Disc Brake Conversion

[Gene Martin]

New member from Mississippi.
Just acquired a 69 RR, 383, automatic. Considering a disc brake conversion on the front end.
I would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions on this.

Thanks

 

[Rapid Transit]

Power brakes?
Do you have lower control arms already?
DoctorDif.com is a good source.
Since you probably will have to buy rotors and caliper adapters anyway, go with the larger disk.
However, 14 inch rims will not clear
I tired the smaller rotors with a manual braked B body and it wasn't good.
Larger rotors and his master made all the difference.
I would go ahead and get the adapter which ever way you go for an aluminum master cylinder.
Power or manual.
I've used original 70s A body combination valves with good results.
The ones Inline tube sells MAY have a problem.
I tried one and found it was missing a drilled bypass passage which caused "chatter" in the lines.
That's the only thing I could figure.

 

[RAINMANYEH]

Classic Industries, jegs, year one, summit racing have several options. You could check into the OE disc brakes from early 70s era.

 

[Anthony69Runner]

Dr.Diff is the way to go. I’m doing a front and rear disc conversion now. He has great support, will answer all your questions.

 

[dmartin]

Welcome from the peach state with the wave, if you are going to use the old style upper and lower control arms find a salvage yard that has the front spindle and brake calipers and rotors all together from a 85 Chrysler Fifth Avenue I promise every thing will bolt right up but you have to buy the rubber brake hoses for the Fifth Avenue cause the road runner brake hoses will not match up, that’s what I have on mine works great

 

[Plybeep68]

That's pretty much what I did to my 68,, robbed everything off a late 70's Lebaron

 

[Russ69Runner]

That has to be cheaper than buying those expensive one that they sell now day's and have heard that they give you problems trying to install.

 

[Gene Martin]

Classic Industries, jegs, year one, summit racing have several options. You could check into the OE disc brakes from early 70s era.

Thanks--Will explore original disc brake option as it was a factory option in 1969.

 

[Gene Martin]

Power brakes?
Do you have lower control arms already?
DoctorDif.com is a good source.
Since you probably will have to buy rotors and caliper adapters anyway, go with the larger disk.
However, 14 inch rims will not clear
I tired the smaller rotors with a manual braked B body and it wasn't good.
Larger rotors and his master made all the difference.
I would go ahead and get the adapter which ever way you go for an aluminum master cylinder.
Power or manual.
I've used original 70s A body combination valves with good results.
The ones Inline tube sells MAY have a problem.
I tried one and found it was missing a drilled bypass passage which caused "chatter" in the lines.
That's the only thing I could figure.

Thanks a bunch--very helpful suggestions.

 

[Rapid Transit]

I have a set of M body spindles but haven't "had" to use them yet.
I've always had A body ones on hand .


https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0503-swapping-a-and-b-disc-brake-spindles/

https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/brakes/disc-main.html

 

[69hemibeep]

Your Allpar article says to stay away from the F/J/M body spindle as they are a little taller

 

[quikbird]

Never had a problem with the stainless steel brake kit I used, bolted right up.

 

[plazomat]

New member from Mississippi.
Just acquired a 69 RR, 383, automatic. Considering a disc brake conversion on the front end.
I would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions on this.

Thanks

I know I am late to this party..

I did mine with e/a body front spindles, e body rotors and pin calipers. Add a front sway bar and car handles so much better, much more confident driving a 50 yr old car in modern day traffic.

I tried a few manual master cylinders before I got the brake feel I wanted.

I would recommend you rebuild the front end while you are in there - car just feels awesome now..

Plaz

 

[Rapid Transit]

Your Allpar article says to stay away from the F/J/M body spindle as they are a little taller

I'm leaning towards using a set of A spindles just because I have them and the Hot Rod article says it will have a slightly lower roll center than the FMJ ones.
I don't know if it matters since it says unless I'm racing that won't be noticed.
I looked again and both go into negative castor ( bad thing)just above ride height with only .25 inch difference with advantage to the FMJ I think.
I do my own alignments now with the Fast Trax system and some swivel plates.