Thankshad to find a always hot circuit to feed the box. But also one that turns off when the key turns off. Something like cig lighter etc
Thankshad to find a always hot circuit to feed the box. But also one that turns off when the key turns off. Something like cig lighter etc
ThanksCome off the starter circuit. There is a wire that is only hot when the key is in the "start" position. This will supply power when you start the engine and shut off when you release the key.
Thanks nt friend. I can build race car engines, electronics etc but this has kicked my butt. LolMan, Russ you have had your share of problem's. Looks like you're getting through the most of it. Hope soon you will just be able to turn the key and drive the wheels off it. Good luck.
Are you talking about the electronic ign box?Problem is box needs power at both times. Starting and running. If you don’t have that it either won’t start or won’t keep running.
ThanksMKe sure the electronic box is grounded very good or it will not start. Ask me how I know. We move things around to paint and did not have the box grounded good and it would not fire. Got it grounded good and it fired right up. Good luck.
Oh ok. No I still have the electronic ignition box. I know the msd stuff well with drag racing over 30 years. I might have to switch over. I have a msd 6.My bad, I was thinking you were using something like an msd 6al box
If I am remembering it correctly, you do not have points, I do not think that will work. You have no way to collapse the field and fire the plugs.Can I do a lead wire from positive on the battery to the positive on the coil to see if the car will start to see if the electronic ignition box is bad on the car?
That was wax the petronix I forgot. Your correctIf I am remembering it correctly, you do not have points, I do not think that will work. You have no way to collapse the field and fire the plugs.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_725145 male end.
https://core-electronics.com.au/crimping-tool-0-1-1-0-mm-capacity-16-28-awg.html crimping tool. does not have to be this exact one but needs to be this style.
I've checked the grounds. I've changed the ballast resistor. This thing will run for a while and then it won't start.MKe sure the electronic box is grounded very good or it will not start. Ask me how I know. We move things around to paint and did not have the box grounded good and it would not fire. Got it grounded good and it fired right up. Good luck.
It hasn't ran since last August. Since the engine is turning over it wouldn't be the key ignition right?I've checked the grounds. I've changed the ballast resistor. This thing will run for a while and then it won't start.
I don't know if this is your issue but I had a 68 Coronet that would not restart when warm. It turned out to be the coil.I've checked the grounds. I've changed the ballast resistor. This thing will run for a while and then it won't start.
Thanks I will do that. It's getting fuel. I replaced the coil.Are you sure you're getting fuel? Do you have a starter button that you can use outside the car? Easy enough to make one from a push button starter switch you get at the auto parts store. Check to see if you get fire from your coil to a ground on the motor. Then check all the plug wires. Then if you don't have spark start back tracking and see where you lost power.
I changed the coil.I don't know if this is your issue but I had a 68 Coronet that would not restart when warm. It turned out to be the coil.