getting pissed! ready to sell it!

[moparchris]

I know i dont have a high volume pump. because I was told I had a stock pan and could suck it dry at high rpms. High pressure I might have?

Actually I think its the High Pressure that will suck your pan dry. I have ran many High Volume Pumps with stock pans without issue at High RPM. I always ran a gauge to watch it. I thought High pressure pumps were for Circle Track Racing or something. Might be worth checking into. I was told by a pretty reputable engine builder you need 10 pounds of pressure per 1000 RPM. Anything more is a waste he says.

A high volume pump will pump a stock pan dry. A high volume pump move more oil per revolution where as a high pressure pump merely has the pressure relief valve shimmed to relieve at a higher pressure. I highly recommend a stock volume pump for a stock pan.

 

[generaljmwlee]

now you got me really thinking what pump do I have :huh:

 

[sam z]

Whoever said it above was right. These things come with leaks as part of the package. No doubt.

I have a nuisance tranny leak due to a slightly warped pan. I'll get to it when I get to it. Its a 43 year
old piece of machinery and the technology its based upon is even older. Whatever.

I do sympathize with your plight, I'm sure it sucks. Good luck with it.

 

[railrider]

A high volume pump will pump a stock pan dry. A high volume pump move more oil per revolution where as a high pressure pump merely has the pressure relief valve shimmed to relieve at a higher pressure. I highly recommend a stock volume pump for a stock pan.

I see, but I have ran Melling High Volume with stock pans on most of the cars I have owned. Whether Mopar or Ford. Many were daily drivers back in the mid 90's. Never had a problem, but I rarely rev them over 6000 either. I am a oil gauge rubber-necker too.

 

[moparchris]

I see, but I have ran Melling High Volume with stock pans on most of the cars I have owned. Whether Mopar or Ford. Many were daily drivers back in the mid 90's. Never had a problem, but I rarely rev them over 6000 either. I am a oil gauge rubber-necker too.

Im with ya, but recently I did it to my small block Dart and I built a motor for a friend and he ran it dry on the freeway. The results are catastrophic and its not worth the extra wasted pressure. If you look at these motors and how they were designed you will see that the engineers didnt put HV pumps in from the factory for a reason.

 

[railrider]

Makes sense just never had it happen. Guess the Mopar Gods were smiling down upon me! lol I have an 8 quart pan on mine now, but still went with stock pressure Melling pump. These are good oiling engines. Not like a Ford Cleveland! ot:

 

[Garts1969RR]

When I install the rear main seal, I use the side strips, and then I apply black RTV sealant on the edges between the seal retainer and the block. On the outside . Also generous amounts around the area where the pan, seal retainer and block all meet up. Let it dry for a day before starting the engine. Good luck.

 

[droptop]

The only time I use a high volume pump is on a worn or "loose" engine. As long as you don't keep the rpm's up for a long period of time, like on the freeway, you should be good.

 

[69hemibeep]

The only time I use a high volume pump is on a worn or "loose" engine. As long as you don't keep the rpm's up for a long period of time, like on the freeway, you should be good.

Or heavier oil. :yesnod:

 

[JJRJR]

Guys, I know I'm chiming in here late, but for what it's worth. When I first took my 383 to the dyno, it had major leaks at the rear main seal. We found a piece that I think Mopar Performance makes, it's a metal thingy that helps with the seal. I don't think it was a stock part, so wanted to see if you're using this part. Don't know what it's called, but I can find out. My engine builder found one on eBay.

Thanks, John.

 

[Basketcase]

When I install the rear main seal, I use the side strips, and then I apply black RTV sealant on the edges between the seal retainer and the block. On the outside . Also generous amounts around the area where the pan, seal retainer and block all meet up. Let it dry for a day before starting the engine. Good luck.

welcome to the site. pop up to the intro section and tell us about you and yours. and post up 40 or 50 pics for the site pic whores....

 

[RoadRunnerJD]

I always use a high volume pump and never had a problem with a rear seal. I buy the rear seal kit from Mancini with the factory like sidestrips and two piece rubber crank seal. You have to soak the side strips briefly in mineral spirits and install them promptly because they expand a little. I never gunk the retainer up with RTV but like to use a little (very little) smudge at the bottom of the side seals. You may have a problem with the crank surface being worn or nicked?