Things to look for....

[SublimeRunner]

Admittedly I have always been a ford guy... But recently caught the bug to restore a Roadrunner... A car I have always been very fond of. I am ignorant to Mopar in general. What are some things I should be looking for specific to the 1969 Roadrunner so that I do not make a massive mistake or bite off more than I can chew so to speak.

I am negotiating with a guy for a 1969 Roadrunner with a 383 and 4 speed transmission. Clean title and to me the car seems to be in decent shape considering it hasn't been driven in years. He says he used to occasionally start it up but he also says needs a new wiring harness so... Who knows.

It's been under his house (beach style) for 15+ years. Not completely out of the elements but covered Atleast. I negotiated a price that I am more than comfortable to pay provided I am not missing anything to crazy... I will be going to look at it again next week and will get more pics. My paint and body guy said it sounds like a great deal but he hasn't seen it either in person. Appears to have limited rust and all of the interior seems to be accounted for..

I have 2 crappy pics that I'll upload shortly. Having a hard time from my phone.

Any advice?

 

[SublimeRunner]

Here are the 2 pics I have... I am going to go back tomorrow and get some more.

 

[Basketcase]

check the numbers on the vin tag on the dash. there will be a metal fender tag on the driver's inner fender, by the battery. the vin number will be there, as well as on the radiator support, and under the weatherstrip rubber on the driver's side trunk rail.these should all match.
these things like to rot at the bottom of the back window, which leads to trunk floor rot. the floorboards, usually the drivers side the worst. mice love to build nests inside the frames, as well as being a catch all for dirt, sand,etc, so check all the frames for rot.there are a lot of repo parts avalible for the mopars these days, just depends on how big your check book is.
good luck!

 

[mac]

make sure the vin is for a road runner. don't see any emblems on the door. vin should start with RM23H9

 

[droptop]

Post car, should be RM21H9

 

[quikbird]

other extras this car will probably need are a new fuel tank and lines. existing probably full of corrosion, looks like right side rear quarter panel, check trunk extensions behind quarter panels, look hard at frame rails, as basket said, trunk floor. check trunk lid carefully. this is one piece not currently reproduced, hopefully that was hood behind it.

 

[69hemibeep]

Beach house as in ocean? Should be pretty much rodent free but rust might be an issue so check the body out and unibody frame rails. Are they claiming numbers matching to raies the price or is this not an issue.

 

[SublimeRunner]

Beach house as in ocean? Should be pretty much rodent free but rust might be an issue so check the body out and unibody frame rails. Are they claiming numbers matching to raies the price or is this not an issue.

This guy is an old neighbor.. lives in a flood zone so house is built up beach style but I am about 30 miles from Galveston. Im about to post some more pics. He isnt even home until September 23rd so I am trespassing with his permission lol to take these pics.

 

[SublimeRunner]

Here are more pics... the undercarriage of the car seems FAIRLY rust free. I know these pics suck but I didnt see anything that looked rotten. Everything has surface rust but didnt look to be destroyed or even have any rust pits in it.

 

[SublimeRunner]

All interior is present... hes got his shit everywhere. lol I didnt want to be THAT intrusive to remove it all but I definitely will before I buy it lol.

 

[SublimeRunner]

Now let me ask you all a question... based on the pictures you have seen and what you know about the car and the fact that it is a verified RR... I checked the VIN this morning. How much is a car like this worth in present condition?

 

[Basketcase]

I hope that seat is supposed to be black.......if not yuk!
looks fairly complete. I'd say by your pics plan on a pair of quarter skins, maybe a trunk floor. how do the floors look?
looks like the steering box and part of the column is missing, along with the radiator and exhaust manifolds.are these (and any other MIA parts present, and whey were they taken off? what engine is that? free or stuck? auto or four speed?
I'd say $2500-$3500 as it sits.

 

[SublimeRunner]

I hope that seat is supposed to be black.......if not yuk!
looks fairly complete. I'd say by your pics plan on a pair of quarter skins, maybe a trunk floor. how do the floors look?
looks like the steering box and part of the column is missing, along with the radiator and exhaust manifolds.are these (and any other MIA parts present, and whey were they taken off? what engine is that? free or stuck? auto or four speed?
I'd say $2500-$3500 as it sits.

The guy swears up and down its a running motor... said it hasnt been very long since he last started it, but hes missing the wiring harness lol so I am skeptical. It is a 4 speed.

I got on my back and looked underneath.. its seems in very good shape.

The motor is a 383. I plan to get it out from under the house and get the trunk open, clean it up a bit and have a better idea of what I am working with.

 

[Basketcase]

well I'd base any offer on the motor not running until he has it going in front of you.
Year One has new wire harnesses. plenty of available parts, but they do cost.

 

[SublimeRunner]

well I'd base any offer on the motor not running until he has it going in front of you.
Year One has new wire harnesses. plenty of available parts, but they do cost.

A Ford budget I know... a Mopar budget I am having more trouble with.

TBH I have about 17k.. I allotted $3500 for the car and about $7,000 worth of paint and body so that leaves me about $6500. Worth it or not?

 

[SublimeRunner]

And I know that is a ridiculously broad spectrum.. but am I delusional? lol

 

[Basketcase]

here's a '68 on the bay. rough, wrong engine, needs interior, complete quarters, floors, and a lot of love and $$, but would give you an idea what to look for as far as rust. gauge yours against this one. But this ;68 is ahead of the game since it has Cragars!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Ro...29e38341:g:bhAAAOSwPRlXm~Bb&item=391544800065

$7995 OR best offer.

 

[Basketcase]

well it sounds like you know enough about old cars to know you'll always put out more $$ than you think or want. a lot of it depends on how nice you want the car to be. I know of several very nice cars in my area that never come out of the garage.my painter came down with COPD a couple years ago and could finish mine. add a daughter in collage, other real life crap, and here I am. but I can drive mine, and do. and...you don't have to do the car all at once. I never wanted a show poodle, so I never wanted a "too nice to drive" car. That car, aside from the interior, looks like you just need to go over the mechanicals, get it running and driving safely. Get some interior in it, and drive it as is while you work on it. do the heavy stuff over the winter.helps to keep things motivated when they're not sitting in a million pieces gathering dust in the garage for 20 years.

 

[SublimeRunner]

Thanks for your advice and insight... I completely agree with you. I want a daily driver capable car. I have no desire for a show pony. That doesn't mean I don't eventually want a clean, straight body but I want to rag the damn thing out too. Lol

 

[69hemibeep]

Without looking in the trunk it is a crap shoot but as high on the rear window that the rust hole is I'm going to guess you are going well over 7000 on body and paint unless you do the work.