jack stand placing

[vso737]

Working on a COLD garage floor-
What are the best locations for placing jack stands on a '69 Roadrunner in order to lower the rear axle to make room for removing the gas tank sending unit.

I will most likely also incorporate my Rhino ramps (never too much safety) and will also remove the tires so the axle has plenty room to drop.

I've been having fuel gauge issues and now that I have a gas leak, which most likely is either the gas cap gasket or the sending unit gasket. I suspect the gas cap since I have had spilled gas coming from the gas cap in the past after filling up the tank. Hard to locate a gasket, made my own last time. I just ordered one throug O'Reilly's.

 

[69hemibeep]

Frame rails near the front of the leaf springs

 

[Ernie]

No need to lower diff. can do in place. Leak you may fox but gauge to be accurate search site you’ll get the picture.

 

[ACME A12]

No need to lower diff. can do in place. Leak you may fox but gauge to be accurate search site you’ll get the picture.

Pretty sure he's just trying to get it to drop down some to gain additional clearance and snake it out of there; not actually lowering the axle out of the way. My interpretation anyway.

 

[vso737]

I spent the day syphoning approx. 14 gallons out of the tank. The rear of the car is on ramps. I definitely have a leaking sending unit. Looks like the seal where the ground wire connects on the sender.
I need to TAKE OUT the sender out of the tank. I prefer to have as much room to work in as possible.
I just purchased jack stand pads for my jacks and plan on putting them on the frame rails just forward of the rear wheels as was suggested by "69HEMIBEEP". I always use the rear axle to support the rear of the car. This job requires a different method-one has to do what he has to do.............

I have my Model A hotrod up on stands. I'm about to remove the rear end in order to beef up the transverse spring. I'm also changing wheels and new tires and modifying the exhaust. THEN THIS LEAKING RR ends up TRUMPING all my plans. LEAKING gas takes priority every day....................LOL
I'll try to take some pictures as I go along....................
Thanks for the advise,
Mike

 

[quikbird]

Jack stands just in front of the front leaf spring mount. Chocks on front wheels, this will kick rear of car up and lots of room underneath.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Jack stand's are good. but 6X6 Timbers are grate also. I had my hole car jacked up on them when working on the car. Foot and a half long or longer. Use two on top of each other. Used pieces of carpet on them to keep from scratching the frame rail's. Always block your front tires if working on the rear. I know you knew that for sure. Good luck with the fix.

 

[Rapid Transit]

IF this was me, I would drop the tank and NOT the rear.
It's not a question of which is easier, but I don't like laying under a car and changing a sending unit.
I want good eyes on the seal and unit going in.
And there is that gas fumes over my head thing while I'm under a car.
I use brass the get ring off and on too.

A little off topic but I noticed in the other thread a possible "vent" line leaking.
I'm currently upgrading to a 3/8 stainless fuel line from 5/16.
Also a stainless tank since my experience tells me the plateing on the repo tanks are not as good as the originals.
They scratch too.
This is my second stainless tank change out on more than one B body.
The only 3/8 stainless pickup I could find has a vent line which I do not need.
I'll be capping it.

 

[69hemibeep]

IF this was me, I would drop the tank and NOT the rear.
It's not a question of which is easier, but I don't like laying under a car and changing a sending unit.
I want good eyes on the seal and unit going in.
And there is that gas fumes over my head thing while I'm under a car.
I use brass the get ring off and on too.

A little off topic but I noticed in the other thread a possible "vent" line leaking.
I'm currently upgrading to a 3/8 stainless fuel line from 5/16.
Also a stainless tank since my experience tells me the plateing on the repo tanks are not as good as the originals.
They scratch too.
This is my second stainless tank change out on more than one B body.
The only 3/8 stainless pickup I could find has a vent line which I do not need.
I'll be capping it.

The 3/8 pickup vent you are refering to is used as a 1/4" return line from the vapor seperator on Hemi and 440 cars. If you ever experiance vapor lock it is a good cure otherwise like you say cap it.