Help " electrical issue"

[bschomske]

I have a electrical problem that i need some advice on.My dash light stay on all the time.When i hook up the negative cable, so i can run the car there is a electrical spark that you can see right on the terminal.So obvious there is something that is drawing power.I just replaced the bulkhead and all the ends on the front and back of the buckhead.But i still have the problem.When you push the horn on the steering wheel the dash lights go out for that split second...I don't know anything about electrical but would have someone with that expertice do the work..But any help on where to start and look would be greatly appeciated..thanks everyone from this site....Sorry about any miss spelled words....

 

[Big John]

First problem... Any chance the panel dimmer switch is turned all the way on?

Second problem.... The horn or horn relay is wired incorrectly. Wiring diagram is in FSM available here: http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

 

[Russ69Runner]

Its those darn Gremlin's again. Wish I could help maybe something is grounding out. But sound's like something got miss wired at the plug or are touching some how.

 

[bschomske]

the dimmer switch is not turned on all the way because i can turn the knob all the way and the dome light will come on?? I will have to have someone check the horn part..thanks Big john..Also what up Russ

 

[dmartin]

Might want to check the steering column maybe something shorting out in there

 

[quikbird]

If the dash lights are on all the time the dimmer might be bad. Which is fairly common

 

[bschomske]

Thanks everyone who has wrote in.The dimmer might be something to check.Is there a test that can be done to see if the dimmer is any good or not? I don't mind buying parts but i hate buying something that i didn't need to do!!! Been there done that!!!

 

[Russ69Runner]

Being an electrician I would go to the block connector at the fire wall take it apart jump the grounds with a piece of wire. Then take a volt meter and with the battery hooked up start with each connector or wire to wire and see if you get reading. If you get a reading then check the device that wire feeds. It may take some time but this should help nail down the circuit or circuit's you have a problem with. Their is a wiring diagram on the web I down loaded off the net. Then I would disconnect that device and if it has many connections on it find the hot feed and check from their to each feed from that device and so froth till it is nailed down. Hope this helps. On the dimmer switch I would take the hot feed off if the problem goes away test it in the same way. Russ.

 

[bschomske]

Thanks " Russ69runner I have a friend coming over today to take a look at my car.i will relay this message and see what we can find out ..I hope we find something this shit is really bothering me..Kinda takes the Run out of Runner......Now get back to work on your runner and "Hits" to you.........

 

[dmartin]

The dimmer switch is very expensive I put a jumper in mine to make the dash lights and interior lights work

 

[Big John]

The dimmer switch is very expensive I put a jumper in mine to make the dash lights and interior lights work

You can have them rebuilt for $75.

 

[Goon]

had mine rebuilt for $75 from a guy off E-bay(devininsm)

 

[69hemibeep]

How do you bench test one? At full on I get continuity but I get nothing through the rheostat with my ohm meter

 

[Big John]

How do you bench test one? At full on I get continuity but I get nothing through the rheostat with my ohm meter

Just off the top of my head... Maybe a bulb and a power source. Measure voltage drop as you wheel the rheostat up and down. Convert voltage drop to ohms.

Then chant "ohm" and remember that resistance is futile.

 

[69hemibeep]

Just off the top of my head... Maybe a bulb and a power source. Measure voltage drop as you wheel the rheostat up and down. Convert voltage drop to ohms.

Then chant "ohm" and remember that resistance is futile.

 

[Russ69Runner]

I would spray the resistor coil and contact with contact cleaner and see if that make a difference. Dc voltage is bad about fluxing maybe this will fix the problem. Don't have power to it when cleaning make sure you let it dry. Spray it wheel the knob up and down and spray a few time's. This may clean the coil and contact.

 

[Roadcuda]

Just off the top of my head... Maybe a bulb and a power source. Measure voltage drop as you wheel the rheostat up and down. Convert voltage drop to ohms.

Then chant "ohm" and remember that resistance is futile.

Taking up a new line of work John?!?

 

[bschomske]

I need to have the dimmer tested and i think I will have to maybe send it to the guy off the e-bay....

 

[Russ69Runner]

Looked at it in classic sure is high for that switch. I would try to clean it first with contact cleaner.

 

[Big John]

Looked at it in classic sure is high for that switch. I would try to clean it first with contact cleaner.

That worked great when they were about 5-10 years old. I used to do it all the time. That cleans the rheostat and wiper well. The problem is the internal contacts get all crappy over the years and wear out. The only way to fix those is to disassemble and replace. It just becomes cost (time and $) effective to have the thing rebuilt and stick in the car and never worry about it again.

I had the one for my 300 done a couple years ago...