voltage reg question

[moparstuart]

 

[ACME A12]

I'm going to have to address this as well. Bambi is having some charging issues...and has the MoPar Electonic Ignition Conversion already. I'd also like to make the switch to the later model, higher amp alternator as well, but don't trust the wiring or the bulkhead connector to handle the increased juice - especially with the stock routing through the bulkhead and ammeter and then back under the hood as my underdash wiring is a nightmare. I'll probably wait to do that until I tear the car apart and put it back together as I'll then bite the bullet and get a new underdash harness since the original one is hacked to pieces and I just want to start afresh. I'll add the IVR upgrade at that time too.

Think I'll grab a VR706 today and see if that helps. Thanks for the info, Big.

 

[Big John]

Is the VR706 a constant output regulator? What I have now is the little silver regulator like the one in Stuart's photo.

Yes, it is. The VR706 is an electronic regulator. It provides a constant output voltage rather then the off and on voltage of the points type ignition. If you have the small regulator like Stuart's, you already have an electronic regulator.

this is one a friend gave me that is old and used to take to auto zone but they couldnt find me one
Notice it looks like the stock one only not as tall and thick

I bought mine online from Autozone because the local store would have to order it anyway. Go to the autozone web site and order there.

 

[69hemibeep]

Is the VR706 a constant output regulator? What I have now is the little silver regulator like the one in Stuart's photo.

Yes, it is. The VR706 is an electronic regulator. It provides a constant output voltage rather then the off and on voltage of the points type ignition. If you have the small regulator like Stuart's, you already have an electronic regulator.

this is one a friend gave me that is old and used to take to auto zone but they couldnt find me one
Notice it looks like the stock one only not as tall and thick

I bought mine online from Autozone because the local store would have to order it anyway. Go to the autozone web site and order there.

Autozone had it in stock when I needed one

 

[Big John]

Gonna get on my soapbox here. :soap:

Probably the best and easiest upgrade is going to the VR706 or similar electronic regulator. It does everything that the later (70 and up) regulator will do, providing constant voltage to charge the battery. The only thing it doesn't do is let you run the 70 and up so called "dual field" alternator without a jumper wire to ground on the alternator. The later alternator doesn't do anything for you.

The next easiest upgrade to do is to connect a jumper from the alternator output terminal to the battery terminal on the starter relay. There's an Ehrenberg article that suggests using a fusible link from a Ford in that jumper and I think that's a great idea. He also suggested running a jumper through the firewall bulkhead directly to the ammeter. Keep in mind that by adding the starter relay jumper, your ammeter is pretty much worthless as it no longer measures all the current draw. IMHO, its pretty much worthless anyway and a voltmeter will tell you much more about what's going on.

IMHO, there's a lot of misinformation out there about Mopar charging systems. First one is the so called "upgrade" to 70 and later alternators and regulators. It doesn't do anything for you except empty your wallet and lose the OE appearance. An aftermarket regulator does everything an "upgrade" does at a small fraction of the price. Next is that you "need" to have more charging amperage. Think about it. Your old Mopar doesn't have al the current drawing electronics that a late model does. It doesn't have the current sucking rear window heater for one. Does it have A/C? Probably not. Big stereo amp driving big thumping subs? Nope.

So... all you are left with is a charging system that needs to do what it is designed to. Maintain the charge in the battery. Anything more then you need is simply harder for the belts to drive (read horsepower drain) and does nothing to help you... In fact it may be too much for your existing wiring! More is not better.

 

[ArcDevilz]

John will the VR706 work with a Pertronix ignitor? I should have just bought the Mopar distributor and electronic ignition kit instead. I recently put the Pertronix in and last night while out for a drive the headlights where super dim. Charging system took a crap. Not sure if it's the voltage regulator or the alternator. I will be checking in a few hours. Just wondering though if I should switch from the old voltage regulator to the VR706 ....

 

[Big John]

John will the VR706 work with a Pertronix ignitor? I should have just bought the Mopar distributor and electronic ignition kit instead. I recently put the Pertronix in and last night while out for a drive the headlights where super dim. Charging system took a crap. Not sure if it's the voltage regulator or the alternator. I will be checking in a few hours. Just wondering though if I should switch from the old voltage regulator to the VR706 ....

Yep, the regulator will work with any ignition system.

You can check regulator operation by using a jumper wire to bypass the regulator. Look on page 2 of the diagnosis manual here: http://www.69roadrunner.net/Tech Reference/charging.pdf

 

[ArcDevilz]

Found this on Fleabay. Just wondering if anyone has experience with it. It seems to be an OEM replica with solid state internals. it's 25.00 with free shipping. the one at Autozone list for 26.99
....
Oh by the way the alternator is not charging . It read 8.6 volts. Time for a rebuild. :rimshot:

 

[moparstuart]

anyone else have problems with the blue one from mopar , ???? not to mention its really ugly and non stock looking ??????

 

[Big John]

anyone else have problems with the blue one from mopar , ???? not to mention its really ugly and non stock looking ??????

I remember reading that the blue regulator was a race only piece. I'll bet it doesn't dissipate heat well since its components are potted.

