generals roadrunner motor

[69hemibeep]

Sounds like a nice reliable build! Headers?

 

[generaljmwlee]

no gary gave me a set of HP manifoilds

 

[Big John]

I've done the Glyptol myself years ago. Trick is to clean the block with lacquer thinner (or similar) to make sure it sticks. They use this stuff on all sorts of electrical motors without any problems.

The theory was that the oil would drain back faster. I don't know as it does, but it does look nice. I think I used it because I read about doing it... and my Dad had given me a spray can of it, so I had to use it on something.

 

[generaljmwlee]

used clear powdercoat on the intake just to help keep it clean,and factory gray hi-temp powder coat on the exhaust,even got the exhaust mounted.quick question is I use stainless steel bolts to mount the intake do i want to use antiseize or lock tite? I was thinking antiseize

 

[george68hemirr]

motor must have been redone right before me because cylinders were round and not even a ridge from the pistons[/quote]

I cheated had the machine shop do the bottom end and redo the heads,all i did was put it together. block had been cooked,honed, new freeze plugs, and cam bearings. crank was ground ,was all installed with clevite bearings,and new rings(just a stock bottom end)the heads were cooked ,resurfaced 10thou, newguides and valves, harden seats . all that for under a grand but it took 2 months to get it back
now I put a comp extreme cam one step up from stock,with their lifters and double roller timing chain.stock rocker set up stock replacement edelbrock alum intanke and a 1406 edelbrock carb. mp electronic dist conversion. and a mellings oil pump. dont think I left any thing out. wanted to keep it close to stock and hopefully I will get ok mpg and beable to run no more than mid grade gas. what do you guys think?


motor must have been redone right before me because cylinders were round and not even a ridge from the pistons

WELL THATS GREAT....SOUNDS LIKE IT GOING TO BE BAD ASS AND I BET YOU CANT WAIT TO HEAR IT SCREAM.....WHAT COMPRESSION YOU RUNNING??

 

[generaljmwlee]

10-1 was stock correct? 10 thou off heads dont know what if any that would do for compression

 

[george68hemirr]

10-1 was stock correct? 10 thou off heads dont know what if any that would do for compression

i would say your going to run 93 octane....not the mid gas either

 

[generaljmwlee]

[/quote]
i would say your going to run 93 octane....not the mid gas either[/quote]
at least it wont be racing feul needed

 

[mcmopar]

used clear powdercoat on the intake just to help keep it clean,and factory gray hi-temp powder coat on the exhaust,even got the exhaust mounted.quick question is I use stainless steel bolts to mount the intake do i want to use antiseize or lock tite? I was thinking antiseize

I've never used anything on the intake bolts - other than some RTV maybe to insure no oil walks up the bolts.
You may want to remove those manifolds before you drop the engine in. I'm not sure you'll get it down in the hole with the manifolds in place. Anybody know if the assembly will go in from above with the exhaust manifolds in place?

What cam are you running? I know you've probably answered that one already. You may be able to run it on less octane than you think. I'm running TRW pop-ups (rated 11:1 ratio with open chamber heads) but with my cam and the rest of the setup I can get by running on 87 octane - and its not a dog either. Its just a matter of getting your timing set up correctly. You can always play around with it after its up and running to see just where the sweet spot is for that engine.

 

[generaljmwlee]

the bolts that I am using for the intake are stainless steel was worried about the different metals seizing to the head

 

[mcmopar]

I used an ARP stainless set of bolts in my 440 I had in my '71 Charger SE and never had a problem. If anything, the stainless bolts seemed to have less "bite" in them because they were so smooth! It seemed I had to tighten them up more often than a regular bolt. If you go with lock-tite make sure it's the kind that will allow you to remove the bolts - not the permanent stuff.

 

[Basketcase]

that lookssweet! I'd say it be awful tight with the manifolds on, better takem off before install.

 

[generaljmwlee]

the plan is to install the motor next weekend ,and try to tap and plug heat riser this week, next question is do you think the motor is too heavy to use a plate that mounts to the carb area to lift the motor with an alum. intake? just dont want to rip the plate off and have it land on the car and make a big headache.

 

[mcmopar]

I put the engine in place and then install the intake afterward just to be on the safe side - but that's just me. 650+ lbs is a lot of weight to put on 4 small manfold bolts.

 

[generaljmwlee]

thats what I was thinking . I have tabs to bolt to the head I ll do that then put the rest on

 

[Basketcase]

I've used the plate with a stock manifold. but that was when I was younger and dumber and I was just working on an old car not a classic so I don't know if I'd do it now or not but give it a shot but i might use and extra chain just in case the studs pull out of the aliuminum intake but what could go wrong?

 

[69hemibeep]

I found the car lighter than the engine

 

[ACME A12]

What a great picture... Hopefully one of the MoPar rags will do an article on the car and will use some of the pics you've taken along the way to tell the story. I'm over all of the "Mr. Smith purchased the car in terrrible condition, dropped it off at XYZ Restoration Shop, wrote some really big-A$$ checks, sent a transporter to pick it up two years later, and now it sits in his game room between the Ferrari Dino and his '70 LS6 Chevelle SS Convertible with air conditioning (one of none - but he doesn't know that and as long as he keeps writing checks no one is going to tell him...) serving as an exquisitely restored drink holder for his imported Chardonnay" stories...

:jester:

 

[moparchris]

What a great picture... Hopefully one of the MoPar rags will do an article on the car and will use some of the pics you've taken along the way to tell the story. I'm over all of the "Mr. Smith purchased the car in terrrible condition, dropped it off at XYZ Restoration Shop, wrote some really big-A$$ checks, sent a transporter to pick it up two years later, and now it sits in his game room between the Ferrari Dino and his '70 LS6 Chevelle SS Convertible with air conditioning (one of none - but he doesn't know that and as long as he keeps writing checks no one is going to tell him...) serving as an exquisitely restored drink holder for his imported Chardonnay" stories...

:jester:

You know Dave?

 

[moparchris]

I put the engine in place and then install the intake afterward just to be on the safe side - but that's just me. 650+ lbs is a lot of weight to put on 4 small manfold bolts.

I have used one many of times. I never had any problem with it. If you look up what it takes to pull the threads out of that intake, 650 lbs. would seem like a feather. Now with that being said I now use some lifting straps from Crow Enterprises. It takes two and they are $15 each. The cool thing about them is that they are made of nylon strap which wont scratch and have nice machined ends to bolt to a cylinder head very nicely.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

Plus they are called sprint car slings, so you they are bad ass. It makes my engines feel more manly.