Hoosier Bird said:
What did you end up with for clearances? Just curious...
:jester:
ACME
The 383 Block
- Thread starter Hoosier Bird
- Start date
What did you end up with for clearances? Just curious...
:jester:
ACME
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
ACME A12 said:
What did you end up with for clearances? Just curious...
:jester:
ACME[/quote:1augf510]
Pretty much .002 clearance on all the mains and .007 (endplay) clearance on the thrust bearing.
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
I wasn't sure if I told you guys but I opted to go with the 292 cam. That changed a few things. I'll keep you posted. 
Hoosier Bird said:I wasn't sure if I told you guys but I opted to go with the 292 cam. That changed a few things. I'll keep you posted.
Couldn't live without that rumpity-rump idle, huh...???
I know THAT story...
Give us the details when you get a chance...
:jester:
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
Well, until I get my mandrel for honing the small end of the rod, I can't calculate too much out. I need to know what the exact deck height to piston is. I'm hoping the reason the dowels are gone is because they decked the block, otherwise looks like I may have to go with a shim style head gasket to put me where I need to be. I'll definately keep you guys posted. If it all works out that will be great and anyone else could do the same, If it goes bad at least everyone will know what not to do..........
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Hoosier Bird said:I wasn't sure if I told you guys but I opted to go with the 292 cam. That changed a few things. I'll keep you posted.
The MP 509 cam? If so, which version did you get - the "improved street drivability" one or the regular one?
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
Comp Cam Magnum 292.......mcmopar said:Hoosier Bird said:I wasn't sure if I told you guys but I opted to go with the 292 cam. That changed a few things. I'll keep you posted.
The MP 509 cam? If so, which version did you get - the "improved street drivability" one or the regular one?
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=702&sb=2
http://www.compcams.com/Base/MultiMedia/SoundBytes/CompCams292.mp3
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
That's gonna be a lot of cam on the street. I hope you have some 3.91 gears or better because its gonna be soft in the low rpm range. An Edelbrock Performer RPM intake will help make up for some of the lack of low end torque as well.
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
I'll keep you posted. I had the same cam in a 350 in my 57 and didn't have any troubles with it. It ran strong. We shall see...............
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Here is what mine sounds like with the Comp XE275HL-10. Its been posted before but maybe the new guys will get a kick out of it, too.
The car is equipped with TTI chrome 1-7/8" headers, full 3" TTI exhaust system with "H" pipe, and Magnaflow 3" stainless steel mufflers.
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g271/mcmopar/My 69 Road Runner/?action=view¤t=Movie.flv
The car is equipped with TTI chrome 1-7/8" headers, full 3" TTI exhaust system with "H" pipe, and Magnaflow 3" stainless steel mufflers.
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g271/mcmopar/My 69 Road Runner/?action=view¤t=Movie.flv
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
Right now it has 3.55 gears, but that is easy enough to change. I think I may just change the entire carrier and keep this one for cruising. How is that 850 coming? :cheers:mcmopar said:
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Still needs some tweaking. I think it needs a new accel pump cam. Its very touchy in stop and go driving and not smooth at cruise yet. I may have to go up on my jet size from 75 to 76 or 77. It's also more raspy with only the two idle mixture screws vs. the 750's 4 corner idle setup. I have the 750 back on there right now and its running great as always. Still a little rich at idle but that seems to be the nature of the beast.
You definitely want to keep that 3.55 SG pumpkin. I sold my 3.23 SG and my 3.23 open diffs. The 3.23's were a bit too soft down low for my setup. The 3.55's are perfect for low end city driving and highway cruising. I can lug it around town at 30 mph in 4th gear with no problem and it loves to go, go, go on the open road. :banana: The more gas you give it the happier it is (and me too! ).
BTW have you bought the cam yet? Because if not I'd recommend the Comp XE285HL-10. At 241-247 with a 110 deg lobe separation and .545" lift it should be a better choice. My bud moparmoose3 (Jerry) has this cam in his 440 and it is downright MEAN. When Mopar Muscle did their 383 build they picked up 50 hp over the stock HP cam with this one. The only reason I opted for the XE275HL-10 (231-237-110 w/.525" lift) was due to the fact that I have a/c and PDB and wanted a little more vacuum. Turns out it isn't that much more - oh well.
