6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
I have always used whatever 10w30 is on sale. No need for anything more fancy. However, I do run Brad Penn racing 10W30 or Valvoline VR1 in my race car for the Hemi.
ENGINE OIL...
- Thread starter CombatMedic80
- Start date
Me too!
Of coarse don’t forget your oil will not deter to 5wt. or so until temperature dictates. If occasional dry starts done through winter months a very good idea. Never heard of 50wt. oil back in ‘60’s but with the loose ring tolerances at least in my 383, believe the heavier viscosity would truly benefit when running engine hard. At least I can say it’s recommended for certain cars these days with the higher compression ratios as 10.5 to 1 with superior lube protection supposedly.
Too, early days I had a straight 30wt. in my ‘67 Mustang, motor bound up. No start on cold winter morning. Ah, to be young again and even more senseless than now lol.
Too, early days I had a straight 30wt. in my ‘67 Mustang, motor bound up. No start on cold winter morning. Ah, to be young again and even more senseless than now lol.
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Russ69Runner
Well-Known Member
In these cases I would suggest a block heater that you can plugin to 110 ac. Most diesel motor's have them. Sure you could find a place to put one. Or maybe one of those heated blanket's. 
mac
What ?
In these cases I would suggest a block heater that you can plugin to 110 ac. Most diesel motor's have them. Sure you could find a place to put one. Or maybe one of those heated blanket's.
most diesel motors need them if they are outside or in sub zero temps. i would never unless i was in Alaska use a block heater for a gas engine. in these cars you have got to be kidding me if you feel the need to drive when it is that cold.
Russ69Runner
Well-Known Member
Hey mac make sure it is full coverage insurance is paid up. But have seen gas motor in cars and trucks with heaters in the water system to keep it warmed up.
69hemibeep
Sponge Bob Square Wheels
Had one on my 66 Chrysler 300 up in Wyoming on a timer. It was nice the defrost and heat worked right away. But that was my daily driver back then.
I know a lot of people here will attest to the diesel oil but it is not designed for a gasoline engine. Even the zinc content has been reduced drastically as the EPA has mandated that diesel engines use catalytic converters and zinc has a negative effect on the converters. Also, the diesel engines do not rpm like a gas engine and especially a stout gas engine. I wouldn't use it.
Yes, had the coolant water heater in my ‘69, I swear it started better than summer (DD). Saco River Valley, some mornings 30 below. One time at work the boys connected the oil and water together on boss’ car. Didn’t know why the oil was muddy looking, lol, don’t know if he ever knew.Recall had an adverse effect on valves was going to unleaded fuels. Ran leaded in my ‘Lil Red to the end. Used pipe cutter to reenlarge fuel filler tube and took off converters and replaced with Royal Scots. And with the chrome stacks.... very quiet with first I ever saw H pipe.
I’m not sure either on today’s oil and fuels used on yesteryear’s classics. Agree, nothing good can come of it.
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Just recalled on this also- https://www.reference.com/vehicles/purpose-using-non-detergent-oil-7b78dae74e654e99. Think this was popular way back, detergents.... But these days?
Russ69Runner
Well-Known Member
Just to say that non detergent oil is not a good thing. For example when taring down motor's in the old day like with Quaker state oil which my dad like the motor was all gummed up. It also plugged the oil journal's. The head where the valves where full of sludge. The bottom of the piston cylinders where also had varnish their and did not let the oil get to the ring's. I have ran Shell Rotella in many motor's and have found it to be a good clean oil. Had it in a Toyota SR5 six cylinder. Changed the valve cover gaskets and man you could eat off the valve train. I was so clean. Have run it in gas and diesel motor's and have had good result's. Run it in my Quad runner also no problem's. Not to say it is the best but have not had problems with sludge build up in these motors. But on my Harley motor ran 40 weight and was using motor cycle oil but that is a different type air cooled motor. I am using mobile one in the runner. All my racing buddy's say that is the way to go and a lot of guy's with old restored vehicles like these mopar motors are using the mobile one. Well just to say if your car is low on oil on the road and you cant get what you are using Oil is oil till you get the rite oil.
