Radiator problems

Russ69Runner

Russ69Runner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2016
Messages
7,855
Reaction score
3,399
Location
Lake Wales Fl.
My brass copper radiator is leaking out the bottom. Cracks in the tank. It has been in the car for two years and only 4000 miles on the car since restored. I purchased it new from Roseville and after reading the warranty. Printed on the sales slip see there is no warranty covered by them. I am so frustrated by the junk that we are sold. There are no radiator shops anymore that work on them. So, now looking at an aluminum one that classic sells. Say made in Usa and not foreign made. It is a 26-inch rad two core. The only thing is stated made by swamp cooler. Has anyone tired one of these. If so, are you happy with it. Looked at Cold Case rad. but they do not have the 26 inch. Still want to use my motor driven fan and not use electrical fans. Any help or thoughts is appreciated. Russ.
 
IDK what Roseville is.
Glen-ray if correct is important. Take out a bank loan though.
If a car doesn't have a radiator years ago I bought from Classic that turned out to be made by https://usradiator.com/
It was a good radiator. And fairly close in appearance to factory.
(Kudos to Classic for working with me on a couple of problems over the years.)
Crack in tank?
IDK if it's worth it but there are places that do fix them up here.
Shipping? Probably not. The would have to see it to even know.
https://www.kellradiatorservice.com/
 
Called Roseville and due to the time being bought the warranty is out. Warranty is only good for two years. They are a Mopar parts supplier. So now have found a shop that says they can fix mine. But will be about two days or so to fix mine. The crack is about a quarter of an inch wide and also a pin hole close to that. This one was keeping the car cool. Normal operating temps. So do I waste my money and time or just pop for an Aluminum one. The Aluminum is a two core and not three. Mine is a three core 26 inch and the only thing is available in aluminum is two cores. Or they are 22 inch and not 26. I have read that aluminum dose not transfer heat as well as the copper brass radiators. Guess I will have to roll the dice and see what comes up. LOL. Thanks for the info and will be hashing out which way to go. :BangHead:
 
i have had a repeating problem with my rad that had a new core put in. it has been out of the car 3 times for leaks at the over the last 18 years. the last time i had it at the repair shop i was given info that for some reason i was surprised. maybe you all won't be. he told me that he way that the upper and lower tanks are attached, you should only use a 4 to 7 psi cap which he is telling me is stock for those old cars. maybe that will help someone.
 
from the service manual chapter 7

SSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAP
Select the short neoprene seal and metal adapter
from the kit, Tool (2-3499. Slip the seal on the tube at
the bottom of the instrument. Then attach either end
of the short adapter to the instrument. Dip the pressure cap in water and apply cap to end of adapter.
Working the plunger, as shown in (Fig. 7) bring the
pressure to 16 pounds on the gauge. If the pressure
cap fails to hold the pressure within a range of 14-17
pounds, replace the cap with a new tested cap.
The brass vent valve at the bottom of the cap
should hang freely. If the rubber gasket has swollen
and prevents the valve from hanging loosely, replace the cap. Do no
 
mac said:
i have had a repeating problem with my rad that had a new core put in. it has been out of the car 3 times for leaks at the over the last 18 years. the last time i had it at the repair shop i was given info that for some reason i was surprised. maybe you all won't be. he told me that he way that the upper and lower tanks are attached, you should only use a 4 to 7 psi cap which he is telling me is stock for those old cars. maybe that will help someone.
Click to expand...
V.R.D said:
from the service manual chapter 7

SSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAP
Select the short neoprene seal and metal adapter
from the kit, Tool (2-3499. Slip the seal on the tube at
the bottom of the instrument. Then attach either end
of the short adapter to the instrument. Dip the pressure cap in water and apply cap to end of adapter.
Working the plunger, as shown in (Fig. 7) bring the
pressure to 16 pounds on the gauge. If the pressure
cap fails to hold the pressure within a range of 14-17
pounds, replace the cap with a new tested cap.
The brass vent valve at the bottom of the cap
should hang freely. If the rubber gasket has swollen
and prevents the valve from hanging loosely, replace the cap. Do no
Click to expand...

I've got nothing to back me up other than experience.
I'm glad V.R.D. posted the service manual specs.

1. I've run later model Chrysler caps (junk yard pull 16 PSI) on re-cored radiators for years with no problems.
My brother in law had his 1969 radiator re-cored and had to take it back to the shop several times.
It was a crappy job. Not neat at all on the tank solders.
They told him to run a lower pressure cap.
I called BS. It's brass and lead tin radiators.
What's the difference?
That might work but I think that's just a band aid for a weak radiator.

2. A mechanical engineer at work told me brass is the way to go.
I thought a lot of his opinions.
As far as I can see aluminum is cheaper and weighs less.
And may have some other "advantages".
.
 
Last edited:
Ok. Got my new Radiator in from US Radiators. Fits like the old one that was not that old. LOL So took a drive this afternoon in the runner to see if I had any leaks. All good. It feels great to have the car on the road again. My wife said I was grumpy and glad the car is fixed so my attitude might be better. :steering:
 
Ok here we go again. Everything went south on me after driving to town and fill up the runner. Almost got home off the major highway to make a turn on to the road that takes me home. 3 miles down it to my house. Had a sound like something grinding and made the turn and pulled off on to the shoulder. Yes, fan shroud eaten up and rad pouring out fluid at bottom of my new radiator. So, Radiator shot, and shroud is torn up. There went 800 dollars for the new radiator and 145 for new shroud. The shroud is eaten up at top like it got into the fan and took pieces down into the radiator core at bottom. Thought how cheap the new shroud was and just plastic and not composite material. Going to check today and see if my water pump has any movement in it or what the heck happened. I am livid just really don't know what went wrong. So have to order another radiator and try to find a better shroud other than the one I got from classic industries. Will post some pics of the shroud. :BangHead::elmer:Here classic industries!!!! :hifu:
 
If it's any consolation maybe it's not your fault?
Maybe the clutch failed.
It's things that are preventable I do that gets me.
Warning.
If anyone ever paints a brand new cowl top and the new paint apparently gets sanding "grit" in the louvers (blown up from inside the cowl?) DO NOT just try and cover it up with more paint.
You will end up having to take the louvers down to bare metal anyway.
It's a PITA and will eat up days of time.
Especially after you have painted other things and need to protect them
 
Last edited:
No fan clutch just spacer. Got to figure a way to move my A/C compressor back to get more room. Guess we are never done working on these old cars. :beep:
 
They are. Have a new fan coming from speedway. Before I start cutting up the A/C compressor mounting bracket to move it back 3/4 of an inch. Then could use a 1- and 1/2-inch fan spacer in steed of the two inch I have now. Like I sated before changing to a new radiator everything worked fine without fan strike on the radiator. Yes, it was close even then but never contacted the radiator. So any suggestions would be grate. Russ.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top