torsion rod adjustment

[Larry Chilese]

Rebuilding entire front steering components, steering gear, all tie rods all ball joints as well as drum brakes-got all fit and installed. Car is on jacks-as I begin to tighten up torsion rod bolts the steering gets progressively harder and harder to turn. I have not adjusted the replaced cam bolts on the upper "A" arm and suspect that might be the problem-any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[dmartin]

I don’t think that the torsion bars have anything to do with the steering, I mean I could be wrong

 

[1968 man]

Alignment shop and set the ride height to factory specs. And you will probably be happy. That’s what I done when I built my front end. Very happy with the rake on factory settings.

 

[Larry Chilese]

see you're the smart one-I'm using mirrors and strings, dumb a-- me, just enough to get it to an alignment shop though. The entire front end was in need of everything from steering box, steering column to ball joints and tie rods. Couple hours a night turns it into a couple month job.
Simply Gorgeous photo, mine is a TT1 paint code-a Misty Green. I decided to save the fenders which were a mess-I can do lead work so that's where I am with the body. My friends brand new superbee just as he was getting out of a job for Uncle Sam.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Use a piece of wood with nails and a bullet level on the rotor cap's. An old guy set my car's up that way. with the wood and nails you can check the back of the tires then the front. Bullet level check caster and chamber. Torsion bar adjustment is in the manual's here. It also tells you the front end set up. The book is really handy. Good luck. Like that supper bee. I used solider from Eastwood rather than led it worked grate for me on the A pillars where they come together at the upper cowl.

 

[Larry Chilese]

I didn't think the torsion rods affected steering either but when I spin them up the steering gets harder and harder to move, so something is happening I don't understand yet. I have the car off the ground and that may have an affect. Something is compressing or twisting the control arms and putting a load on the upper and lower ball joints. It took off all the tie rod components nothing there. I did have the drivers torsion bar out to remove and install the steering gear. Evil Spirits and a poor mechanic.

 

[Russ69Runner]

I don't have the motor in my runner yet. So had not adjusted the torsion bar's up yet. Had to move the steering box shaft back and forth with a wrench to count the turns. Tore the boot on the ball joint on both sides. Wonder if you have a strain on them the same way with the torsion bars adjusted up too high. Their is not a lot of clearance. Might check the Idler arm. Mine was shot and replaced it. That could be a problem also.

 

[Larry Chilese]

Good suggestion-I did replace the Idler Arm-one thing I learned w/ the replacement parts it that they are dimensionally different from Stock-the new Idler arm was shorter and needed shimmed the steering knuckles were thicker than stock so the castle nut slots weren't deep enough I had to mill the slots deeper. I noticed today that the new Idler Arm put the Center Link tight up against the oil pan on the passenger side-could be my problem. So tight I could not slip a piece of paper between the two. The Pitman arm I got w/ my new steering box has a different angle than stock also-new one is on the left in the photo. I'm going to heat and bend the old Idler arm to see if I can gain some clearance. I'll post a photo tomorrow. I think there is enough adjustment to align things up properly-its just the new parts change the Geometry.

 

[Russ69Runner]

I believe those are cast. May have a problem trying to bend it. Just my 2 cent's. Got all my stuff from summit and it was all the same. If it did not match what I had did not want to use it. One thing throw's every other part off. The only thing that is different is the lower control arm's. The ones I got are adjustable. Matched the adjustment to the old one's on length. Hope it work's out and yes if it cant clear the oil pan then that is your problem. Darn sorry to here that. Good luck and figure you will get it working rite. Know you want to get in it and drive the car.

 

[Larry Chilese]

You are right-it is cast-so bending is not the answer but I need to increase its length to drop it below the oil pan to gain clearance, which I believe is my problem: Center Link Binding on the oil pan.
But I can Cut the arm and weld in an extension- 1/2" would do it. I have an old buzz box and some nickel steel rod-
Or I could weld an extension on the Idler arms tapered arm.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Just to think of safety would order the rite one and be done with it. Cast is a hard thing to weld. That dose have to be strong. I welded up my bell housing that had a crack at the top but used a tig machine and easy rod. Have welded exhaust manifold's but not an arm. That would be a an if E thing to me. Better to be safe than sorry. Good luck and let me know how it comes out.

 

[Larry Chilese]

Russ per your suggestion gave me an idea, I think I'll take the new parts out, idler and pitman and replace them with the old parts to check to see what difference that makes-that should tell me which part changed my geometry and try to find an identical replacement.

 

[dmartin]

Well Larry it maybe that that piece might be like some of the things we all have bought for those runners that doesn’t fit, just find a empty space on the wall and hang it and it’ll be a nice conversation piece

 

[Larry Chilese]

im 71, I had so many parts on the wall I started taking them to Greaserama in Platte City Mo-got a canopy from the Chinese and been selling them, more like giving them away.
but you get to meet a lot of wonderful folks.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Tried to find out where I got mine but have cleaned up all the boxes. Summit is where I ordered mine form and they looked the same in every way. So hope when I put my motor in don't have that problem either. If it don't match what I have in my hand get rite on the phone and get the rite part to replace it. Hope you get the problem solved soon so you can enjoy your car. Rather drive it than work on it.

 

[Larry Chilese]

Russ, I'm going to follow your advice and order from Summit. I put the old pitman arm in and Whala clearance issue solved. The new Pitman arm was causing all my problems, never was the torsion bar. It was a New Pitman arm supposed to fit my 68 Runner and match my new steering gear-it had just enough Geometry change to cause problems with the Center Link to bind on the oil pan binding up the steering.
Photo shows bind. Nice thing about these forums is there is enough advice, right, wron g or indifferent to get you looking closer and understanding more. I am very grateful. 2nd photo show clearance under pan with orig pitman arm

 

[Russ69Runner]

You really have to be on your toes with ordering part's. One thing can throw every thing else off. Glad you found the problem. It is hard to help not being their in person to look at what is going on. I feel you are going to be a lot safer with the rite part. That is what worries me ordering off like E bay. Well let is know when you get her in and how it work's. Good luck Larry and happy 4th.

 

[Big Mo]

Russ per your suggestion gave me an idea, I think I'll take the new parts out, idler and pitman and replace them with the old parts to check to see what difference that makes-that should tell me which part changed my geometry and try to find an identical replacement.

Larry Big Mo here, we just replaced my friends front end and he replaced all parts except the control arm with Moog parts and it all went together fine. He used tube upper control arms but other than that it's stock. Big Mo.