Those are some fantastic Blues, definitely came out very nice, very clean at least in the pictures provided.
As an update on mine, she's been shipped to her long term storage for the final build (location withheld for obvious reasons, I don't need her being taken for a drive without me)
but the engine has been installed, dash, exhaust system, wiring harness, steering column, fuel lines, gas tank, and front suspension.
Ran into a few more "problems" but nothing that has been as much of a kick in the nuts as the paint getting screwed up.
I'm going to compile a "memoir" of sorts of the all the lessons learned, areas where I was screwed by "professionals", and overall any advice I have compiled throughout this and the other car build I've completed.
The spark notes of it are:
1. Any business that repairs damage, or has a large clientele with lots of fancy cars in the shop is not a restoration business and should be avoided unless your insurance company is paying for the work
2. If a shop has to hire a Mopar guy to work on your car.... leave, it's not the right place to be
3. There is no such thing as a "mint" or "clean" or "rust free" body, bonus points if the seller says they personally replaced body panels themselves from a "rust free" texas donor car.
4. Folks who build race engines do not build engines for reliability and should only be consulted for strong pistons and high flow heads.
5. Terms like "bolt on" and "universal" can be categorized with terms like "life-time guarantee" and "free money", complete BS and to be avoided unless extensive design and research is completed by yourself
6. Cars from the 60's were designed to be as cheap as possible, meaning: cheap quality and thin steel, clips and parts from random cars fit better than reproduction parts, random design choices and lots and lots of areas to improve on.
7. Know when to settle for "good enough", pushing for a fantastic finish to the point of hating working on the car or becoming vindictive of others means it's time to re-evaluate the end goal.
Putting the body panels and pieces on the body so far I've nicked and damaged the paint in corners and edges, there is no fixing it so I'm settling to just accept it as it is and fix what I can. all in all I think when the paint and clear is finally fixed on the fenders and the rest of the body has been cut and buffed I'll be pretty much exactly where the car started paint wise before the resto all these years ago. With an updated drivetrain, better wiring, most stronger structural frame and better built brakes and fuel line system, It at least won't be nearly as dangerous to drive it.
View attachment 33021
View attachment 33022
View attachment 33023
View attachment 33024
View attachment 33025
View attachment 33026