69hemibeep
Sponge Bob Square Wheels
That's the same cam I put into a 383 auto runner a few months ago. You will like it ! I don't know that it would even run 180 off.
Cam
- Thread starter Ranger
- Start date
Ranger
Well-Known Member
That's is good to hear.
P.S.
Good to be able to talk to someone who has done this recently.
I'm sure it wouldn't. I was wondering if it was possible for them to have installed the can sprocket 180 degrees off. I'm now unsure if after I finish taking it apart and install the new cam, should I put it back the way it is or try to put the timing marks the way they are supposed to be? It's gotta be right the first time. I DO NOT want to have to take it apart and start over again (if I can get this broken bolt out).
Ranger
Well-Known Member
Spoke to a buddy on mine who is no stranger to replacing cams. Apparently the marks are correct.
Back to the broken bolt. It's VERY stubborn.
Back to the broken bolt. It's VERY stubborn.
Ranger
Well-Known Member
Finally got the broken bolt out. Last attempt to MIG weld a nut on the stud worked like a charm. Backed it out with little effort. Guess I need more practice with a MIG welder.
I know I need to put assembly lube on the lifters & cam, but how did you handle the lifters? Did you just lube them externally or did you somehow fill them with oil? I had considered soaking them in oil overnight, but then I'm not sure how that would affect the assembly lube adhering to the bottom.
Ranger
Well-Known Member
Got everything out yesterday.
New can & lifters showed up today.
Had to pull the grill to get the cam out. What a bitch!
New cam and distributor is in and timed.
Lifters are soaking in oil. Will finish replacing the grill tomorrow, install the lifters and with any luck, get it buttoned up.
Then I never want to see another cam again as long as I live (except for the two I have to sell).
New can & lifters showed up today.
Had to pull the grill to get the cam out. What a bitch!
New cam and distributor is in and timed.
Lifters are soaking in oil. Will finish replacing the grill tomorrow, install the lifters and with any luck, get it buttoned up.
Then I never want to see another cam again as long as I live (except for the two I have to sell).
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Wipe the lifters off before you install them. Don't dip them in oil just before installation. You may wipe the sides with a thin film of oil then apply a dollop of assembly lube on the bottom of the lifter (the surface that rides on the cam) and install the lifter. Button it all up and fire it up. You want assembly lube on the lifter as well as the lobe.
Ranger
Well-Known Member
Too late. Lube on the lobes and the lifters where submerged in oil overnight and dropped in.
Buttoned up today. Cranked, but no start before the battery wore down. Battery is being charged and will attempt a start tomorrow while tweaking the distributor.
Murphy was at my side for the entire job. After I sell the two I have, I never want to see another cam again.
Buttoned up today. Cranked, but no start before the battery wore down. Battery is being charged and will attempt a start tomorrow while tweaking the distributor.
Murphy was at my side for the entire job. After I sell the two I have, I never want to see another cam again.
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
If it is not acting like its going to start you may have to remove the distributor, rotate the shaft 180 and drop it back in. You don't want to crank it a long time without firing it.
Ranger
Well-Known Member
Once I had the battery fully charged she lit right up. I had 17" of vacuum opposed to 3 or 4. I think that's part of the reason for the quick start, but once again Murphy stuck his $.02 in. and cracked the bottom rear corner of the right bank cast aluminum valve cover, so I had a pretty good oil leak and had to shut down after :05 0r :10 min.. JB weld seems to be a very strong repair, so I'll reinstall it today and take it for a :30 min ride and hold it about 2000 RPM for a break in. Looking forward to it to see how much the driveability is improved.
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Nice. I wouldn't trust J.B. Weld forever though. I had the same problem with my MP cast aluminum valve covers. I got a set with a corner broken off (fortunately the broken piece was included with the covers. I took them to a shop that welds aluminum and they fixed it right up for $40. Of course they had to strip the paint off (black wrinkle finish) so I stripped the other one and repainted with VHT black wrinkle paint and they came out looking great.
mahoney0_00_3
Well-Known Member
or change the rear? a 355 would be a nice set up
Ranger
Well-Known Member
JB Weld did not hold when tightened. I had tried to have it welded first, but he looked at it and said it was cast aluminum and therefor not weldable. I just bit the bullet and ordered a new set. Lesson learned. Don't trust factory torque spec's on non factory items........................and get Murphy out of the garage.
Too late to mess with the rear end, but I am very happy with the 3.23. Wouldn't think of changing it. Very nice highway gear 2300 RPM @ 60 MPH. Pretty nice MPG for a car of that vintage with a motor that big.
Ranger
Well-Known Member
New valve covers arrived yesterday. Took it out for it's break in cruise today. Ran a good :30 - :45 min. at 2000-2500 RPM. Ran like a charm. It was like a whole different car. I actually enjoy driving it now.
Cold starts are almost immediate with the new cam. I suspect that is due to the 17" of vacuum vs 3" with the old cam.
Hot starts are a bit more difficult, but I believe that is because of the gas boiling in the cab and percolating through the vent tubes into the manifold. Not sure why it's doing that, but I
guess I'm either going to have to add a few more gaskets or a heat insulator gasket. Any thought or preferences?
Cold starts are almost immediate with the new cam. I suspect that is due to the 17" of vacuum vs 3" with the old cam.
Hot starts are a bit more difficult, but I believe that is because of the gas boiling in the cab and percolating through the vent tubes into the manifold. Not sure why it's doing that, but I
guess I'm either going to have to add a few more gaskets or a heat insulator gasket. Any thought or preferences?