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Disc Brake Conversion

1BADBIRD

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Anyone do a disc brake conversion using factory parts? I have a setup from a 73 Duster and was wondering will this work or what else would I need? :popcorn:
 

Big John

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Here's a good article. The only exceptions are the conversion to the larger brakes uses a Cordoba caliper adaptor and rotors that's are bit hard to find and some people have used the 69 sway bar by mounting the calipers at the rear and using a 72 Monte Carlo brake hose.

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html

I'm doing the brake conversion using the 11.75" discs, but in hindsight, I would probably go with the 10.75" discs if I had it to do over again.
 

1BADBIRD

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So the 73 Duster disc brake set-up will work? Or am I going to have to track down other parts?
 

george68hemirr

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i did the aftermarket disc set-up....the wife says why do you need that for the car.....so i say...TO STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!....these women are something ..ha
 

droptop

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1BADBIRD said:
So the 73 Duster disc brake set-up will work? Or am I going to have to track down other parts?

That should be all you need. I have heard that you have to change the upper control arm also. But others have said that this is not necessary. I guess it just depends on how much movment you have when you have the front end alignment.
 

moparts bob

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I think that the best how to article was a Mopar Action piece called stop on a dime. I did the conversion with the 73 up A body discs and went with the later 11 7/8 R body rotors and the
2 pin caliper that takes the #39 pads. I do have 15 inch wheels. You can use the complete
73 Duster set up and be done with it. You do not need the upper control arms and your
lower BJ is the same as the Abody with disc. The only thing to be aware of is that you may have sway bar clearance issues. The back of the caliper piston may hit the end link tab on the lower control arm. If it does either lose the bar and cut off the tabs or swap spindles from side to side and reroute the brake hose to the back of the caliper. I've heard a 15 inch one works. This is a good time to get a 3 piece stainless set from like Russel. They cost about 50 bucks and will give you a better safer brake system. You will need a adisc brake master and an adjustable regulator for the rear. The cost can be high if you use name brand stuff like Raybestos and Wagner. The rotors are available cheaper (chinese) and the loaded calpipers were not expensive but you will eat the core charge. I went 73 B body 2 pin which is considered superior to the floating A-body one found on that 73 Duster. Basically you need the caliper brackets for which ever rotor you use. 79 R body rotor needs 79 R body brackets.
Good luck and it was well worth it. No more boiling brake fluid after the 3rd run at the track.
The price of the pieces cost me about 375.00 bucks. Kits are only a little more but you usually end up with GM calipers/pads.... :wave:
 

1BADBIRD

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Does this setup change the front wheel (rim) offset I just put new wheels on the car and did not think about it. :rolleyes:
 

Big John

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1BADBIRD said:
Does this setup change the front wheel (rim) offset I just put new wheels on the car and did not think about it. :rolleyes:

It shouldn't as long as you are using Chrysler stuff.
 
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