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Which Transmission

Russ69Runner

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This is all good info guy's. Sound's like you got a handle on it their jww69rrpost. just to say mine now has 6 leaf rear spring's. Looking to put an sway bar back their also. Very good info this should help a lot of people interested in doing these change's. :thumbsup2:
 

RKNRLR

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The documentation that comes with the unit is very thorough. They have a couple of templates to check spacing, as well as all the info and instructions you need to install, wire up, and adjust driveline angle etc. Havent installed it yet, but I dont imagine they could make it any more straight-forward.
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Russ69Runner

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I am guilty. 5 Lb sledge and a 2x4 was my best friend to get it to fit every where. But now it is painted and rust proofed with bed liner. May be latter when putting in a gear vendor it maybe a little easy to forgive putting dent's in it to fit the vendor in. :lol:
 

jww69rrpost

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Hammer is not necessary. There are two very small areas on the underside of the tunnel that require minor grinding... just enough to slide the components into place. The installation is very straightforward and everything should align up and fit just as described in the instructions... as long as the instructions are followed!! I'll likely just use it as an overdrive system... but will have to play with the other method
 

RKNRLR

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Ill be putting mine in (hopefully) sometime over the next month or so, Ill be sure to take a few pictures during install for ya Russ!
 

jww69rrpost

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The areas that required grinding were only small spots that were of no consequence and of no value for anything regarding supports. They were really only taken down less than 1/32 inch and did not protrude through any sheet metal. There are a lot of lumps and bumps on the underside of the floor pan and tunnel that are nothing more than the result of the original fabrication process (weather original or aftermarket). I ground them down just a tiny bit past the surface, cleaned everything, then filled in the dimples (welded), and finally a final polish grinding to make it smooth and look like it was that way from the get-go. I didn't need to do all that, but then I am a ridicules stickler for detail and making everything clean. Even though I'll likely not ever see that area, but at least I'll know it looks good!!! Like most projects, this one started out to be a six-month project and ended up becoming a five (+) year project... and is still not completely done!!! My last project was a 33 Ford Tudor that also ended up being a six-year project. It was an amazing car and a real "trophy magnet", but finally had to go so I could move on with the Road Runner (wife rule - only one car at a time). This Road Runner will be my final car... a very fitting way to come down the home stretch with a car that looks almost exactly like the Road Runner I had back in 1969 (a daily driver and weekend racer). That Road Runner was an Ivy Green post car with a four-speed and 383, and ran mid 12's after some modifications. Although this Road Runner looks the same, it is significantly modified (well hidden) with a power plant putting out about 700 hp. I expect it to run mid 10's!! I may take it to a track one time just to get a time on it and if it goes into the 10's, I'll not be able to go for another trip down the strip without a roll bar... which is not going to happen.
 

Russ69Runner

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Truly a passion for the car. Thanks for the info. Just to say want to get the car on the road first. Before choosing the over drive option. I am with you when thinking OH this won't take long to restore this old runner. But the deeper you dig the worst it can get. But just like you don't like a half Ass job. Better to do it rite than do it at all. Have done a lot of mechanic work on vehicles and some light body repair. But this is a full on job and will be my last one. That motor sounds like a beast. Was reading up on the 383 stroker conversion. Just something to consider later with another block. Have a good one and post us some pic's of the progress. Russ. :beep:
 
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