Russ69Runner
Well-Known Member
Yes Rich that is just a few thought's on the matter. I do have a quart of my oil that is run in my vehicles at all time's and a small tool kit. It neve hurts to have this when on the road. 
road robert
Active Member
Does a 1971 383 have flat tappet cams? I just bought my car doing first oil change now and wen with Car Quest High Mileage 10W 40 and a K & N oil filter. I think it's more important how often you change your oil than what brand you use...
69hemibeep
Sponge Bob Square Wheels
Yes it does, if that is the oil you like add some zddp to it.
Russ69Runner
Well-Known Member
Oil dose brake down and accumulate trash in it from the motor. The oil filter dose remove most of it but I would not depend on it to remove every thing. Their was an old guy I knew that only changed the filter then added a quart back after replacing the filter. He drove that truck for many miles but would have wondered what the motor looked like when it was rebuilt. Have removed many oil pan's in my life and the junk that is built up in them would surprise you. It looks like mud. Metal part's are in it and all kind's of material from gasket's and seal's can be found their. It is like the trash can it should be cleaned every now and then.
Ranger
Well-Known Member
Russ, I think there is a huge disparity between then and now. I replaced a camshaft on a '78 Ford 302 due to wiped cam lobes. The car was run on 10W40 and had oil changed every 3000 miles (late '70's to early '80's motor oil). There was no mud, it was more like pudding. I had to scrape that shit off the front of the motor in the timing chain area. Conversely, I pulled the oil pan on a '97 Pontiac 3800 with well over 100K on it (run on 10W30), and to my surprise, what I found in the pan was no different than a trans pan. Just a light film. I guess my point is, todays oils are SO much better than oils of yesteryear, that you just can't compare then and now.
Russ69Runner
Well-Known Member
This is true for sure. My Toyota changed the valve cover gasket's and it was as clean as all get out. Was running 10W 30 Rotella in it. My dad use Quaker state oil and after tearing down and putting motor's back together would never use it again. Sludge and Gum every where. Mud in the oil pan too.
Rapid Transit
Just A Traveler In Time
Things I've read and heard from biased and unbiased oil people over the years.
And what I've distilled from it all.
Engines are different.
New Hondas need a different oil than my daily driver.
At least in the weight.
Racing oils may have the zinc you are looking for but they do not have the detergents necessary for extended use.
Contaminates have to be maintained in suspension for the filter to work.
Does racing oil do this?
Diesel rated oils may have the zinc you are looking for but they have more detergent than you need.
An independent oil analysis man told us:
"Generally speaking chose as narrow viscosity rating as you can since viscosity indices additives mean there is less oil in it."
(This goes for the diesel rated oils with that extra detergent then.)
A Mobile oil rep told us that:
"Synthetic oil never wears out and if it never became contaminated, you would never need to change it.
"But we make money from selling oil."
Personally, I have used Mobile 1 for years in stock 318s with no issues.
I add STP to one that has high mileage and is a daily driver.
I spend money on the Mobile filters since they seem to be quality filters.
BTW, I think that synthetic oil does not cause engines to leak.
It has a smaller, more uniform molecule and IF the engine is going to leak it will just leak worse with synthetic.
My daily driver was losing some at the front seal.
Getting dirty there.
And then it seemed to stop.
Strange.
And what I've distilled from it all.
Engines are different.
New Hondas need a different oil than my daily driver.
At least in the weight.
Racing oils may have the zinc you are looking for but they do not have the detergents necessary for extended use.
Contaminates have to be maintained in suspension for the filter to work.
Does racing oil do this?
Diesel rated oils may have the zinc you are looking for but they have more detergent than you need.
An independent oil analysis man told us:
"Generally speaking chose as narrow viscosity rating as you can since viscosity indices additives mean there is less oil in it."
(This goes for the diesel rated oils with that extra detergent then.)
A Mobile oil rep told us that:
"Synthetic oil never wears out and if it never became contaminated, you would never need to change it.
"But we make money from selling oil."
Personally, I have used Mobile 1 for years in stock 318s with no issues.
I add STP to one that has high mileage and is a daily driver.
I spend money on the Mobile filters since they seem to be quality filters.
BTW, I think that synthetic oil does not cause engines to leak.
It has a smaller, more uniform molecule and IF the engine is going to leak it will just leak worse with synthetic.
My daily driver was losing some at the front seal.
Getting dirty there.
And then it seemed to stop.
Strange.