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Hemi Update

zupanj

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I made some good progress this weekend. I got the driver side header separated and removed the cured rtv and put back together with a gasket. Both headers are now tight. Got the starter wires hooked up with a little difficulty but finally made it. I am not sure how tight the battery cable is tightened as it's very hard to get a wrench on the nut which is metric by the way (Denso starter). Then I found I left off the lock washer, too bad at this point unless it loosens up on me. Also got the z-bar and clutch linkage put back and the clutch adjusted. Doesn't sound like much when I write it down but it took a while because clearance is so tight everywhere. Ulnas are not made to make two right angle bends.

You guys have convinced me to go 3" on the exhaust. I have a bid from a shop that is said to do good work for $575 with mufflers, no exhaust tips. Not sure if the mufflers are Dynomax but he called them turbo mufflers. If I go with the tti h-pipe sytem it will run about $50 more with shipping and uninstalled. So I may go to this shop. However I saw some tti stuff at Carlisle and it is first rate and heavy duty. It will last forever. I don't know about tips yet but it looks like Mancini has some non-tti tips. I am not crazy about the tti logo stamped on pieces I just paid a fortune for. I am leaning toward h-pipe rather than x-pipe now, what are your thoughts. Also is there a difference between a Dynomax hemi super turbo muffler and a Dynomax super turbo muffler?

Jack
 

mcmopar

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zupanj said:
I made some good progress this weekend. I got the driver side header separated and removed the cured rtv and put back together with a gasket. Both headers are now tight. Got the starter wires hooked up with a little difficulty but finally made it. I am not sure how tight the battery cable is tightened as it's very hard to get a wrench on the nut which is metric by the way (Denso starter). Then I found I left off the lock washer, too bad at this point unless it loosens up on me. Also got the z-bar and clutch linkage put back and the clutch adjusted. Doesn't sound like much when I write it down but it took a while because clearance is so tight everywhere. Ulnas are not made to make two right angle bends.

You guys have convinced me to go 3" on the exhaust. I have a bid from a shop that is said to do good work for $575 with mufflers, no exhaust tips. Not sure if the mufflers are Dynomax but he called them turbo mufflers. If I go with the tti h-pipe sytem it will run about $50 more with shipping and uninstalled. So I may go to this shop. However I saw some tti stuff at Carlisle and it is first rate and heavy duty. It will last forever. I don't know about tips yet but it looks like Mancini has some non-tti tips. I am not crazy about the tti logo stamped on pieces I just paid a fortune for. I am leaning toward h-pipe rather than x-pipe now, what are your thoughts. Also is there a difference between a Dynomax hemi super turbo muffler and a Dynomax super turbo muffler?

Jack

If I am not mistaken the Hemi Super Turbo has a longer main body than a standard turbo. I have looked everywhere to find 3" Hemi Super Turbo's to no avail but they may still be available out there somewhere. Watch out for "turbo mufflers" from a local shop. Make sure you get a quality muffler. For the price I liked Cherry Bomb turbos. I had a set on my '71 Charger SE and got lots of compliments on the sound. They did resonate at about 40 mph, though, which was a bit annoying at times.

For max power an X-pipe is the way to go as they make a bit more hp than the H-pipe.

The nice thing about the tti system is that you can get pipes, clamps and mufflers all together in their kit. It may cost a bit more but its really a straight forward install - at least mine was. I also like the fact that their pipes are all mandrel bent - no crimping of the pipe or distortion that occurs with a non-mandrel bent pipe. Few local muffler pipes have mandrel benders.

Which headers are you planning to go with btw? That could make a difference. You can get the tti system to match other header brands - all you have to do is let them know what brand of headers you are planning to use. I think you'll really like the 3" system.
 

zupanj

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I ordered the 3" tti exhaust system from Mancini today along with the tti exhaust tips. I am pretty excited now. It is tough for me to come to the point of breaking loose with the money but once I make the decision then I can't wait for the stuff to come in. The money part is no longer an issue. It's funny how many times I have done this and if I look back a year the money spent is not even a thought.
 

mcmopar

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zupanj said:
I ordered the 3" tti exhaust system from Mancini today along with the tti exhaust tips. I am pretty excited now. It is tough for me to come to the point of breaking loose with the money but once I make the decision then I can't wait for the stuff to come in. The money part is no longer an issue. It's funny how many times I have done this and if I look back a year the money spent is not even a thought.

Yeah - I learned that myself in my build. At first I always wanted to cut corners and try to skimp on stuff, then found out it was better to get the good stuff in the 1st place. Daddy's gonna like the 3" tti system!
:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
 

george68hemirr

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zupanj said:
I ordered the 3" tti exhaust system from Mancini today along with the tti exhaust tips. I am pretty excited now. It is tough for me to come to the point of breaking loose with the money but once I make the decision then I can't wait for the stuff to come in. The money part is no longer an issue. It's funny how many times I have done this and if I look back a year the money spent is not even a thought.


jack....you are going to shoot your load when you open the tti box////you made the right decision...now all you need is those flow master mufflers...2 chamber and start that bad boy up to the sound of a hemi.....whoa!!!!!!!!

the starter is a bitch I know...i used a couple of extensions and a universial,socket and rachet....it worked but was tight and time consuming...the gaskets on the headers works great
 

zupanj

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Not much progress this week. It took a lot of time to get the dipstick tube in place. I could kick myself because I was warned about this by a guy who had done a similar conversion. It would have been a breeze to put it in before the headers went on but once they are in place things get really tight. I ended up separating the motor mounts and taking the driver side header off for the second time. The tube slipped right in then. By the way this is a Milodon braided tube, I don't think the standard tube would work. I guess the good side is I can install the headers pretty quickly with all the practice I've had.

