Ok want to go through an 383

[Russ69Runner]

Any one have suggestion's on rings. Rocker springs. Lifters. Crank bearings. Just about every thing to rebuild this motor to like new. Might put a street cam in but nothing heavy. Would appreciate the info. Russ.

 

[Coyote]

Name brand stuff! Lots of excellent suppliers. If you are replacing all valve gear, I’d stick with lifters, springs, retainers ALL from whatever cam supplier you use. A complete cam kit would probably be less money than mixing different stuff.

Staying with all name brand parts should keep you out of the woods.

Howards cams makes repop grinds of lots of muscle era cams. 375 hp 440 cam would be civilized and fun! Pretty much same as stock RR cam.

Tons of great choices out there!

Get ready for machine shoppe sticker shock. Good luck! Keep us advised.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Yea Coyote. Hoping that the bore is still good. This motor was bored 30 over already. Just would like to put in new cam. All bearings. Valve springs if Valve's are good do a reseat. I do a lot of motor work over the years. Hone my cylinders my self. As little machine work as possible those guy's are not cheap and take for ever to do the work. Also hard to find a trust worthy shop. Lot of them have gone out of business over the year's around here. Thanks for the info. Out the way slow poke runner coming through.

 

[dmartin]

Crane makes good lifters springs and cams that’s what I have

 

[Russ69Runner]

Yea Brett. Looking at that. We know how important to have good Valve spring's and lifter's. Did you go with solid lifter's or hydraulic one's that is a question I have been asking around on. Which is the best. With hydraulic one's know you can get a collapsed lifter. Or some say a floated lifter. Really only had that problem when drag racing never when just normal driving. Russ. questions questions. To many things to think about.

 

[Coyote]

IMO juice lifters are the only way to go for anything but all an out race car. Less aggravation, maintenance, noise and more peace of mind.

Almost all decent ones will buzz six grand rpm. How much more do you think you’ll need or want on a street car?

Choosing cams is great fun too. If you have doubts, call any cam grinders tech assistance line. Their professional advice is free and almost always tailored to your needs and your expected usage.

 

[69hemibeep]

And stay away from the old grinds that make the car sound like a funny car at idle, make your eyes bleed from unburned fuel and the power curve is from 5700 RPM to 6200 RPM. And AMC Pacers are kickin your ass off the line.

 

[Coyote]

Harrumph! That’s where the fun is! Impress the troops at cruise ins, who cares if it’s a slug/as long as it sounds wicked!

 

[Coyote]

Here we go, look out below!

 

[Russ69Runner]

Ok just want a street cam nothing to radical. Would like to drive through wall mart parking lot with out it lunging forward with every stroke of a piston. Would also like too get fairly good gas millage. Something better than 6 or 10 miles to the gallon. No it's not going to be a dragster. Just want a little more than it came with. Russ.

 

[dmartin]

Yea Brett. Looking at that. We know how important to have good Valve spring's and lifter's. Did you go with solid lifter's or hydraulic one's that is a question I have been asking around on. Which is the best. With hydraulic one's know you can get a collapsed lifter. Or some say a floated lifter. Really only had that problem when drag racing never when just normal driving. Russ. questions questions. To many things to think about.

Hydraulic lifters don’t think I will be racing spent to much money in this car to wrap it around a tree

 

[Russ69Runner]

I Hear that my friend. If I want a drag car would not be worrying about so much about the body or leak's. Would just get an old beater and would not care so much about tearing it up. After all that is what happens when drag racing you brake every thing under the sun and then some.

 

[CompSyn]

Might put a street cam in but nothing heavy.

Because of your note below regarding the pistons, there is a high likelihood that your 383 is supporting low compression if you're combining unknown pistons and 906 heads. Compression in the 8:1 range or even lower may be a reality. Unless you know for sure what type/brand pistons were installed and what the compression distance of the piston is, it's going to be hard to know for sure? If you have the ability to put a dial indicator on your piston @ TDC to see how far in the hole you are, that would be very good to know. Without having this information in hand, it would be highly advisable to use a cam no bigger than stock.

This motor was bored 30 over already. Just would like to put in new cam.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Thanks CompSyn. That is good advice. When the motor rebuild starts will do all these thing's. It was possible to put a lighter cam in motor's to make it a little hotter. We used the old blue streak cam back in the day. They only gave you a slight increase in the valve opening. Just added a little more horse power. This motor had been bored. At some point. So when opening the motor will Mike every thing and go from their. Hoping to see cross hatching still in the cylinder wall would be a plus. Would limit the amount of work I would have to do. But will check bore and look for piston skirt slap in the lower half of jug. Thanks again. Russ.

 

[mr4speed]

If you want a good all around street and track cam you cant go wrong with hemi grind cam for a 383.

 

[mopar jack]

I like the comp cams nostalgia for 383/440. Gives the car that muscle car sound at idle and performs well. https://www.compcams.com/nostalgia-plus-233-240-hydraulic-flat-cam-for-chrysler-383-440.html

 

[Russ69Runner]

So now I have run into problems finding the connecting rods with a pressed in wrist pin. For a 383. Any suggestion's is appreciated. Thought they where out their for sale but not having any luck.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Any one know where to find the connecting rod's new that have the wrist pin pressed into the connecting rod's like the original one's. Looked every where. Figured some of the guy's here have a source. For a stock 383 Hp motor.

 

[ACME A12]

You're probably going to have to go with H-Beams with floating wrist pins. Not much demand for stock-style 383 rods so they are not out there. Summit Racing has Eagles for $475/set. Your other option is to recondition an old original set. A lot of machine shops don't even want to mess with this anymore...they can't charge you enough to make it worth their time and new replacement sets are just too cheap...and are a way better design anyway...

 

[Russ69Runner]

That is what I am finding out ACME A12. Then I have to buy hardened piston's. Wanted to run the old cast iron ones. But it is what it is. Thanks. Russ.