Alternator gauge just went on vacation...MMMM!

[woodwiz]

Hey there “72” well that about sums up that. Thanks! So based on info I have gotten from other inputs, Why did so many Mopars burn up on the side of the road over the years? After what I saw when I got up in the dash at the ammeter area with mine being burnt looking for who knows how long my connections were loose and creating heat,more so because they were loose and rattling on the housing. Like you said some people added stuff to the circuit stereos,lighting etc. that probably drew on that system creating heat issues. I’m just thankful that I’m aware of this weak link.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

So based on info I have gotten from other inputs, Why did so many Mopars burn up on the side of the road over the years?

I would strenuously challenge that assessment, never saw it on any correctly loaded untouched or correctly maintained Chrysler products at the dealers back in the day or since. Not many untouched/correctly loaded electrical systems in the Mopar’s that survive now are there.

I’ve been owning and working, professionally and otherwise, on these cars since the early seventies, never saw the “spontaneously combusting ammeter” issue some folks claim. Every problem I saw with ammeter connections was traced to some previous poor servicing, neglect, loose or over-tightened stud nuts, crushed/damaged insulators, twisted stud heads damaging the ammeter internal bus to stud connection. All of which add resistance, resulting in heat and even more resistance. Or incorrect loading of accessories directly at the battery placing the entire charge circuit well out outside of its original design limits.

 

[woodwiz]

Had this mopar back in 75 and wouldn’t have given the issue a thought. But now that I know and am more concerned I guess I have to keep telling myself that this system could still be original and 50+ years old and tired,or been messed with by whomever prior to me. I ran a 10ga wire from the alternator stud around to the starter relay side near the bulkhead and attached another Fuseable link to it (all nice and tight and insulated) and then attached it to the starter relay(red). Took the car for a lengthy drive and did not feel the heat as before in the spliced ammeter wires under the dash and upon return did not see any heat issues with the run wire and fuse link on the firewall harnesses.
Now I already stated that I’m not electronics qualified whatsoever,so have I created a ticking timebomb or like the YouTube demo showed that this wire with fuse link hooked up to the relay will take a load of the heat away??

 

[woodwiz]

Here are some pics of both fuse links (green) from the alternator and the dark blue was on the car when I got it.
The blue fuse link as you can see attached to the center harness and the green attached from the black wire from the alternator. The harnesses do not show signs of heat or melting. Someone ahead of me must have known about this issue and installed the dark blue fuse link,if not factory. If I do install the new ammeter gauge I may leave the green fuse link in place just to see if the circuit creates heat.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Blue fusible link is the factory link. If you are going to leave “underhood by-pass” in place, no point in replacing the ammeter, it will no longer function correctly. You would need to troubleshoot the high current condition routing through the original charge path, correct that issue before removing the by-pass.

 

[woodwiz]

At this time I’m leaving it as is for now. If I should have an extra 2k laying around I would go with the Dakota digital dash,but until that happens I’ll just keep an eye on this beauty!

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

I had one of those,

One of my current money pits.

 

[woodwiz]

Best money ever spent! My time machine!

 

[woodwiz]

Hey guys does anyone know what the two wires(red) that seem to be paired together that look that they may have been added at some point or maybe factory.?

 

[woodwiz]

So sorry they are black with red insulation.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

That plug should run to the reverse lamp switch on the transmission, jumped like that would have the reverse lights come on with key-on. Have you checked your reverse light operation?

 

[woodwiz]

Well my shop guy jumped that connection at the transmission and got the backup lights to light. Otherwise they do not light…another story for another time. Old cars Old problems!!

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

After a closer look at one of your other pics, different angle, it appears that is not a jumper. Looks to me like someone has replaced the original NSS/back-up light trans harness with something home-made. Light blue wire (connected to the starter relay at the NSS terminal, original color-code was/is brown with a yellow tracer) is taped up with the black reverse lamps switch wires. If those leads run the NSS switch at the transmission, and you have lights when jumped there, indicates the switch is bad.

 

[woodwiz]

I checked the harnesses and all look good. Those 2-wires (blk) from the top harness join up with the blue wire which connects to the starter relay and the (blk) wires run down to the switch at the trans. The switch looks new and was told works internally when trans was just serviced. Might be worth trying another switch.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

If the two outer terminals of the NSS/backup switch plug are jumped together, key-on, you should have back-up lights. If you do, it’s a switch problem. If the switch is new, check for an old seal doubled up between the trans housing and switch/seal, should be just one seal. If the switch doesn’t seat all the way in, it can mess with the switch function, have seen more than once.

Yea, someone made up a harness, not factory connections/wires. Likely other connections like that near the switch if a short lead aftermarket switch pigtail is in use.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Looks like you need to get new wiring harnesses and clean up all the stuff that has been hacked on. Put everything back to original and that will solve a lot of your problem's. Bought a point less distributor all electronic off summit racing. Still use the ECU and blast resistor in the circuit. This could be causing a lot of problems with the Amp meter in the dash. New under dash harness might be a good place and your under-hood wiring. All the plugs should be original to make sure you have a good connection to the bulkhead connector. Just my two cents'.

 

[roadrunninMark]

I've put in a voltmeter in place of the ammeter. I've done it on my standard dash and a charger rally dash. Here is a pic of the charger pod, with the sticker is looks factory...

 

[roadrunninMark]

How to thread for non rally, starting at post #11... https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/volt-gauge-conversion.28529/
Its been a few years but I think you use the same for rally. Just get new stickers for the gauge..