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A4 69 project

mcmopar

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I've spent the last couple of weeks trying to sort out what works and what doesn't work before I begin the teardown. Someone previously wired in electronic ignition, but used the 2 prong ballast. They also put in a newer alternator with 2 field terminals but only 1 of them was wired. The lower pulley was a 4 groove, the water pump pulley was weird (probably not mopar) and the alt pulley was a 2 groove with a/c brackets mismatched. It kept throwing belts, so I rummaged up the right set of single groove pulleys and that's all set. I bout a harness from year one converted to electronic ignition and newer alt/voltage regulator and she's charging now!
Headlights work, horn works now, turn signals work, heater blower works now, flashers don't work yet. Radio doesn't work, I have a spare I'm gonna try this weekend.
I have decided to go with my 440, I'm gonna start tearing it down this weekend. The 906 heads will get stainless valves and new spring and retainers. The guy at the machine shop wants to put larger valves in, any input on this? I still haven't decided on a cam, any input on that would be more than welcome as well!
I have bought a 69 bellhousing, and have a fresh 4 speed. I will buy a flywheel and clutch soon and put everything into the car in a month or so to work the bugs out.
My goal is to have the bugs sorted out and the car stripped to a bare shell by spring so I can haul it off to get soda blasted. I will then make any necessary metal patches, epoxy prime evrything, and paint the undercarriage, trunk, and floors. I will then turn it over to a pro for block sanding and exterior paint.

If the engine is remaining basically stock stay with the standard size valves. Bigger valves won't help unless you improve the valvetrain (bigger cam), do some porting on the heads and run a set of headers. In fact, bigger valves in a basically stock engine may actually hurt performance. If you do decide to make some upgrades and decide to run oversized keep the valves at 2.14" intake and 1.81" exhaust or maybe 1.84". Going too big can hurt the flow and reduce performance.
There are lots of good cams out there. Comp and Hughes Engines are well known for their Mopar specific grinds. You will need to make a plan concerning the engine: type of use (cruiser, street strip; strip/street - where will it spend the majority of its time?) power output, driveability, etc, etc. You need to write it all down and then shop for appropriate parts. Does you plan require an aftermarket intake and carb? Headers? upgraded exhaust? Stiffer gears and upgraded suspension? Upgrades to the cooling system? All these things need to be considered and addressed. Suddenly it becomes a lot more complex than just a simple rebuild! If you intend to remain mild on the build a lot of these considerations will be rather obvious but you still need to make a plan and stick with it because if you don't you are going to spend a lot more time and money on the project than you need to.
Sounds like a fun project. We will be looking forward to hearing and seeing how it all comes together!
 

Moparnut

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Here's how I drove the car to break in the drivetrain- it's a good thing I live in the country!
The motor is a 68 440HP with KB 236 pistons, 906 heads, balanced bottom end, and a Comp Cams XE275 cam- .525 lift int and ex.. It idles surprisingly well, but turns on nicely with the 4 speed and 3.91s.

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Basketcase

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yeah being in the country has it's advantages, we get to see mud trucks,fresh out of the strip pit going down a state hwy,derby cars,quads, all kind of stuff.
 

Moparnut

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Fresh paint!

IMG_20130906_110939_131.jpgIMG_20130906_110418_167.jpgThe rest of the body parts were painted off the car. It should be wetsanded, buffed and assembled this week!

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