Mike D
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I’m running stock BB radiator at 200 degrees. Would an aluminum radiator run any cooler?
Stock radiator or aluminum?
- Thread starter Mike D
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quikbird
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Possibly, see if can increase airflow first is my suggestion
Mike D
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Ok thank you
69hemibeep
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The old copper brass work the best and can be cleaned. As for cost you can get into an aluminum pretty cheap but they are a throw away radiator if they plug up.
Mike D
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Thank you. Sweet ride you’ve got
Mike D
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Is 200 degrees ok this is my first big block motor. It hits 200 and stays there and runs fine.
69hemibeep
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If it doesn't continue to creep up I wouldn't worry about it but I would be still be curious and compare the gauge to a temp gun. Oh and thank you.
bigmanjbmopar
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If its any comparison/help at all,
I run a 26" 2 rows of 1" tubes aluminum ECP radiator with 2 - 12" electric fans on a thermostat set to 190 with a shroud and run on triple digit days 190-210 with normal driving I have no AC so not going to be out in triple digits for very long anyway. Now if I beat on the engine on and off it will rise up to 230 but when I back off and get wind in its sails(air through the fins) its cools back down but will hover at 190-210 in summer. In the Fall & Winter I get to 180 and it pretty much stays there the whole day The fans come on and stay on but don't do anything if I'm on the highway so I have relief holes in my shroud to let high velocity air pass through and cool down the fins and engine bay. in traffic the fans work well if I'm just cruising, but in stop and go traffic I noticed if I pull up to a car in front of me too close I'm just pulling in their hot exhaust air through the radiator and the temps will creep up pretty quickly so I try to remember to give my self a cars length plus. The fans also work well when I stop and shut if off it only takes about 5-10 min for the temps to cool back down to below 180. If it gets to 230 I just pull over and sit for 5 mins and let the fans do their thing.
I tried the all original set up but my engine is a stroked 440 to 493 with aluminum heads and intake 1" heat dissipating spacer under the carb so the OEM set up with the stock 3 row 3/4" copper tube and clutch fan just couldn't do the job, the stock set up works great on my stock 383 in my Cuda though and it currently has the wrong radiator although its 26" its from a C body and the shroud is for an E body so there is a gap at the top still runs cool with a 180 t-stat never goes past 220.
Running an Aluminum radiator has been a learning experience many trial and error events. at the end of the day this is what has worked for me and continues to do so. Bare in mind I had to find the sweet spot in the timing and A/F mix to help keep the temps down I think this gets over looked too often.
1. 26" 2 row 1 " tubes aluminum ECP radiator (1-1/4" tubes would be even better)
2. twin electric 12" fans these fans pull in 2500-4000 CFM when running (don't ever use pusher fans unless its a small one on a aux cooler - it will block air flow)
3. Shroud for the fans
4. Aluminum water pump housing not using my heater so the inlet and out let for the heater hoses are plugged off.
5. FlowKooler water pump - One of the best investments / upgrades you can get even for a stock engine, its impellers are bigger and its designed to run at full flow at idle which helps cool things down fast if the temps get up there.
6. 180° Mr Gasket high flow t-stat works really well very consistent and reliable tried 160 and 195 no Bueno 180 is the way to go for my set up.
7. Zerex G05 pre mix coolant and toss in some royal purple ice twice a year. Don't ask me why this combo works but it does and my 493 likes it keeps the pressure down too rarely ever see any over flow in the catch can.
Sorry for the long winded post - at home sick today and saw the OP and want to give my 2 cents.
I run a 26" 2 rows of 1" tubes aluminum ECP radiator with 2 - 12" electric fans on a thermostat set to 190 with a shroud and run on triple digit days 190-210 with normal driving I have no AC so not going to be out in triple digits for very long anyway. Now if I beat on the engine on and off it will rise up to 230 but when I back off and get wind in its sails(air through the fins) its cools back down but will hover at 190-210 in summer. In the Fall & Winter I get to 180 and it pretty much stays there the whole day The fans come on and stay on but don't do anything if I'm on the highway so I have relief holes in my shroud to let high velocity air pass through and cool down the fins and engine bay. in traffic the fans work well if I'm just cruising, but in stop and go traffic I noticed if I pull up to a car in front of me too close I'm just pulling in their hot exhaust air through the radiator and the temps will creep up pretty quickly so I try to remember to give my self a cars length plus. The fans also work well when I stop and shut if off it only takes about 5-10 min for the temps to cool back down to below 180. If it gets to 230 I just pull over and sit for 5 mins and let the fans do their thing.
I tried the all original set up but my engine is a stroked 440 to 493 with aluminum heads and intake 1" heat dissipating spacer under the carb so the OEM set up with the stock 3 row 3/4" copper tube and clutch fan just couldn't do the job, the stock set up works great on my stock 383 in my Cuda though and it currently has the wrong radiator although its 26" its from a C body and the shroud is for an E body so there is a gap at the top still runs cool with a 180 t-stat never goes past 220.
Running an Aluminum radiator has been a learning experience many trial and error events. at the end of the day this is what has worked for me and continues to do so. Bare in mind I had to find the sweet spot in the timing and A/F mix to help keep the temps down I think this gets over looked too often.
1. 26" 2 row 1 " tubes aluminum ECP radiator (1-1/4" tubes would be even better)
2. twin electric 12" fans these fans pull in 2500-4000 CFM when running (don't ever use pusher fans unless its a small one on a aux cooler - it will block air flow)
3. Shroud for the fans
4. Aluminum water pump housing not using my heater so the inlet and out let for the heater hoses are plugged off.
5. FlowKooler water pump - One of the best investments / upgrades you can get even for a stock engine, its impellers are bigger and its designed to run at full flow at idle which helps cool things down fast if the temps get up there.
6. 180° Mr Gasket high flow t-stat works really well very consistent and reliable tried 160 and 195 no Bueno 180 is the way to go for my set up.
7. Zerex G05 pre mix coolant and toss in some royal purple ice twice a year. Don't ask me why this combo works but it does and my 493 likes it keeps the pressure down too rarely ever see any over flow in the catch can.
Sorry for the long winded post - at home sick today and saw the OP and want to give my 2 cents.
Thanks for the idea of trying royal purple ice I will have to get some and see what it does. I recently installed 26" 2 row 1 " tubes aluminum ECP radiator. I had a 054 3 row that was leaking and it was time to try one of these to see if it would cool better. I to have a aluminum water pump housing with the heater hoses plugged off with a 160° Mr Gasket high flow t-stat I had a Mr Gasket high flow 180 in it before. I still run the fan clutch and 7 blade fan but have not driven it much yet with this new setup.
JoeMish
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It depends what thermostat you have in it. Not all gauges are accurate.
JoeMish
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The original system works just fine, it was designed by engineers and not someone that wants to impress with electric fans and aluminum. "If It Ain't Broke Don't Fix It". best quote ever.
JoeMish
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When was the last time you changed the radiator fluid??? it does not last forever? If you change fluids regularly flush the system and use new thermostats everything should work just fine and it would cost you Less than $30.00, how much did those electric fans and radiator cost you?