The worst that would happen is the light would be stuck on.

 

[RR383]

It's not a proportioning valve and it doesn't regulate.

No pressure on one side of the valve and the shuttle moves to one side and makes contact with the internal switch contacts. That's all it does.

The worst that would happen is the light would be stuck on.

I've read where it may require a reset so to speak...your thoughts...

How often in all the years of owning Mopars have you had to replace this distribution block?

 

[Big John]

Never had to replace a distribution block. Never heard of anyone doing so.

There's nothing to reset. It doesn't block flow. It's a simple spring loaded shuttle. The shuttle (loosely called a valve) is centered in the housing with a spring on each end. When pressure fails in front or rear, the spring pushes the shuttle to one side. When the shuttle goes past center, it touches the switch contact and the red light on the dash lights.

It doesn't restrict or block flow.

The confusion lies in folks not knowing or worse yet, not understanding that this is not a proportioning valve like used in a disc brake car.

 

[RR383]

Picking up new not reman Cradone MC from NAPA today...purchased MityVac yesterday...allot to do......

 

[RR383]

Shall we continue down this unsuspecting road...well used the MityVac with some success. But take a look at the ID of the hose supplying the rear brakes. Not what I would call Kosher...a little undersized don't you agree?

 

[Basketcase]

possibly a collapsed hose on the rear end?

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[RR383]

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What this....so you would agree..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................????

 

[Ranger]

Actually I think that is normal. I was a bit surprised when I changed my front hoses last year and cut them open to check them (having never cut one open, I was expecting a larger hole). They where about the same as yours. Remember, they have to transfer pressure, not volume and those thick walls will withstand a lot of brake pressure.

 

[RR383]

Actually I think that is normal. I was a bit surprised when I changed my front hoses last year and cut them open to check them (having never cut one open, I was expecting a larger hole). They where about the same as yours. Remember, they have to transfer pressure, not volume and those thick walls will withstand a lot of brake pressure.

Maybe so, but this hose was stiff and showing signs of dry rot.

 

[Basketcase]

I'd replace it...then you might as well replace the two fronts.

 

[Basketcase]

What this....so you would agree..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................????

that was referring to my earlier post about the hose being bad.even if this isn't your problem, no harm in replacing a 40+ year old brake part.

 

[RR383]

Actually I think that is normal. I was a bit surprised when I changed my front hoses last year and cut them open to check them (having never cut one open, I was expecting a larger hole). They where about the same as yours. Remember, they have to transfer pressure, not volume and those thick walls will withstand a lot of brake pressure.

You don't transfer pressure...pressure is developed from resistance to flow. The MC by design delivers hydraulic force to the system based on piston displacement and stroke of the piston/s.

 

[Big John]

There's your problem... The hose is cut in half.

 

[Basketcase]

shifting on a hill

 

[Ranger]

You don't transfer pressure...pressure is developed from resistance to flow. The MC by design delivers hydraulic force to the system based on piston displacement and stroke of the piston/s.

Well, maybe "transfer pressure" was not the correct term, but you know what I mean.

 

[RR383]

Success....my runner now has brakes! Just in time for the car shows starting up here in eastern Tennessee. Thanks to all...later.

 

[Basketcase]

so...............what was it?

 

[RR383]

Well, a combination of things...I did purchase a new MC from Cardone, new hard lines from Inline Tube, along with new hoses from NAPA. Bleed the %#$$ out of the system old fashion way and after a period of time I was able to purge all the air out.
In my case two things bad MC and swelled hoses. Hard lines appeared original....might have got away with continued use?

 

[quikbird]

Might have but better idea to replace lines. This is life saving stuff, don't take chances. Lines probably corroded inside.