I tried to remove my old exhaust by using a hammer and some movement but it is stuck together really tight. I hate to take a SawsAll to it since it is almost brand new. Any ideas?

Jack
 

Basketcase

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if it comes too it, cut the pipes in a straight spot, and you can just use a sleeve to join them back. or carefully use a cut off wheel, and split the outter pipe enough to let them pull apart.
 

george68hemirr

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zupanj said:
Not much progress this week. It took a lot of time to get the dipstick tube in place. I could kick myself because I was warned about this by a guy who had done a similar conversion. It would have been a breeze to put it in before the headers went on but once they are in place things get really tight. I ended up separating the motor mounts and taking the driver side header off for the second time. The tube slipped right in then. By the way this is a Milodon braided tube, I don't think the standard tube would work. I guess the good side is I can install the headers pretty quickly with all the practice I've had.

I tried to remove my old exhaust by using a hammer and some movement but it is stuck together really tight. I hate to take a SawsAll to it since it is almost brand new. Any ideas?

Jack[/quote

i went with the braided dip stick tube also.....like ray said....use heat then beat them off
 

Basketcase

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and if the heat and beat doesn't work, mark the pipes before cutting, then weld them up after you get them off.
 

mcmopar

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george68hemirr said:
zupanj said:
Not much progress this week. It took a lot of time to get the dipstick tube in place. I could kick myself because I was warned about this by a guy who had done a similar conversion. It would have been a breeze to put it in before the headers went on but once they are in place things get really tight. I ended up separating the motor mounts and taking the driver side header off for the second time. The tube slipped right in then. By the way this is a Milodon braided tube, I don't think the standard tube would work. I guess the good side is I can install the headers pretty quickly with all the practice I've had.

I tried to remove my old exhaust by using a hammer and some movement but it is stuck together really tight. I hate to take a SawsAll to it since it is almost brand new. Any ideas?

Jack[/quote

i went with the braided dip stick tube also.....like ray said....use heat then beat them off

I think you might want to re-word that last sentence... :basketcase:
 

george68hemirr

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mcmopar said:
george68hemirr said:
zupanj said:
Not much progress this week. It took a lot of time to get the dipstick tube in place. I could kick myself because I was warned about this by a guy who had done a similar conversion. It would have been a breeze to put it in before the headers went on but once they are in place things get really tight. I ended up separating the motor mounts and taking the driver side header off for the second time. The tube slipped right in then. By the way this is a Milodon braided tube, I don't think the standard tube would work. I guess the good side is I can install the headers pretty quickly with all the practice I've had.

I tried to remove my old exhaust by using a hammer and some movement but it is stuck together really tight. I hate to take a SawsAll to it since it is almost brand new. Any ideas?

Jack[/quote

i went with the braided dip stick tube also.....like ray said....use heat then beat them off

I think you might want to re-word that last sentence... :basketcase:
:yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:
 

zupanj

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Well I had to cut the mufflers off at the rear. It looked like they had a small bead of weld in a couple of spots. It's a shame because the mufflers are Flowmasters. I think you could put the system back together with a couple of sleeves if you wanted to. The pipes are almost brand new and look a lot like tti stuff. I will make a deal if anyone within driving distance is interested. Here's a few pics of the 3" tti installed. It went in really nicely. I haven't put on the clamps yet as I want to make sure there is no interference.

Jack

P1010507.jpg
P1010508.jpg
P1010506.jpg
P1010504.jpg
 

zupanj

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I would like you guys to give me your opinion. The exhaust tips stick out about 2 inches more than the old exhaust did. I can't decide if I like it or not. I can cut a bit more off the exhaust pipes if necessary but it might be a bit trickier with the pipes hanging than when they were in a vise. I have a couple of pics below of the tips installed let me know what you think.

Jack

P1010510.jpg
P1010511.jpg
 

mcmopar

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They stick out just a bit too far IMO. Here are what mine look like.
[attachment=0:swi7icde]tips.jpg[/attachment:swi7icde]
To be honest, I think mine extend just a bit too far also, especially the right one. I need to take them off, break out the dremel and do a little trimming to get them inboard about another 1/2 inch or so.
 

ACME A12

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They're out a bit too far Jack...trim those babies back just a little... Everything is looking REALLY good.... :thumbsup:

My car appears to be wearing most of its original exhaust system and the tips don't stick out even as far as John's do in the picture above... :cents:

Ray
 
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