A little WARM!!

[woodwiz]

Hey guys! Just put in a new underdash harness and all appears to be hooked up right and also a new ammeter gauge. With the previous harness the fire hazard that it was i only had the fuel and oil pressuure gauges working,now they all work. The gauge in question is the temp gauge which mysteriously started working with the new harness. I've been on 2 different drives and i notice the temp gauge quickly climbs to say 170* a half mile down the road and then starts upwards to 200* then 230* then bounces to 250* then back down to 230* well you get the idea. The gauge is new and it just did'nt work on the old harness and when i get back and the car is idling in the garage and i put the laser temp reader light on the upper water pump housing i'm getting a hot 230* and also on the sending unit. I know that a new aluminum radiator is a possible solution but i'd like to start small for answers and go from there.
Any ideas where to start....I just replaced the thermostat with a 160* from 180* and left a little bit less coolant for heat expansion.
Any thoughts or solutions??
Thanks in advance!!

 

[MoparDan]

How old is the water pump? I was working on an engine that was running hot after the owner replaced the usual suspects, thermostat, sending unit etc. Running the engine with the cap removed and revving the engine showed little fluid movement. I replaced the pump and all was fine.

 

[woodwiz]

I shall try that….it’s free!
Thanks!

 

[MoparDan]

I shall try that….it’s free!
Thanks!

Make sure it's at temperature so the thermostat is open

 

[woodwiz]

Tried running it at temp after the 160 thermostat opened and revved it a little and fluid flowed. But seeings how this might be the original radiator (just a guess),but it does have the Chrysler logo and stamping I’m leaning towards an aluminum unit that will cool better. A spendy item these days. Flushing and cleaning might be a waste of $$’s.

 

[MoparDan]

Tried running it at temp after the 160 thermostat opened and revved it a little and fluid flowed. But seeings how this might be the original radiator (just a guess),but it does have the Chrysler logo and stamping I’m leaning towards an aluminum unit that will cool better. A spendy item these days. Flushing and cleaning might be a waste of $$’s.

Check the temperature difference between the top hose and bottom hose, if the top is hot/warm and the bottom is cold the radiator is the restriction. You used to be able to get them rodded out, but I don't know anymore.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Do you have a fan shroud. I run a 160 thermostat. Like the way it stays under 200 degrees. But in heavy traffic and stop and go it does get up to the 200 or above. They just don't like sitting in traffic. LOL.

 

[MoparDan]

Do you have a fan shroud. I run a 160 thermostat. Like the way it stays under 200 degrees. But in heavy traffic and stop and go it does get up to the 200 or above. They just don't like sitting in traffic. LOL.

Good point Russ. I forget about it because I assume everyone has a shroud.

 

[woodwiz]

I will do the upper/lower hose temp check tomorrow. I just installed a 160 thermostat and it does have the factory fan shroud and 7-blade fan. Asked that question to my mechanic buddy and he said some radiator shops may still rod them out and pressure test,but in these days of big buck repairs it’s just not worth it.
Was looking on EBay at 70RR/383 with auto trans radiators that are factory replacements in aluminum and thought at $300.00 why not! But then I went to the idea that these are imports and what kinda life do they have in them.
Just can’t manage 1K for the ones at Classic. Opinions on the $300 vs 1K ?
Any other thoughts!
Yes these motors run hot,especially in the desert city traffic.

 

[MoparDan]

I will do the upper/lower hose temp check tomorrow. I just installed a 160 thermostat and it does have the factory fan shroud and 7-blade fan. Asked that question to my mechanic buddy and he said some radiator shops may still rod them out and pressure test,but in these days of big buck repairs it’s just not worth it.
Was looking on EBay at 70RR/383 with auto trans radiators that are factory replacements in aluminum and thought at $300.00 why not! But then I went to the idea that these are imports and what kinda life do they have in them.
Just can’t manage 1K for the ones at Classic. Opinions on the $300 vs 1K ?
Any other thoughts!
Yes these motors run hot,especially in the desert city traffic.

As far as the 300 one, Why not? I would look at a 4 core. I would love to be able to afford a Ron Davis radiator, but it is hard to justify the money for a car that will stay in the garage as much as it is driven.

 

[woodwiz]

All the ones at Classic state (exact fit). Those are a grand by the time you unbox it. So yeah why not when every indication is it is made to fit for $300.00 I never had plans to drive it like a daily driver. Back in the day it was my only driver. So I may pull the trigger on the aluminum $300 but only after I do all the other checks and see what a re-do would be on my supposed original one. I think the re-do cost will be higher than $300…so that will make the decision easier.

 

[MoparDan]

All the ones at Classic state (exact fit). Those are a grand by the time you unbox it. So yeah why not when every indication is it is made to fit for $300.00 I never had plans to drive it like a daily driver. Back in the day it was my only driver. So I may pull the trigger on the aluminum $300 but only after I do all the other checks and see what a re-do would be on my supposed original one. I think the re-do cost will be higher than $300…so that will make the decision easier.

They sell a 22in and a 26in. If it was me, I would get a 4 core 26 inch. But I'm sure you know that.

 

[quikbird]

Don’t cheap out on this one. Get the best you can. It does make a difference

 

[MoparDan]

Don’t cheap out on this one. Get the best you can. It does make a difference

I'll agree.....to a point. The cost is not always a guarantee of quality. I bought a 4 row 26in all aluminum TIG welded radiator with a life time warranty for $305.00 on EBAY and it will cool 512 Stroker. Now it will be awhile before I know how well it will work. But I'm betting it will cool well.

 

[V.R.D]

i just went thru this check if there is junk in the top of the rad tubes lower the fluid level and see if you see rust flakes in the top of the tube. so i spent 900 on a griffin as the champion did not cool as much as i wanted. i installed a coolant filter and the stuff i cought with the filter well it saved the rad from pluging the tubs. my car runs 210 in stop and go traffic with the a/c on in Florida 100 temp day driving down the road 185 im so happy with the griffin rad i would buy it again.

 

[woodwiz]

My buddy also was advising a Griffin, but at 1K that’s not reality at this time. I did the run up to temp with the cap off and revving the engine could see fluid flowing. Then I shut down and the radiator burped a lot of coolant,an unplanned mess! But I did look inside and saw the exposed fins and tubes had little chunks of debris which tells me it’s time for repair or replace…Thoughts?

 

[V.R.D]

get this

Summit Racing SUM-390170 Summit Racing™ Coolant Filters | Summit Racing

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then take the rad out and fill with rust remover bath fill thru the lower hose to fill the top of tank let sit for an hour or two then drain and see if the rust flakes are gone if not repeat.

 

[V.R.D]

if you cant afford a griffin rad then save up then buy it don't waste your money on a cheep part i did and regret it.

 

[Carl Ray]

You dont need an aluminum radiator with your setup. The original can be cleaned out or core replaced and it will be fine. I run a stock radiator on my 69 w/AC and never get above 205 on a 100 degree day. No need to buy new original from Classic.

 

[RonLiv]

I don't have a temperature gauge, other than the one on the dash, so I just don't worry. LOL Most of the time it's a 1/4 of the way over. Hot days sitting still it will get to 1/2 way, then go back once moving again.