Indy heads

[RKNRLR]

Found a crack in one of my aftermarket aluminium heads, in an almost unrepairable position - read "expensive". Thinking about putting those $$$ to better use and getting a better set of heads instead.
Considering the INDY 440 EZ - seem to be the only head of theirs with stock intake and exhaust locations and sizes.
Also looking at the 440 EZ-1, but I'm wondering if the "intake openings CNC machined to the Max Wedge size" will mean the tunnel ram i have already purchased will not bolt up.
Both have a better 75cc combustion chamber (im currently making do with 84cc), but the EZ will mean I can make use of my current rocker setup as well. Sounds like a fair trade for only 5cc difference of intake port volume.

Anyone have any experience with these heads? Troublesome? easy as? any help much appreciated!

 

[quikbird]

Currently have the ez-1. Little ez heads. Have had zero problems with head. Yes you need max wedge style intake. Exhaust seems to be in same place.

 

[gkent]

I have the EZ-1's. In hind sight I should have bought the standard port heads so I could use the Eddy EFI manifold. One word of advice, buy the heads from a source other than Indy - someone like Dave Porter in Vermont. They'll actually be "ready to run" when you get them. One mod they definitely should have is spring locators to the springs don't bugger up the seats. Also, buying them from someone other than indy you'll be able to get the correct springs to match your cam instead of the Indy standard "will handle lifts up to .600" !!

 

[Russ69Runner]

Thanks for the info gkent.

 

[RKNRLR]

I have the EZ-1's. In hind sight I should have bought the standard port heads so I could use the Eddy EFI manifold. One word of advice, buy the heads from a source other than Indy - someone like Dave Porter in Vermont. They'll actually be "ready to run" when you get them. One mod they definitely should have is spring locators to the springs don't bugger up the seats. Also, buying them from someone other than indy you'll be able to get the correct springs to match your cam instead of the Indy standard "will handle lifts up to .600" !!

Ended up going with the trickflow 270 Power Ports, very similar in spec to the EZ-1's. Made the expensive mistake of not seeing that these heads ALSO have the max wedge ports sizes, so had to spring for the INDY tunnel ram - NOT cheap - as Trickflow dont have a tunnel ram for twin 4's for this application. Thats what many late nights of internet research can do to a man.

The trickflows were definitley more affordable - about $700/head difference in price - but it also meant that the tunnel ram I picked up almost a year ago will no longer be compatible. They also come with a selection of springs to suit your application.

 

[Russ69Runner]

So you had to find a tunnel ram that was compatible with the head's rite. Seems when we try to improve on things it throws something else out of sort. Yes have ordered thing's twice by being up late searching for part's my self.

 

[Plybeep68]

Is anyone running a set of the "Predator " heads ?

 

[jww69rrpost]

After a lot of back and forth with a multitude of combinations... I finally ended up using 440 cast iron heads (with about everything that can be done to them) on a 400 block with a Comp stroker kit and the EZ FAST 2.0 system with Aeromotive fuel management system (from the tank to the EFI). The end result is a 509 stroker putting out 700 hp and 700 lbs of torque. The thing is truly a torque monster and sounds like its going 100 mph while idling at a traffic light. It does get attention and so far nobody has tried anything stupid... not even the Demon that came up along side me a while back. I've got the Gear Vendor setup, so I can just go with the overdrive or manually split the gears and blast away through six forward speeds.

 

[Russ69Runner]

That sure sound's like a lot of fun. I just keep looking at the 383 motor on the stand and wonder what I am going to do to it. Might not do any thing but you know us guy's we have to tweak it a little.

 

[jww69rrpost]

Totally get it. When I first embarked on this project, I had intending to keep the 383, partly because it was the original engine, and I thought I could get away with not spending too much to get a decent engine, then I discovered there are limitations on what can be done to a 383, especially if the goal is for a big stroker. You CAN turn a stock 383 into a stroker, but there are limitations. After a lot of research, I unexpectedly discovered the best Mopar block for building strokers, especially a big stroker, is the 400 block... not the 440; not the HEMI, and absolutely not the 383. Turns out the 400 blocks have a lot more iron mass than any other Mopar blocks and can handle huge bores and deep strokes. The 400's were not used in any of the "muscle" cars, rather other Chrysler vehicles and motor homes. The best 400 blocks for big strokers are typically from the mid 70's. My engine block and heads are old-school Mopar cast iron products. The block originated from a 1975 motor home; the heads from a 1969 440 Road Runner (block and heads verified from stamped markings), with everything else being aftermarket high performance stuff... making huge horse power and torque. The engine is filled with brand-name high performance/racing products, from the aluminum highrise, topped with the EZ FAST 2.0, to the deep sump Milodon pan and everything in between. What is amazing is the engine comes in at 509 cubic inches; has a compression of 9.5.1, and puts out over 700 hp and the same amount of torque, so it runs just fine on 91 octane pump gas. The rear gears are 3.23 with an Eaton Trutrac. The car launches like it's shot from a cannon. The transmission is a B&M 727 with a 3000 torque converter and backed by a Gear Vendor Under/Overdrive. So for quick launches and ripping up the road, manual gear splitting is the trick. The transmission just stays put in the sweet spot all the way through the gears. When done correctly, a full second of ET gain is possible with this setup.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Spending to much money trying to get the car done rite now. Maybe in a few year's a bigger motor or up grades may be done. Sound like you put a lot of effort into the motor build. It should launch like a rocket. Nice thing is you can do modifying in the motor bay and drive train at a latter date. Thanks for the info. Love hearing about what other guy's have done.

 

[RKNRLR]

So you had to find a tunnel ram that was compatible with the head's rite. Seems when we try to improve on things it throws something else out of sort. Yes have ordered thing's twice by being up late searching for part's my self.

Yeah Russ, I had been slowly buying parts for the upgrade for about a year, and taking the car to the track every now nad again for some fun in between. Blew one of the caps in my diff at the track, so decided to move on up to aa Dana 60 - big unexpected cost.
WHilst the trans was out, took the afermarket alloy heads off for a service, found 2 hairline cracks where we had clearenced for bigger pushrods. Fixable, but money better spent on bigger heads - also big unexpected cost.
All these unexpected costs are starting to take a toll. But when I walk into the engine room, and see this, it all gets better so fast.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Yes that would make my day also. Sorry to hear of the bad luck. But can say that is the cost for going faster. Know all about braking parts on a drag car. That is why the big boy's have sponsor's. It is costly to have fun. Maybe you have it all in line now. What time's are you turning on the track.

 

[RKNRLR]

Best time was 12.7 @ 110, I think it was capable of 12.3, 12.4. Thought I was running out of gas at the top of the track, turns out that crack in the head was sucking oil in and fouling the plug. Gives me even more hope knowing that I was running on 7 cylinders.
Hoping to pick up about 100HP with the upgrades, plus lost a heap of weight with the new fibeglass bonnet, aluminium water pump etc. Mid to low 11's would be fantastic.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Yes that tells me you had something going on. You get it on all 8's and should improve your time. Should pull into the 11's If not close to 10's.