A833

[4spd69RR]

Well I am 0 for 2 when it comes to re-installing the transmission. This A833 is becoming my Nemesis. This is my first 4 speed trans I have ever installed. Everything is aligned, and it seems the trans pinion shaft when it meshes with the pressure plate it gets stuck. I figured it would just slide right together. What is the trick to this? Do I need to place more lube on the teeth of the pressure plate? Or more in the bushing. It came apart easier than it is going back together.

Jeff

 

[Big John]

Do you have the correct spline clutch plate?

 

[4spd69RR]

Yes I do, check that first before I install it.

 

[sixgunrunner68]

Is it hanging up at the pilot bearing?
Is the bell housing concentric with the crankshaft? Sometimes offset dowl pins need to be used.

 

[Basketcase]

any dirt,rust on the input/ clutch splines? how are you supporting the trans? trans jack,blocks, or "free hand"? the trans has to be at the right angle or it won't go in. I use two long bolts, going thru the top two holes of the trans into the bell. I don't have a trans jack, and I just have the trans on blocks. and make sure the pilot bushing hasn't been boogered up. and do you have a clutch alignment tool? I used to have a spare input shaft. If thwe clutch plate isn't aglined, it woun't let the trans slide in.

 

[zupanj]

I had one instance where a plastic alignment tool had a little too much play and the pilot shaft of the trans hung up for the last half inch or so. We had the engine out so we used a prybar to move the clutch fork enough to disengage the clutch while two of us pushed the trans into place. Your clutch alignment may be off just a tiny bit.

 

[4spd69RR]

My alignment tool move pretty free in and out. The bell housing is still installed never took it off. I am using a two ton jack. After thinking about it I may have had the pinion shaft not centered into the bushing. I did check the bushing just a few minutes ago and it looks fine no damage. I did see where the pinion shaft was pressed above the bushing against the crank. So this tells me that I did not have it centered right. What I think I need is a better jack to support the trans while I'm installing. Will try it again when it cools off alittle. Thanks for everyones input it helps.

 

[Basketcase]

I've never been smart enough to get a trans jack. the easiest way I've done it is with the two long upper bolts. they support the trans, and you can hold onto the tailshaft and wiggle it in. and 9 out of 10 ten times I've done this by myself.

 

[4spd69RR]

I will definitely your suggestion in mine when I go to install again. I also do all my work by myself so any hint will help out.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

A trans jack is nice, but for an 833 it is no biggie to go with a regular floor jack.

Lock it in two gears. That will keep the input from spinning and you can find the right way for the splines to line up.

Have a helper push the clutch in.

Don't pull it up with the bolts. It will slam home when you get things right. Remember that a little angle out where you can see it at the trans, translates to a major offset by the time you follow it up to the input shaft end.

 

[RoadRunnerJD]

You should not have the clutch linkage hooked up nor be trying to push the clutch in while doing this. You need to drop the back of the motor down and the clutch linkage will bind and be in the way. Put the clutch linkage in after you get the trans in. With the rear end higher than the front so that you can slide it in on a floor jack, and with a bottle jack under the bell housing ear of the block to keep it off the steering link and to adjust the height of the block to get it level with your trans ( you can also use two long all-thread rods to help keep it lined up and help get the gap between the trans and the bellhousing even all the way around during the process. I assume you have a yoke in the back of the trans. Jiggle the yoke while you slide the trans forward slowly with a floor jack, it will fall right in. Sometimes I put the 4th gear lever in gear but usually you don't need to. If you have the gap even all the way around, the input will line up with the pilot bushing. That's the key. Once you get it close enough for your trans bolts to engage the threads, you can use your bolts to pull it in but again, get the gap even and it will slide in. If it's hanging up on the front bearing retainer for the last 1/2", the bolts will draw it in.

 

[4spd69RR]

Thanks for the advice, I have not attempted it again since I post last. I definitely removed all the linkage even the throughout fork. I plan on trying again with a newer jack with a larger support platform. My jack I have had for the past twenty years has seen its better days and it is always a fight to keep it pumped up. It likes to slowly bleed of with weight.

 

[Basketcase]

you sisys use a jack..... :acme: :jester: I use the bolts to help draw the trans in, but only if there isn't much effort, that means it's on a bind.

 

[RoadRunnerJD]

If you are doing it by yourself or even with help, you have to use two jacks to get it lined up with an even gap. A bottle jack under the back of the engine for fine adjustment and balance the trans on a floor jack to roll it in. I leave the aluminum shifter plate on the trans. It's a little tricky getting it past the crossmember brace. I did it often back in the day. The hardest part is to get it up on the jack and balance it. You'll get it.

 

[69hemibeep]

Put it in gear, bench press it and use my knees on the tail shaft. I do have two bolts with the heads cut off in the lower holes to help guide it and in case I need to rest. Getting under it is the hard part :basketcase:

 

[Basketcase]

naw...getting back up is the hard part. used to be easy.......

 

[moparchris]

Put it in gear, bench press it and use my knees on the tail shaft. I do have two bolts with the heads cut off in the lower holes to help guide it and in case I need to rest. Getting under it is the hard part :basketcase:

I used to lay on my side and give it a nice hug :grouphug: then roll over and push it up and in. That was back when I was too dumb to use a lift.

 

[abodybill]

The easiest way I found:

1-Put the Runner on the hoist in the shop.
2-Put the 4 guide bolts I cut the heads off into the bell housing.
3-Have my sons put the tranny on the hydraulic tranny jack.
4-Pump up the tranny jack with left foot till correct height is made.
5-Push tranny jack with tranny strapped to it in bell housing over 4 guide bolts till it is set.
6-Remove for guide bolts and install new tranny bolts and torq to specs.
7-Unstrap tranny move jack to tail shaft and install cross member.
8-Done.

:acme: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

 

[moparstuart]

Put it in gear, bench press it and use my knees on the tail shaft. I do have two bolts with the heads cut off in the lower holes to help guide it and in case I need to rest. Getting under it is the hard part :basketcase:

are you installing it or making love to it :facepalm: :banana:

 

[moparstuart]

Put it in gear, bench press it and use my knees on the tail shaft. I do have two bolts with the heads cut off in the lower holes to help guide it and in case I need to rest. Getting under it is the hard part :basketcase:

are you installing it or making love to it :facepalm: :leg: :leg: :leg: :leg: