Engine just shuts off

[Terry Hauck]

OK, this is making me crazy. The engine runs great and then it's like you just turned off the key. If you let it sit for about 10 minutes it fires back up and runs fine till it decides to die again. It has the early electronic ignition with the orange box. I have checked the wiring and changed the coil, same problem. I have also been experimenting with different carburetors, not for the shutting off reason but for performance reasons and it does it with all 3 carbs. Suggestions please.

 

[V.R.D]

check for voltage before / cold then check when it die's see if voltage is the same. at coil / ballast / ignition box and bulk head

 

[Ranger]

Check the ground on the orange box, or better yet, swap it out with your spare and see if that solves the problem.

 

[quikbird]

Check your fuel line routing to see if heat is causing vapor lock

 

[Terry Hauck]

Check your fuel line routing to see if heat is causing vapor lock

I will but it I can see fuel in the sight windows and the squirters work when it dies.

 

[quikbird]

Challenging. These old cars can be frustrating

 

[Russ69Runner]

Have you considered the distributor. Do you have point's or electronic. Your pickup in the distributor. On points the condenser could be bad. Don't figure. Sound's like your getting fuel. So has to be in the electrical. Might check to make sure your getting power to every thing. Just my Two cent's. Good luck hope you find the prob. Nothing worst than electrical issues.

 

[Ranger]

Wish I had a spare. Looked into buying one but Summit wont have any till July.

Might try one from Rick.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2242350961...rTw9p4%2BwVVLLMUvIOc|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675

 

[V.R.D]

Might try one from Rick.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224235096181?_trkparms=aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20201210111314&meid=e6620c8c81344a67bcdfc1e3a3151f83&pid=101195&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=324359397806&itm=224235096181&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum:224235096181e6620c8c81344a67bcdfc1e3a3151f83|enc:AQAFAAACANOboZfW6qKCkS%2Fml9wS8BZmN5%2FTOVeJxhC6JLRjUHhrP4Wt1oh8Cc2%2BLap9iTEqZVvBNKTqSKclnepkamge4cDPeOkQydUzCfBSGAnZYBeX4Ka%2F06Jna36KzdWz3U30HQ5h353upv5EBc6iOd3%2BoKtgo1FQJnaupimd0fpcwfA1pb5LDG1nhWJJ19%2BQomitTFr5xPVD4v8Nk0ogEeac%2FD6mGvLxLYPficmghfQYAXhe6QRbtcU7g%2BuCPV%2BBBMzCafEdB119KJ%2BW6OZDLEvskEasAy%2BNDYD%2B1bLijbLDN6OiRDiur61zwaS8nAS6JtE%2FFOSP%2BaEURHl4Uw4CsDcL4jkJBxiypL4vy2vwoiDzfj3Li1Oeoq4bg0QT%2FIy3EAZcU9jeVWAHXieJNI3lGqz1IkH12CRMh2lZ2WwJRXMjLU4yBSTUXX%2F3JcTWIEiS3gqfPeQIDtFjRSOuHzMQLgh6sbe9r2HdNOpsGW02IJNLPx8iCC4Z06JWMyxU9%2Fx7jjoWWsCd73mw%2BVNwymgZOWKOcnmYK%2BI3GJGhioEzUtPZFR69MaT2G2L6UXPuw1CVdxsuPGqXO1vEMB172j1JVFBn3FL3PGnlFA47S4aaddjJzFls8wRlpy%2B2lkrXJPIX2mzYPz707Nyw9Ja6uIh5sk4j4QDdGsrTw9p4%2BwVVLLMUvIOc|ampidL_CLK|clp:2047675

if you go to you tube and find my mopar they have factory training videos to learn how test instead of just changing parts.

 

[Terry Hauck]

if you go to you tube and find my Mopar they have factory training videos to learn how test instead of just changing parts.

Yes. I have been doing that. The problem is I have to drive it till it dies then check it on the side of the road. Everything checks good while it's idling at home. Intermittent problems are the worst.

 

[V.R.D]

so let it run for the amount of time it takes . that is the best way to find the problem . drive around the block as not to be to far from home . take the d.v.o.m with you

 

[V.R.D]

Yes. I have been doing that. The problem is I have to drive it till it dies then check it on the side of the road. Everything checks good while it's idling at home. Intermittent problems are the worst.

 

[V.R.D]

 

[Terry Hauck]

Update. I made the connections on the ballast resistor much better and I also made the orange box and the engine grounds better. I drove it for about 40 minutes with no problems. Maybe it was just a bad connection or grounds. I will try it again tomorrow.

 

[V.R.D]

as said form others hear . ground's and connections will make a part look bad but testing for power and ground with a volt meteor will tell you what the circuit is doing . always use dielectric grease will help connections stay cool and prevent corrosion.

 

[RonLiv]

Sounds like problem solved!

 

[Terry Hauck]

Sounds like problem solved!

Let hope. Well time to move on to the next problem, front brakes, radiator, gas gauge, steering, guess I can pick one out of a hat.

 

[RonLiv]

Let hope. Well time to move on to the next problem, front brakes, radiator, gas gauge, steering, guess I can pick one out of a hat.

Oh my. Sounds like you have some issues, but you're at the right place. I just went through a front brake debacle, thinking it was a simple brake pad fix, something I can do, turns out the rotors needed machined and the caliper was broken, the latter two above my pay grade. But it's back on the road.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Let hope. Well time to move on to the next problem, front brakes, radiator, gas gauge, steering, guess I can pick one out of a hat.

Gees Terry that is a list for sure. One thing then the other. How long have you had the car? Did you restore it?

 

[Terry Hauck]

Oh my. Sounds like you have some issues, but you're at the right place. I just went through a front brake debacle, thinking it was a simple brake pad fix, something I can do, turns out the rotors needed machined and the caliper was broken, the latter two above my pay grade. But it's back on the road.

Lucky you with disc brakes. Mine are drum and they pull left this time and right the next. I want to upgrade to disc but changing spindles is above my pay grade.