Restored Parking Lamp housings with NEW pigtails from Mike @ BE&A!

I am with you on the part's getting lost. My runner parts are in the top of my barn. What I can tote up their. Try to keep every thing in order but hard sometimes. Write on the box what is in it with black felt marker. Still have a problem locating things some times. Just type in search bar My Friend PETE and put restoring headlights and you will get what you want. He cusses like a sailor but that is what he was. Has been restoring car's for 30 plus years. I have even called him early in the morning and he and I discussed what I was doing and he gave me good info. Let's see GPS tracking. :rofl:
 
Acme,

Thanks for the compliments. I wasn't planning on blackening it out. I guess I should put the grille up to see what it looks like. If I do, I will either use vinyl wrap or is there something like a "peel off paint" I can brush on, in case I get it on something I didn't want to or don't like it?

Just got the lower fender support rods on today, had to chase the threads out for the bolts to go in straight. Seems like everything is a fight.
 
I won't blacken out any of that my self even the head light area is going to be the color of the car. How much can you see when all the stuff is bolted on any way's. I painted it and want to leave as much showing as I can. The radiator will be black any way. I can't bring my self to black out that color I put on any way. :lol:
 
Body color behind the grill does not look very good. Black it out. You will be glad you did. :2cents:
 
Thank you for the input. Maybe it's me or the time it took to paint the car. Hard to bring my self to paint over it. Russ.
 
droptop said:
Body color behind the grill does not look very good. Black it out. You will be glad you did. :2cents:
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Yeah - agreed, there is a reason that Ma MoPar did this from the factory. Because they would not have done so if they could have gotten away with it. That would have amounted to a huge savings over the years.
 
Pretty scary to go painting flat black on a new paint job but it should be doneroadrunner restoration 786.jpg
 
I'm debating about how far down the core support to do mine. Cannot tell how far down the black came originally as a previous fender-bender repaint had destroyed all of the evidence. Probably do it like you did yours - looks odd to me when you see a bright body color poking out under the front bumper.
 
I followed a schematic that was supposed to be a factory flier but yes you can see color down low thru the bumper so I did this on the next one. Its not correct but neither is other parts of the carDSCN0928.JPG
 
NO NO NO I refuse to paint black on my pretty new paint job!!!!!!. And I don't care if it lower's the price because this is my casket. Like Elvis. :lol:
 
I wonder if i can brush it on, i already have some of the big parts on... that is why i was thinking of that stuff can peel off if i mess it up.
 
roadrunninMark said:
I wonder if i can brush it on, i already have some of the big parts on... that is why i was thinking of that stuff can peel off if i mess it up.
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A company on line has exact match spray paint for factory paint colors, late models anyways. Has clear coat finish and I mean spot on match. Need to be careful spraying lacquer over enamel as it can wrinkle. I know nothing, meaning I’m looking at complete interior/exterior finishes here lol. https://www.automotivetouchup.com/ May have a match, will probably have a few more touch ups before all’s put back together?

Well I don’t know either if modern day paints are being used or as my road runner had straight enamel finish, no clear coat back to ‘69.
 
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I think i will buy some flat black paint or even rhino liner and use a brush and dab it on. The peel off paint looks like they only recommend it being on for 3 months. Since it will mostly be hidden, I don’t think it has to be concours looking.
 
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