Windsor Update

moparchris said:
I wonder if I could get away with that with the Rustyrunner.
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Not the way you drive :devil: I tried that in my old jeep once but they flex to much and a couple places popped :toetap:
 
69hemibeep said:
moparchris said:
I wonder if I could get away with that with the Rustyrunner.
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Not the way you drive :devil: I tried that in my old jeep once but they flex to much and a couple places popped :toetap:
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I bought a '63 Dodge once that looked pretty decent until I got underneath it. The car was a 6 cylinder 4 door that I bought to drive. The rubber floor mat had destroyed the floor from the inside. I didn't see it until I jacked the car up to put seat belts in it and saw the floor was paper thin. I pulled the seats and fiberglassed the entire floor, front to back, side to side, with two layers of fiberglass mat and resin.

I was pretty happy with the results. The car was a lot quieter too!

Fiberglass to steel can be a problem though. I used the POR 15 because of its rust fighting ability and the stuff just plain sticks to everything. I think its a little more flexible then regular resin and does stick to rusty steel much better then resin.

I think if I had to do a complete floor in a rusty car again, I'd paint some POR 15, lay the first layer down with POR 15 and the second layer would be resin and mat. You'd have to lay the second layer down while the first is still tacky.

That said, with complete floors available for a Roadrunner, its hard to justify using fiberglass.
 
Big John said:
69hemibeep said:
moparchris said:
I wonder if I could get away with that with the Rustyrunner.
Click to expand...
Not the way you drive :devil: I tried that in my old jeep once but they flex to much and a couple places popped :toetap:
Click to expand...

I bought a '63 Dodge once that looked pretty decent until I got underneath it. The car was a 6 cylinder 4 door that I bought to drive. The rubber floor mat had destroyed the floor from the inside. I didn't see it until I jacked the car up to put seat belts in it and saw the floor was paper thin. I pulled the seats and fiberglassed the entire floor, front to back, side to side, with two layers of fiberglass mat and resin.

I was pretty happy with the results. The car was a lot quieter too!

Fiberglass to steel can be a problem though. I used the POR 15 because of its rust fighting ability and the stuff just plain sticks to everything. I think its a little more flexible then regular resin and does stick to rusty steel much better then resin.

I think if I had to do a complete floor in a rusty car again, I'd paint some POR 15, lay the first layer down with POR 15 and the second layer would be resin and mat. You'd have to lay the second layer down while the first is still tacky.

That said, with complete floors available for a Roadrunner, its hard to justify using fiberglass.
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What your doing John will work great like you said no stress points. I can see Chris doing that with rusty, going to the track hammering it and leaving body parts down the quarter mile :lmao:
 
69hemibeep said:
What your doing John will work great like you said no stress points. I can see Chris doing that with rusty, going to the track hammering it and leaving body parts down the quarter mile :lmao:
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Definitely... Its not for areas that are stressed hard. Fiberglass has its uses and done right is strong and flexible. Bonding 'glass and steel can be an issue, but its better then pop riveting old stop signs to the rusty floor and calling it fixed.
 
Big John said:
69hemibeep said:
What your doing John will work great like you said no stress points. I can see Chris doing that with rusty, going to the track hammering it and leaving body parts down the quarter mile :lmao:
Click to expand...

Definitely... Its not for areas that are stressed hard. Fiberglass has its uses and done right is strong and flexible. Bonding 'glass and steel can be an issue, but its better then pop riveting old stop signs to the rusty floor and calling it fixed.
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My car would contain more fiberglass than steel and probably more than John's Bricklin! :lol: I was :acme: at myself.
 
moparchris said:
Big John said:
69hemibeep said:
What your doing John will work great like you said no stress points. I can see Chris doing that with rusty, going to the track hammering it and leaving body parts down the quarter mile :lmao:
Click to expand...

Definitely... Its not for areas that are stressed hard. Fiberglass has its uses and done right is strong and flexible. Bonding 'glass and steel can be an issue, but its better then pop riveting old stop signs to the rusty floor and calling it fixed.
Click to expand...

My car would contain more fiberglass than steel and probably more than John's Bricklin! :lol: I was :acme: at myself.
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More sarcasm :acme: :D
 
This is getting interesting. I've been looking at different options for converting the front brakes to disc. There are a couple options, but the brake kit of choice for the earlier Mopars seems to be the favorite. The problem is to fit that to my car, I would have to use early smaller Plymouth spindles and I really don't want to do that.

So... the guy that sells the kit has just come up with a new kit to fit cars like my Chrysler that use the larger spindles. He posted on an early Plymouth/Dodge site that he was looking for someone to get the first kit and try it out. So... I emailed the guy and we worked out a deal for the new kit!

I have to report any mounting issues and take some pics, but its gonna save me some bucks!
 
So now you get to be the Big Guinea Pig instead of the Big Kahuna.... :D

Sounds like a good deal. Hope it goes together smoothly. :thumbsup:

:jester:
 
Big John said:
This is getting interesting. I've been looking at different options for converting the front brakes to disc. There are a couple options, but the brake kit of choice for the earlier Mopars seems to be the favorite. The problem is to fit that to my car, I would have to use early smaller Plymouth spindles and I really don't want to do that.

So... the guy that sells the kit has just come up with a new kit to fit cars like my Chrysler that use the larger spindles. He posted on an early Plymouth/Dodge site that he was looking for someone to get the first kit and try it out. So... I emailed the guy and we worked out a deal for the new kit!

I have to report any mounting issues and take some pics, but its gonna save me some bucks!
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Good deal hope it works out for both of you and no gremlins pop up with the conversion :thumbsup:
 
Sounds like you worked out a good deal for yourself John! :thumbsup: I the installation goes well. One question, who gets to see the pics first, us, or him? :lol:
 
Well... I asked a question about bump steer since the steering arm is being moved toward the inside 3/8" on each side. He's sold about 400 of the earlier Mopar versions and apparently this question never came up.

The design is pretty simple and there seems to be a lot of happy customers. I'm not sure if I'm being too anal or the problem is not noticed (or ignored) by other drivers.
 
Big John said:
Well... I asked a question about bump steer since the steering arm is being moved toward the inside 3/8" on each side. He's sold about 400 of the earlier Mopar versions and apparently this question never came up.

The design is pretty simple and there seems to be a lot of happy customers. I'm not sure if I'm being too anal or the problem is not noticed (or ignored) by other drivers.
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For that kind of thing , you can never be too careful John!
 
Finally got one of my sons here long enough to pick the "dog house" off the front. This came off pretty easy, about a dozen bolts and the front was lose. This will make removal of the engine and trans as a unit much easier. One thing I discovered was the flathead weighs a lot more then a V-8. Hoisting the assembly up high enough to clear the radiator yoke was imtimidating me a bit. This will make it much easier.

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In case you thought only sixties cars got inspection marks.

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The old markings are cool! They sure put allot of steel in those old cars :yesnod:
 
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