MSD 8386 Distributor, Chrysler 383-400, Ready-to-Run

[ashy22]

My 69 Roadrunner is a totally stock matching numbers machine in show quality condition.

The problem is that I want to mod it somehow without getting away from its original form.

It runs perfect aside from a slightly harsh change of gear from the 727 auto box.

Only other thing I can say (and I am being picky) is that the engine at idle is a bit erratic.

Its got stock ignition with points so I thought fitting a MSD dizzy with ignition box built in and a blaster 3 coil would be a good idea without taking it too far from a stock look.

This one fits the bill

https://www.telematica.uk.com/produ...0vcl6fHxtmwcdmQvlLlIJY70kgHiQ-JLWOxoCH_rw_wcB

It's also got a rev limiter built in so I could set that up too. I always wonder about over revving when driving.

What do you think? :cheers:

 

[quikbird]

ashy. how important is being show quality on your ride? these distributer and boxes need several other changes besides just plugging them in. one main thing is that the ballast resistor goes away and suddenly you are combining wires that used to go to the ballast resistor coil etc. If I wanted to keep mine stock the change I would make is swap the points for a magnetic trigger (pertronix) and go on my merry way. if you are carefull and don't miss a shift when you are racing you shouldn't have to worry about overrevving the engine.
ps if you make the change your tach will need an adapter to make it work.

 

[Roadcuda]

I'll second the Pertronics II. I have it in my car and I am very happy with it. And the only variation from stock is that it uses 2 wires out of the stock distributor, it won't be seen unless someone is looking for it.

 

[Ranger]

Mine had been converted to breakerless ignition before I bought it and has a Mopar Performance ECU kit and obviously a new breakerless (magnetic trigger) distributor. I'm happy with it and conversion is a piece of cake. While not technically correct for the '69, it is still Mopar and would be closer to original.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Mopar-Perform...onic-Ignition-Conversion-Kits/747043/10002/-1

 

[stevo]

Ranger has it right!
You should also check out

http://www.4secondsflat.com

the MP system was made for your car!
and it works right out of the box.
don't be fooled into thinking the stock stuff is no good.

 

[djais1801]

Mine had been converted to breakerless ignition before I bought it and has a Mopar Performance ECU kit and obviously a new breakerless (magnetic trigger) distributor. I'm happy with it and conversion is a piece of cake. While not technically correct for the '69, it is still Mopar and would be closer to original.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Mopar-Perform...onic-Ignition-Conversion-Kits/747043/10002/-1

this is what i have in mine prior to me buying it...the only thing i added was a voltage regulator upgraded for electronic ignition

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321566455931?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Ranger]

Same here. My voltage regulator was over charging and causing major problems. Once I got it figured out I switched it to a Wells VR706 as recommended by :huh: Big John I believe. Been problem free ever since.

 

[ashy22]

ashy. how important is being show quality on your ride? these distributer and boxes need several other changes besides just plugging them in. one main thing is that the ballast resistor goes away and suddenly you are combining wires that used to go to the ballast resistor coil etc. If I wanted to keep mine stock the change I would make is swap the points for a magnetic trigger (pertronix) and go on my merry way. if you are carefull and don't miss a shift when you are racing you shouldn't have to worry about overrevving the engine.
ps if you make the change your tach will need an adapter to make it work.

I have just read the MSD manual for the distributor and it does say that you need to bypass the ballast resistor. Good point quikbird. If I fit something like a Petronix II ignition kit, would I still need to bypass the ballast resistor?

 

[Roadcuda]

I have just read the MSD manual for the distributor and it does say that you need to bypass the ballast resistor. Good point quikbird. If I fit something like a Petronix II ignition kit, would I still need to bypass the ballast resistor?

No, it's still used in the system.

 

[ashy22]

No, it's still used in the system.

Great. Sounds like just what I need. Can I use the stock coil?

What about the Ignitor III - any better?

 

[ashy22]

Ok seems like the Ignitor III is not what I need.

I need to know the part number of the Dizzy so I can order the correct Ignitor II kit.

Its a single points dizzy. See photos

Do any of you guys know which one it is or do I need to look for something else. There is no tag on the dizzy with a code number on it. Just a "70" stamped on the body.

 

[Roadcuda]

Great. Sounds like just what I need. Can I use the stock coil?

What about the Ignitor III - any better?

I use the stock coil in my car, no problems. The Pertronix II part # is 91381A for the single point distributor. I'm not familiar with the III version

 

[Rocket]

I run the FBO system on my 440 and I like it. The owner has always been cool about answering all my questions as well.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html

 

[ashy22]

I use the stock coil in my car, no problems. The Pertronix II part # is 91381A for the single point distributor. I'm not familiar with the III version

Thanks for that Roadcuda. I will get one ordered. :cheers:

 

[stevo]

I second the FBO system!
hint hint...
Don (the owner) is the real deal!

 

[ashy22]

Right - I installed the Pertronix unit in the dizzy. Followed the instructions to the letter and cabled the positive side (by soldering extension wire) to the ignition side of the Ballast resistor.

Fired it up and nothing - just the engine sat there spinning round on the starter.

Had another look at the gap of the unit to the rotor inside the dizzy. Double checked it for accuracy and fired it again - Nothing again. Just flooded the engine.

OK.

I tried it with a smaller gap and a bigger gap just to see if it made any difference. Nothing.

Had enough by now of this simple swap over so I replaced the points, reset the gap and and hey - fired first time.

Confused

 

[quikbird]

I didn't think it did but the instruction sheet I looked at recommends bypassing the ballast resistor

 

[mac]

unless you change to a coil that can handle straight voltage ( +12 volts) you must use the ballast resistor or you will fry the coil. end of story. the pertronix III needs a steady 12 volts to work correctly and the old cars and old wiring won't do it. pertronix II needs any voltage over 8 volts to work which is what i am currently using.

 

[Roadcuda]

The talk here finally got me off my butt to get and install a Pertronix II on my '69 Fury's 383 and I had no problems. It fired right up though I did have to readjust the air gap. I ran the red wire to the ignition, or battery side of the resistor, and the black wire to the same side of the coil that the original wire from the distributor went. I installed the black ring with the green strip on the rotor and put them in, gaped it to .030, and finally the cap. Turned the key and it started right up and ran great. I'm sure this is what you did so maybe there was a connection loose or possibly you got a bad unit, just because it's new doesn't mean it couldn't be bad.

 

[ashy22]

The only thing that i can think of is that it is a bad unit or they have sent the wrong part number.

It is definitely the stock Chrysler distributor so should be part number 91381A.

I will post up a picture of the Pertronix ignitor module and the position as mounted in the dizzy.

I even elongated the adjusting slot so as to give it more adjustment range but it didn't seem to make a difference.