D day- back where the Bird is stored on Thursday!

[SomeCarGuy]

Well, the heater box is back in, not as fly as if Mac had done it, but it's in there.

Dash lights now work, but dome light is MIA until I firgure out a bypass that won't keep it on or pony up for a new dimmer wheel.

Aftermarket temp gauge should be working tommorrow, I finally figured out how to get it through the firewall w/o drilling a new hole. Talk about a project. Had to take out speedo cable, trunk mounted battery wire, then fish it all throgh and get them resituated.

I painted the pass side cowl vent area with ZeroRust while I had the box out. Should keep it from having long term problems, was starting to show some light scale.

Figured out I have a broken control cable on the heater controls, of course this is after I ordered stuff from YO, so I will be screwed on shipping again. I have a new engine harness on the way that will fix all the underhood wiring I don't like. I will also be installing the new alt with the March quasiserpentine belt system. Will be running the newer style voltage regulator along with using the Mopar electronic ignition still but this time it is built in to the harness like it was factory.

I have a new VR made by MP that looks factory coming as well. I found the best deal was at Jegs, especialy since they carry the Russell SS brake hoses I like, in fact they are only 60 bucks now, they used to be 75! It isn't listed that way online but if you call it is the deal. You have to make sure you get a set for a drum brake car(mine is anyway) even if you have OEM type discs up front. For some reason they send line to fit Wilwood type calipers even though the OEM calipers take lines like the drums cars. I learned that lesson a few cars ago.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Oh and I hope that MP regulator isn't China crap. It really wasn't much more than a generic one from the local parts house so it is worth a try, I will carry a spare like I usually do anyway. I just think it will look better underhood than a cheapie looking chrome one.

 

[mac]

man!! you are flying on this project. i think your avatar will need an update soon.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

I've got a lot of stuff in line to do in life in the next year or so. Right now this project is front and center because it may go into storage again soon :jail:

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Well this sucks.

I went and hunted up a used wiper arm today. While out looking for it, a guy told me the car was leaking. It appears to be from a head bolt or head gasket. :brickwall: Car never runs hot.

I did get the wiper arm. On the way home I noticed that the hood was shaking a bit. Then I remembered I had a rubber bumper set so now that is fixed.

 

[hotrod98]

Would love to see more pics of your car.
I rebuilt the 383 in my 69 runner last year and it kept leaking coolant at the passenger side, rear exhaust bolt. After a couple of failed attempts at stopping the leak, I finally coated the bolt with that two part J-B weld type stuff and it worked...for now.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Yeah, I need to get some pics taken. I've got a firend that details cars, might get him to go over it and then take some.

You mean you cold welded the bolt in? Or do they make a sealer also :huh:

 

[mac]

Well this sucks.

I went and hunted up a used wiper arm today. While out looking for it, a guy told me the car was leaking. It appears to be from a head bolt or head gasket. :brickwall: Car never runs hot.

I did get the wiper arm. On the way home I noticed that the hood was shaking a bit. Then I remembered I had a rubber bumper set so now that is fixed.

try this on the threads.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... _Maker.htm

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Thanks. Looks good, I'll have to get some, all I have on the shelf is the blue. No way that will last

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Had trouble taking off old mufflers so they had to stay :brickwall:

Found leak that isn't a wiper seal, it is either the windsheild gasket or most likely the cowl area is rusted where it comes into the cabin on the drivers side. Will need to take the vent out and have a look see.

New alt and pulleys are going on, looks sweet so far, had to do quite a bit of work for an out of the box deal. Not bad but it held up the show.

Fan is now turned around.

Thinking aboiut installing an aluminum raditator while it is down.

Trying to decide what to do about the leak at the oil pump. Might match the parts back up from one I cabbaged when I tossed the external line.

Had trouble finding a new lower hose. :brickwall: That ticks me off. May have trouble finding the belt I need tommorrow as well, only store that will be open is the one that didn't have it today.

 

[mcmopar]

Well this sucks.

I went and hunted up a used wiper arm today. While out looking for it, a guy told me the car was leaking. It appears to be from a head bolt or head gasket. :brickwall: Car never runs hot.

Try to find a factory stud if you don't have one in there. They have a little shoulder on them at the end of the threads which help to seal the water jacket when they are turned all the way in. If you use a standard bolt for your headers or exhaust manifolds you need to use a sealer or you'll get at least one of them leaking every time. It will rarely leak while the engine is off but it will definitely leak once the engine is on due to the pressure in the system. Been there, done that. After awhile the leak tends to plug up on its own but it takes awhile. I just used Ultra Blue or Black RTV. You can also try teflon tape but it may not work so well since it gets so hot. If you JB Weld it you'll never get that stud back out short of drilling it and putting in a Heli-Coil.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

I had to break the cooling system so I will try some sealer. I think the spare 440 I have still has the studs, might rob some of them.

I knew the ends were wet, I aways knew that for some reason. I didn't know that the center was also so more than likely I just screwed them in there dry.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Got a lot sorted out today. Will have to take care of some business the next few days. Need to order some stuff again.

When I'm not sleepy I will post the mess the new pulley set caused but I think the results will have been worth it.

Also got the bolt off that was holding up the torque strap install!

Got a line on using a lift to install the new TOB.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

I got a ton fixed today. The new pulleys are installed, I got that bolt out of the engine mount so the torque strap is in now.

The temp gauge works, the fan is on correctly now so it actually clutches- you can hear it engage.

Took out header bolt and sealed it. Put new oil pump on to take care of leak ue to mismatched cover.

New alt seems to have taken care of chargin problem but it makes me wonder about the wiring taking the power.

Bad- new problem with the tranny. The nut on the clutch adjustment seems to have burrowed into it's little bushing. I'm going to start a post on it in the tech section.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

The latest round of work helped a bunch. I can't wait to get the new wires on it and really finish getting under hood wrapped up.

New TOB should be here tommorrow.

Need to find a shorter fan clutch.

Might try hotter stat next time I break the system. Car never gets over 180 now. Might be a good thing this summer but I wonder if it held at 195 it would be better for the oil to burn off crap in it and maybe burn up fuel better for better milage and wear.

Strange rattle started tonight. SOunds like a metallic ringing on the drivers side. Kind of comes and goes.

Logged 150 or so miles today and got 14.25 MPG.

 

[Basketcase]

the metal ringing might be your exhaust hitting the frame

 

[SomeCarGuy]

That is what it reminds me of.

I also wonder if that crappy reverse light harness has come untied. I strapped it up for now since it was in really sorry shape.

 

[Basketcase]

that everse switch harness is somethin else I gotta get.....

 

[SomeCarGuy]

TOB is in. Damn that tranny r&r sucked. Smashed finger. Forgot my tricks so it took extra time and cuss words.

New shorty fan clutch should be in tommorrow, here's hoping it works

Need to ecide if I will keep OEM shifter in or use longer Hurst stick I have. I tested it some before I took the tranny out and it seemed OK but I'm not sure if it will be better. If anythign I would think the longer stick would lead to longer throws. May have to measure that and see. Any opinions?