Drum Brake Adjustment

RR383

RR383

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How much drag on the drum is required before the tire comes to a stop? I always thought this was like a go-no-go type of feel. But each of us has a different feel.

What is method the correct?:huh:
 
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I always adjust them just to the point of drag and then back off a hair.

I just bought a brake drum gauge for the next time to make it easier. Should have bought the damned thing 40 years ago.

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Ranger said:
I always adjust them just to the point of drag and then back off a hair.

I just bought a brake drum gauge for the next time to make it easier. Should have bought the damned thing 40 years ago.

s-l1600.jpg
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So your "drag" is a complete revolution of the wheel/tire....please explain further. Is this inside/outside slide gauge used to check wear???
 
it should be a light drag. it should not be difficult to rotate like the brakes are being applied. best bet is to tighten until wheel is tough to turn and back off a click or two. apply brakes with pedal to center shoes for a more even adjustment.
 
RR383 said:
So your "drag" is a complete revolution of the wheel/tire....please explain further. Is this inside/outside slide gauge used to check wear???
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I have always adjusted them so there is no drag.

The gauge is used to adjust them, not check them for wear. Use the inside to measure the drum and then use the outside to set the shoes. I bought it over the winter so I have yet to use it, but will very shortly. IF there is no offset and the outside setting results in a slight drag, I'll back off a click or two. It just saves putting the drum on to check it and removing it to adjust over and over until you get it just right.
 
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Ranger said:
I have always adjusted them so there is no drag.

The gauge is used to adjust them, not check them for wear. Use the inside to measure the drum and then use the outside to set the shoes. I bought it over the winter so I have yet to use it, but will very shortly. IF there is no offset and the outside setting results in a slight drag, I'll back off a click or two. It just saves putting the drum on to check it and removing it to adjust over and over until you get it just right.
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So you don't adjust the star wheel via the oval access port @ lower backing plate with the tire mounted?
 
No, I adjust it with the drum off when I check the brakes and grease the bearings. I have adjusted them that way years ago, but I find it easier and more accurate going in from the front. Plus I always forget which way to turn that damned star wheel.
 
If the car has manual adjusting brakes, I pay a little more attention. I get the wheels so they just start to drag.. you can hear it more than feel it. If it has the automatic adjusters, I get it same way... But I figure the automatic adjusters are going to set them where they set them and not get crazy about it.
 
Big John said:
If the car has manual adjusting brakes, I pay a little more attention. I get the wheels so they just start to drag.. you can hear it more than feel it. If it has the automatic adjusters, I get it same way... But I figure the automatic adjusters are going to set them where they set them and not get crazy about it.
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Yup! That's worked for me forever. If the drums have been turned and you can find someone that still does it, have the shoes "arc ground". Much more shoe to drum contact, almost total contact when applied!
 
Coyote said:
Yup! That's worked for me forever. If the drums have been turned and you can find someone that still does it, have the shoes "arc ground". Much more shoe to drum contact, almost total contact when applied!
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That's the way to do it but most places no longer have the machine to do it anymore. I let them wear to fit now.
 
Yeah, that's what I did last year with the fronts, though I don't think an arc grind would be hard to do yourself. Another reason why I want to readjust them soon, now that the weather is breaking.

P.S.
I probably should have said that mine do not have the auto adjusters.
 
Ranger said:
Yeah, that's what I did last year with the fronts, though I don't think an arc grind would be hard to do yourself. Another reason why I want to readjust them soon, now that the weather is breaking.

P.S.
I probably should have said that mine do not have the auto adjusters.
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If a 69 runner has self adjusters they were added later in life.
 
Seems like it may be more appropriate to revive this thread than to start a new one so here goes.

I adjusted both front brakes til the drum just barely fit over the shoes with no drag. Had them within a gnats ass of each other. Drove to the first car show of the year yesterday and wouldn't you know it, it pulls to the left. The odd part is that it seems to get worse the longer I drive it. Shoes, wheel cylinders, MC and rubber brake lines where all replaced last year. Drums look smooth. I cannot recall ever having so much trouble getting a car with drum brakes to stop straight. Though it doesn't seem right, assuming my initial adjustment was accurate, I'm going to go out and back off the left side a notch or two. Can't think of anything else to try. It is almost like the left side is getting more pressure, but I can't see how that could be. Oh yeah, they've been bled at least a half dozen times. If anyone has any ideas (other than switch to disc brakes), I'm all ears.
 
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i would back both off evenly so the wheels spins free. if the right gets warmer than the left it will fade and the left will work more that the right. also, if this changes nothing take a look at the rear adjustment.
 
Neither was dragging. Both side spun free. I made sure of that with the adjustment last week. No fading involved here. This was low speed 40-50 MPH easy stops.

Today I backed off the left side 3 "notches". Took it for a short spin and had just the slightest hint of a pull upon initial brake engagement, almost imperceptible, but stopped straight. If it stays like this I'll be very happy. A longer trip will tell for sure.
 
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I always adjust it close with the drum off then fine tune it after I drive it around the block. When installing the shoes I drop the shoe on the ground to decrease the radius and then the first time you hit the brakes it bends the metal backing with the force of the wheel cylinder. My shoes wear much better since I started doing that. Also getting the drums the exact same size is crucial when machining them. These few tricks stop my car reliably at the drag strip pass after pass at over 100mph with no problems. Hope that helps.
 
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