Stalls out at operating temp

[dirtybird#7]

It runs down the front of the block just to the right and in front of the alternator. It is rubber which I thought was standard but that’s what I’m looking to apply a heat shield wrap to along with the rubber sections leading into the carb

 

[quikbird]

should actually be metal tube. you want minimal rubber hose in the fuel system

 

[69hemibeep]

should actually be metal tube. you want minimal rubber hose in the fuel system

For safety reasons

 

[dirtybird#7]

Makes perfect sense, scratching my head on that part of the rebuild on the reasoning as to why it was setup that way

 

[Russ69Runner]

Dose it have all new fuel line's. Did you buy this car from some one else or are you the original owner. Did not remember if you have electric fuel pump or manual. Did you ever take the sending unit out of the tank. The strainer on this car was totally shot. Put a stainless steel filter on it. Did this before cranking the car. These are different thing's to look for.

 

[dirtybird#7]

Yes all new fuel lines, electric external and in-line Mallory comp pump, don’t know about the sending unit I’ll review. Car was given to us by my father-in-law, under his care for about 7 years of which the last 4 it was being redone.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Really a rad car. Well maybe just trying to figure out what it could be. So if all that was done then it is under the hood. I would say. I know it can be frustrating trying to figure out what it could be. It is something simple that is being over looked. A heat shield would be a simple fix. Do you have one of those temp readers that is hand held. Might try looking at the carb bowl's. Check temp cold and run the car around the block the take another reading. Dose the carb have filter's built in like Holley has. Those are small and have pulled them out before. What grade fuel are you running.

 

[Rapid Transit]

Hahaha great story! Here’s the coil, thought it was a decent one but maybe not LOL

View attachment 31457

View attachment 31458

That's a good coil.
Based on what I'm reading it MAY be fuel and it MAY be ignition.
I mean fuel plus spark?
You got gas?
A spark isn't necessarily a GOOD spark.
For example, If you have a voltage drop somewhere 9 volts may not run your system when hot.
ECU got a good ground?.
I can highly recommend these below.
I run them on all my cars.
Like 5 years on one now 70 miles a day to work.
Pricey but ALL the auto part store ECUs are junk
I've had them bad off the shelf
Fake transistors on them too.
I don't trust new orange stuff either
FWIW.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html

 

[Russ69Runner]

I know this can drive you crazy. Like looking for the needle in a hay stack. The thing is it crank's and runs till it get's hot. When it get hot and wont crank or run pull a spark plug and ground it and see if your getting any spark. Or if it is blue or yellow. This would take car of the electrical pretty quick. Then you can move on to gas-vapor lock or what ever else it could be.

 

[Rapid Transit]

I usually stick a jumper wire in the boot and place the other end close to ground
For someone less daring use a spare plug rather than pull a hot one.
Does the accelerator pump squirt gas when it won't run?
I did not understand if it did so that's why I'm fishing for something else.
Gotta love uncle Tony.
I don't want to have to fool with a driver for points.
So ECU plug and play for me.

 

[dirtybird#7]

Thanks all for all the advice. So I heat wrapped the fuel line from the fuel filter to the carb and that seemed to do the trick though if you listen to the video after running for a while at normal operating temp she’s also now idling high and there’s a distinctive whistling/whining sound so on to checking the vacuum lines for a leak.

 

[Russ69Runner]

If we keep at it then it is bound to get fixed sooner than later. Glad you found the problem. Still would get a metal line on it. Those rubber lines tend to rot and metal will be their for ever. Hope you get to drive it more than around the block dirtybird#7.

 

[dirtybird#7]

 

[Russ69Runner]

YA HOO!!!!!! Run's like a champ. Good job dirtybird#7!!!!!!!

 

[440rtse]

I had the same problem with my Challenger years ago, I would be driving for about 25 to 30 mins. and the car would die. The carb at the time had a side glass so you could see the fuel.' I checked it and no fuel. So like in your case the car would have to cool down before it would start again. So I changed out the fuel pump, that didn't help, made sure fuel line was not the problem,(heat related) . So to make a long story short, I installed a electric fuel pump and never had the problem again. Never figured it out.

 

[Russ69Runner]

From what I have read the fuel pump rod can be the problem. Work's fine to start but as it warm's up it dose not push the pump well enough to keep the flow of gas coming out.

 

[Zizzinator]

Sometimes the diaphragm in the mech fuel pumps gets stuck in one position and the internal return spring breaks or isn't enough to reset it. Had one go over center on me from just pure cheap design! The pushrod for it then just sits doing nothing. It's very unlikely that the diaphragm would get stuck in the open position though since the pushrod is connected right to the cam and you'd start seeing damage on the cam or timing before long if it was seized.

Another thing to also check is if the needles in the bowl are releasing. I fought for months with a set of the 6bbl demon carbs running dry even with a high flow fuel pump only to find the needles were getting so stuck to the seat it would block almost 12 psi of fuel flow. Then again the demon 6bbl carbs were pure garbage so... doubt you've got the same issue.

 

[dirtybird#7]

So after diagnosing that it’s not a fuel issue, determined it’s an electrical issue, had the green wire that goes to the alternator burn, crack and expose itself. Had to replace it and now the volt gauge is jumping off the charts. These gremlins are absolutely killing me LOL. May be a bad alternator even though it’s only about 2 months old. Anyone ever replace the ignition condenser? That could be suspect after car heats up as I’m getting little to no spark.

 

[Zizzinator]

Check your ground strap from the engine to the body/battery. Most burning wires and poor connections are because the ground is not getting a good connection. As weird as it sounds I had a set of rear axle bearings go bad because the ignition circuit had no good ground and the only way it got back to the battery was through the drivetrain to the frame rails. And leaf springs. It fried so many ballast resistors I probly gave the stock in the company who makes them a nice boost before figuring out the frayed and rusted wire running from the block to the firewall was the smoking gun.

 

[Russ69Runner]

So after diagnosing that it’s not a fuel issue, determined it’s an electrical issue, had the green wire that goes to the alternator burn, crack and expose itself. Had to replace it and now the volt gauge is jumping off the charts. These gremlins are absolutely killing me LOL. May be a bad alternator even though it’s only about 2 months old. Anyone ever replace the ignition condenser? That could be suspect after car heats up as I’m getting little to no spark.

You will get it figured out I am sure. It is frustrating to say the least. Have you replace the blast resistor. Something funny is going on for sure.