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Electric Fuel Pump

JJRJR

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zupanj said:
I am using a Carter P74029 and it works very well. Not noisy but you can hear it if engine is off. It is set at 7 psi so a regulator is not needed. I wired it to a toggle switch with a 10 amp fuse in line. I still have my mechanical pump on the engine and a vapor separator. I don't think that is a filter as it only has a screen. I only use the electric pump if I haven't run the engine for a week or so. It primes the carbs and then I shut it off and run off of the mechanical pump.

I would not put a filter between the fuel tank and pump. That is a set up for a low pressure area at the pump inlet and potential for cavitation. If you feel the need for a filter I would put it on the pressure side of the pump or downstream somewhere.


The good news is that we are using a high quality oil with zinc, I think Amsoil? (sp) Gary changed the oil and tore apart the oil filter and no metal at all, so I don't think the cam is wearing down. Also, we broke the motor in on a dyno with break in oil (diesel??) so don't think that's it. I'm getting some mixed signals on whether or not to add the fuel filter between the tank and the electric pump. Mallory instructions say it's mandatory as do some other guys I've spoken to, but some also say not to? Can I get some more opinions on that issue?

Thanks guys,

John
 

zupanj

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I just looked at the directions on-line for the Carter pump. It says pretty clearly to put the filter between the tank and pump. I guess that is the way to do it. Still seems backwards to me but what do I know.

I would be careful and not use a 10 micron filter or something like it since you are pulling rather than pushing the liquid through. A very small pore size requires a lot more pressure to move through and this may cause cavitation because the pressure differential is high. A normal flow fuel filter should be OK. You just need to trap the beaks and feathers after all.
 

JJRJR

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zupanj said:
I just looked at the directions on-line for the Carter pump. It says pretty clearly to put the filter between the tank and pump. I guess that is the way to do it. Still seems backwards to me but what do I know.

I would be careful and not use a 10 micron filter or something like it since you are pulling rather than pushing the liquid through. A very small pore size requires a lot more pressure to move through and this may cause cavitation because the pressure differential is high. A normal flow fuel filter should be OK. You just need to trap the beaks and feathers after all.


Thanks, yes the Mallory filter they say to use is 40 Microns and I'll still have one in the engine compartment between the pump and the carb. That should do it?
 

bigmanjbmopar

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Silly question here...is your new cam hydraulic? If so did you replace your stock fuel pump push rod with a brass tipped one?
 

JJRJR

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bigmanjbmopar said:
Silly question here...is your new cam hydraulic? If so did you replace your stock fuel pump push rod with a brass tipped one?


Cam is hydraulic (Comp Cams) and I don't know (but doubt) that the stock push rod was replaced. Unfortunately, the guy that built the ending passed away. We are pulling whatever rod is in there and going electric, but I'll ask Gary once he pulls the rod if it's a stock or a replacement.

Is it common practice to replace the stock rod?

John
 

JJRJR

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JJRJR said:
bigmanjbmopar said:
Silly question here...is your new cam hydraulic? If so did you replace your stock fuel pump push rod with a brass tipped one?


Cam is hydraulic (Comp Cams) and I don't know (but doubt) that the stock push rod was replaced. Unfortunately, the guy that built the ending passed away. We are pulling whatever rod is in there and going electric, but I'll ask Gary once he pulls the rod if it's a stock or a replacement.

Is it common practice to replace the stock rod?

John
Meant to say, built the engine, not the ending. :)
 
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