Help! RR starts...but won't crank up again

[w8kbrder]

Now that you mention it, I almost think the ballast resistor had been changed when the kit was added.

Yes, my ballast resistor came with the electronic ignition kit so this was replaced.

After it runs and warms up a bit, does it not start, or does it not crank? Those are totally different issues to solve. Let us all know! It does look as though your wiring on the starter relay is correct. Double check the yellow wire. It is not melted is it?

The wiring is fine. The yellow wire is not melted. Right now the motor starts up just fine on a cold start (the engine fires and runs under its own power). Push the gas pedal once, turn the key and it fires right up. Runs great. As it warms up, the coil gets VERY hot very quick. Turn off the car. Turn the key, and it just won't fire up. The motor cranks fine (the engine turns under the power of the starter motor). It just won't fire up. It acts as if someone turned on a kill switch. So after letting it cool down or icing down the coil with a towel and ice cubes, the motors fires up just fine. For some reason, that coil is overheating...getting so hot that it will burn you when touched.

I noticed you have an engine ground strap. (the 8-10 gauge wire that runs from the fire wall to the rear of the right cyl. head) Make sure the connection to the firewall is good.

Thanks for the info and where to find the new voltage regulator! I will be replacing my voltage regulator as well as the ground wire that connects between the firewall and the engine block. Right now the ground wire has a good connection on the backside of the motor and firewall.

Also, when you were making your voltage mesurement with the voltmeter, it appears you were in current measurement mode. Your voltmeter should be in VDC position to measure the voltage at the coil. Think of voltage as the amount of water above the dam. Think of current as the amount of water flowing over the dam. And resistance, (IE the loads of the coil, ignition, lights, horn,etc.) as the size of the dam. Try your measurement again. Ask more if still confused.

This makes perfect sense. Thanks I will try to measure it again with the proper setting.

 

[w8kbrder]

Update

Well I replaced the voltage regulator with a newer electronic style. Was hoping this would fix the problem. Nope. I checked the DC and its coming in right at 6 amps at the + side of the coil. But the coil is still getting really hot. So I'm guessing its the wrong coil for the setup. Going to buy an Accel Super Coil that mounts vertical and see if thats the issue. I went through all the wiring and it is correct. Plus I'm guessing if it wasn't wired correctly, it would start up just fine everytime at a cold start.

So I'm going to replace the coil and see if that solves the problem (crossing fingers)

 

[moparmonk]

Volts or Amps? Very big difference. It sounds like the current is flowing all the time through the coil in the run position. I am sorry but I am not sure if it should flow all the time or not. I will try and measure mine to see what it is doing.

 

[4spd69RR]

I had one of those big clunky super coil in my first runner, they work but they are huge. You might want to check out the MSD Blaster 2 coil. Just remember the coils are electronic and once you buy one can't take it back. Be sure the coil is your problem first, it does sound at if it is though.

 

[Basketcase]

mine had a Blaster on it when I got it, along with the electronic ign.It pinged so bad on any kind of grade it sounded like a diesel. It would either die or not start without warning. I changed the ECU, and that took care of the starting issue.
we swapped out the electronic and put points in. Better but still couldn't get the piging to go away. We figured out the lifters were weak, so we swapped a hi volume set, and that took care of the pinging, but it developed a backfire under load. Chnaged out the Blaster with an old stocker, and been running great ever since. First Blaster I ever had, but I never had a coil act like that before.

 

[w8kbrder]

Volts or Amps? Very big difference. It sounds like the current is flowing all the time through the coil in the run position. I am sorry but I am not sure if it should flow all the time or not. I will try and measure mine to see what it is doing.

Sorry! measured at DC! 6 volts coming in at the positive side with ignition key on. You can tell I'm a newb when it comes to eletrical stuff. Sorry about that. Replaced the current coil with an Accel Super Coil. Guess we will see what happens.

 

[4spd69RR]

Good to know, I'll have to keep an ear open for it.

 

[w8kbrder]

Well I replaced the coil with an Accel Super Coil and it starts and runs great. Let it warm up. Turned it off. Cranked up again just fine! I've done this several times and have not had any problems. So far it seems that the issue was my coil. The new coil is not getting hot at all.

 

[inri]

w8kbrder,

I had the same issue. Replaced my coil and ta-da!
As additional insurance I've also wrapped my coil with heat wrap to keep it cooler on those hot California days.

 

[moparmonk]

Great troubleshooting my friend! I hope you let out a big sigh of relief! Sorry I have not got back to you with what mine is doing. This job and work thing is starting to interfere with my personal life!

 

[w8kbrder]

w8kbrder,

I had the same issue. Replaced my coil and ta-da!
As additional insurance I've also wrapped my coil with heat wrap to keep it cooler on those hot California days.

Wrapping the coil is a good idea!

Great troubleshooting my friend! I hope you let out a big sigh of relief! Sorry I have not got back to you with what mine is doing. This job and work thing is starting to interfere with my personal life!

No problem! I know everyone is busy. Now if I could find someone locally to teach me how to weld in patch panels!