 

[moparstuart]

anyone else have problems with the blue one from mopar , ???? not to mention its really ugly and non stock looking ??????

I remember reading that the blue regulator was a race only piece. I'll bet it doesn't dissipate heat well since its components are potted.

I see alot of them on the street so i would guess i'm not the only that has this problem , mopar just sold it to me as a great upgrade , no warnings of race only .. I have now read alot about it yes being race only .

 

[ACME A12]

Next is that you "need" to have more charging amperage. Think about it. Your old Mopar doesn't have al the current drawing electronics that a late model does. It doesn't have the current sucking rear window heater for one. Does it have A/C? Probably not. Big stereo amp driving big thumping subs? Nope.

So... all you are left with is a charging system that needs to do what it is designed to. Maintain the charge in the battery. Anything more then you need is simply harder for the belts to drive (read horsepower drain) and does nothing to help you... In fact it may be too much for your existing wiring! More is not better.

All very good points, Big. Makes even more sense with my car specifically; hell, I don't even have a freakin' radio, much less any other high draw components. I went and got a VR706 and installed it earlier today; I'm sure my ignition system will at least be much happier now.

 

[zupanj]

My local Autozone didn't have the VR706 so I ordered it online. I hope it was the regulator but if not I will find a shop somewhere in the nieghborhood.

 

[ArcDevilz]

So I was puzzled as to why the charging system on my car was not working. I decided to take another stab at it. I took the voltage regulator apart and noticed it was the same exact solid state one on Ebay. I started to check the wires and found that the green wire from the voltage regulator to the alternator was not passing a continuity test. I took it apart cleaned and crimped the wire and the car fired right up with the headlights brighter than ever. There still seems to be an issue with the voltage slightly fluctuating when I hit the flashers. I also noticed that the voltage at the coming out of the alternator is not matching the battery terminal. I guess I have some more gremlins to hunt in the morning.

 

[69hemibeep]

So I was puzzled as to why the charging system on my car was not working. I decided to take another stab at it. I took the voltage regulator apart and noticed it was the same exact solid state one on Ebay. I started to check the wires and found that the green wire from the voltage regulator to the alternator was not passing a continuity test. I took it apart cleaned and crimped the wire and the car fired right up with the headlights brighter than ever. There still seems to be an issue with the voltage slightly fluctuating when I hit the flashers. I also noticed that the voltage at the coming out of the alternator is not matching the battery terminal. I guess I have some more gremlins to hunt in the morning.

That's a normal condition on these things, don't hurt yourself looking for it, unless you have a high amp Alt on it. Mine tested at 56 amps 13.6 volts and still does that and it originally had 37amps from the factory :cheers:

 

[moparstuart]

So I was puzzled as to why the charging system on my car was not working. I decided to take another stab at it. I took the voltage regulator apart and noticed it was the same exact solid state one on Ebay. I started to check the wires and found that the green wire from the voltage regulator to the alternator was not passing a continuity test. I took it apart cleaned and crimped the wire and the car fired right up with the headlights brighter than ever. There still seems to be an issue with the voltage slightly fluctuating when I hit the flashers. I also noticed that the voltage at the coming out of the alternator is not matching the battery terminal. I guess I have some more gremlins to hunt in the morning.

That's a normal condition on these things, don't hurt yourself looking for it, unless you have a high amp Alt on it. Mine tested at 56 amps 13.6 volts and still does that and it originally had 37amps from the factory :cheers:

I agree your car sounds normal

 

[mac]

i found this and thought i would add it to this discussion.

http://www.davesmopar.com/techreg.htm

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Some of the best money I have spent on any of my Mopars is the Year One harness with the electronic ign wiring, the late model VR (which I think is more reliable), and has OEM hookups for a dual field, eliminating the need to make a ground wire.

I run an 8 gauge wire from the alt to the starter relay, with a 12 gauge fusible link.

I bypass the amp gauge and run the volt meter.

I also make a dedicated ground for the ECU box and VR.

 

[John69RR]

Several years ago I had the blue "race only" regulator. It did OK around town for local cruises etc... After driving the car from Houston to Cleveland, about 1400 miles, I needed to add almost 2 cups of water to the battery. Apparently the constant voltage boiled out the water. The amp gauge never did indicate an overcharging condition. I travelled with the headlights on so a slight charge was always present. While in Cleveland I replaced it with an old points style regulator for the trip home and kept the blue one as a spare. No excessive water loss on the way back home. I have since "converted" the VR706 to look like the circa 69 regulator. Have not had the car out yet to check things out.

 

[A31PKG]

Found this on Fleabay. Just wondering if anyone has experience with it. It seems to be an OEM replica with solid state internals. it's 25.00 with free shipping. the one at Autozone list for 26.99
....
Oh by the way the alternator is not charging . It read 8.6 volts. Time for a rebuild. :rimshot:

This is the exact one I'm using...I swapped the cover with my restored original - I posted some pics on my "engine compartment resto" thread in the Projects section...I actually installed it a year or two ago, and it's been perfect...