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Driveline upgrade

quikbird

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Yes it does. Getting down to small stuff like bleed brakes and clutch and one big one; getting the exhaust system reinstalled
 

RKNRLR

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So the new trans mount I got is also too tall, leaving the trans and the GV unit up way high in the tunnel. So this Saturday, we'll be cutting out a section in the bottom of the crossmember - effectivley allowing the trans mount to shift up or down as required. We'll then slam the box in, and the trans will (hopefully) push the mount down through its positioning box, at which point we'll tack a plate in place to show the new mounting height of the trans mount, and then burn it into place.

Seems straight forward.
 

69hemibeep

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When I talked to the GV tech some time back he said to elongate the 4 mount holes so it hangs 1/4" lower. I take it that's not enough?
 

Russ69Runner

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Know that has to be frustrating. So it is not a simple install after all. Know you will get it in come hell or high water. Bigger hammer.
 

RKNRLR

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When I talked to the GV tech some time back he said to elongate the 4 mount holes so it hangs 1/4" lower. I take it that's not enough?
For some reason, in my case, it is definitely not enough. The holes are so far off that you cant see through them at all. We ended up fabbing up the little bucket that holds the trans mount about 3/4 inch lower, fitting the unit and the cross member, and then shimming above the trans mount to see how much higher we had to take it. I thought better if the bucket is lower, we can always shim it up, but if its high, it would all have to come out again.

Also had to make a notch in the top of the cross member, where the lower spine of the GV unit was clashing. boxed it up and it finished real nice.
In the end, not too crazy a mod to the cross member, but definitely more than was called for in the GV literature. Don't think it was their fault though, how much can you trust a car geometry that you didnt put together yourself?

As for clearance, i took a pry bar to the tunnel, and just massaged it out slightly. I ended up with about 1/4 inch at all the tightest spots. My trans tunnel is not pristine like some of the cars you guys have, so maybe something to think about before you go down this route. thumbnail_IMG20200711103407.jpg thumbnail_IMG20200711103413.jpg thumbnail_IMG20200711110737.jpg thumbnail_IMG20200711110750.jpg thumbnail_IMG20200711110757.jpg thumbnail_IMG20200711110809.jpg thumbnail_IMG20200711110815.jpg thumbnail_IMG20200711110914.jpg
 

RKNRLR

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Oh and just for a laugh, the GV unit now sits in EXACTLY the same position as the X-pipe of the exhaust, so now theres that to look at.
 

Russ69Runner

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Sorry to here that. Get one thing figured out then something else has to be done. It look's good to me. All that hard work payed off. Russ.
 

RKNRLR

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Cheers Russ. I am really itching to drive the car the last couple of days. Probably because I can feel it is getting so close.
 

RKNRLR

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Took the RR out last night, finally kicked the Gearvendors OD on, works great.
Cruising at 60mph, I'm at 3000rpm. Running 4:10's with 275/60R15's. Kicked the GV on, revs drop to 2200rpm, great improvement for highway driving.
Definitely likes to be changed with your foot on the gas, alot smoother than without.

Accomplished exactly what I was after, peppy off the mark with 4:10's, easy cruising on the highway for long drives.
 

RKNRLR

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F
Sounds like it was worth the money, time and effort.
For the price of a 2nd hand Hemi 4 speed and the Gearvendors, I probably could have gone with the Passon 5 speed or a tremec. But I really like the stock look and feel.
I also wired the switch to the high beam foot switch, which makes it both easy to change and not another big red button in the console.
 

RKNRLR

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Not the first to ask. No they dont, nor does the little red warning light come on next to the speedo anymore.

But I was thinking about rewiring them to the cigarette lighter position. Around here, high beams must function for pink slip each year.
 

MoparDan

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View attachment 30184
Up in the air and ready to start
View attachment 30185
Rear axle out
View attachment 30186
tail pipes are next
View attachment 30187
New triangulated four link rear suspension. Will be attached to Dana 60 new rear axle
You need to get rid of those traction bars. B Body rear ends are not centered on the spring like Ford and GM's so traction bars do nothing. They actually screw up the geometry. Your rear end is already drilled and tapped for a pinion snubber if you need it. Unless you just like the look.
 
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