Still a little rich at idle but that seems to be the nature of the beast.You definitely want to keep that 3.55 SG pumpkin. I sold my 3.23 SG and my 3.23 open diffs. The 3.23's were a bit too soft down low for my setup. The 3.55's are perfect for low end city driving and highway cruising. I can lug it around town at 30 mph in 4th gear with no problem and it loves to go, go, go on the open road. :banana: The more gas you give it the happier it is (and me too!
).BTW have you bought the cam yet? Because if not I'd recommend the Comp XE285HL-10. At 241-247 with a 110 deg lobe separation and .545" lift it should be a better choice. My bud moparmoose3 (Jerry) has this cam in his 440 and it is downright MEAN. When Mopar Muscle did their 383 build they picked up 50 hp over the stock HP cam with this one. The only reason I opted for the XE275HL-10 (231-237-110 w/.525" lift) was due to the fact that I have a/c and PDB and wanted a little more vacuum. Turns out it isn't that much more - oh well.
The 292 was already in his car when he bought it...IIRC...
:jester:
:jester:
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Ah - well there is much to be said for "running what you brung". No sense in wasting $$$ on a new valvetrain when the one you have is quite capable :drive:
I've spoken with Comp about putting solid lifters on my cam and they said it would be no problem - I'd just need a new set of pushrods. I used to tease one of the young guys in our youth group that I was going to put solids in the motor, go with the 850 double pumper Holley, a set of 4.30 gears and 11" slicks to counter his turbo'd Hyundai, and after he sold that, his 5.0 'Stang. He finally saw the light and sold the 'Stang, too. He just didn't have the $$$ to keep playing the game.
I've spoken with Comp about putting solid lifters on my cam and they said it would be no problem - I'd just need a new set of pushrods. I used to tease one of the young guys in our youth group that I was going to put solids in the motor, go with the 850 double pumper Holley, a set of 4.30 gears and 11" slicks to counter his turbo'd Hyundai, and after he sold that, his 5.0 'Stang. He finally saw the light and sold the 'Stang, too. He just didn't have the $$$ to keep playing the game.
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
Didn't buy the cam, I already had it. I mic'd it out to make sure it was good and I'm going to put new lifters in it. The other cam I have has 312 duration on the intake side and I just can't get there with this set of heads. If all my calculations are right this should be one mean setup. I can't wait.........I really enjoy doing this type of work, so if I don't like the outcome, I'll just change it.......... I've got another little project I'm getting ready to launch. It's a 5.7 Hemi with a distributor, single plugs, new valve covers and runs on with a carb. Looks like a 426 only scaled down. I think I can sell several to street rodders. We will be starting the machine work in about 8 weeks. :banana:
I've got another little project I'm getting ready to launch. It's a 5.7 Hemi with a distributor, single plugs, new valve covers and runs on with a carb. Looks like a 426 only scaled down. I think I can sell several to street rodders. We will be starting the machine work in about 8 weeks. :banana:mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Hoosier Bird said:
I would quite agree! I think your right foot is going to have some fun! :cheers: :drive:
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
Got my arbor today, but I'm stuck in the house designing packaging tooling for Enzyte.........Those of you that NEED a sample let me know........... Give me your phone# and I'll just let your wives decide if you NEED it or not....... :lmao: :lmao: :jester:
Give me your phone# and I'll just let your wives decide if you NEED it or not....... :lmao: :lmao: :jester:mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Hoosier Bird said:Got my arbor today, but I'm stuck in the house designing packaging tooling for Enzyte.........Those of you that NEED a sample let me know...........
Those commercials of theirs with the wood grain panels really crack me up...
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
Got the rods all honed today......Here's some pics........ .0008-.001 clearance between small end of rod and wrist pin........
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
OK, there is a lot of different opinions about bushing the small end of the rod, so here is my input.
1. 302 Chevy engines had no bushing and they were kick butt engines.
2. If you bore the hole out you are weakening it because you are putting material back in that is far inferior as far as strength.
3. Bushings are used to correct dimensions from big end to small end.
4. If the steel on steel galls then what do you have? Pressed pin instead of full floating. Big Deal.
What do you guys think?
1. 302 Chevy engines had no bushing and they were kick butt engines.
2. If you bore the hole out you are weakening it because you are putting material back in that is far inferior as far as strength.
3. Bushings are used to correct dimensions from big end to small end.
4. If the steel on steel galls then what do you have? Pressed pin instead of full floating. Big Deal.
What do you guys think?