71 road runner resto.

[Russ69Runner]

You say no body filler. Even with new panels and roof had to use a skim coat when block sanding the car. Their is no bond O in the car but like it is to get those panels straight You have to use something to level them out. ?

 

[mopar jack]

yep gotta drive em. Bought my road runner in 94 and it was my commuter until 2000. Drove the car 22 miles round trip everyday and put 60k miles on it.

 

[Russ69Runner]

From what I see it is fix able. These wind shield is a bad place for rust. They where not sealed very good. So when putting it back suggest to use the 3M glass calk. I saw on a U tube video how to put a windshield in a 69 supper bee. They put it under the gasket where it met the metal and around where the windshield fit into the seal. The car looked really good but finding hidden rusted part's is the thing that happens. Wish you luck on fixing it.

 

[Plybeep68]

Dont give up Jack, I have a 71 that is worse than yours in the cowl area, my buddy was stripping a 72 Challenger and the cowl area is similar so I save it to rob patch panels from, going to start on my 71 if I ever get the 69 done

 

[mopar jack]

AMD makes many parts for the E-bodies and I have a 71 cuda that I need to start measuring and talk to the metal fab guy for his opinion.

 

[mopar jack]

Pulled the pedal assembly from the fire wall today. While cleaning I realized the clutch pedal needle bearings are not caged and of course they proceed to start falling out, all 54 of them. Ordered a new set from Brewers and they claim the bearings should have a cage. So how do I pull the races and install the new ones? Also who sells new manual brake push rods? The end of the rod is actually bent and corroded. Are the adjustable rods good?

 

[Russ69Runner]

The adjustable rod's are good. Classic has them. So are they coming out of the Z bar. That Works the push rod to release the throw out bearing. It only has nylon bushings on the 69 runner's. To get it out access the nut through the fender well. Or are you talking about the top of the clutch pedal in side the car. If so the brake pedal and clutch are on the same rod mine has bushing's and not roller bearing's. Your year runner is different than the 69 runner's. May be if you call brewer's back they can give you a better answer. Hope this was some help. Don't want to steer you wrong and maybe some one else has a runner like yours on here that can be more help.

 

[mopar jack]

So with the car mostly stripped to a shell it looks pretty solid except the upper cowl and A pillars. It does have normal surface rust on the inner cowl and the inner roof. Any recommendations on prep and coating, maybe por 15 or something simular.

 

[Russ69Runner]

I would recommend using one part vinegar to 3 parts water. Use stainless steel wool only and rub it good till no more rust is coming out of the solution. Leve it on for 15 minutes then use fresh water and repeat the process. Clean it good Let dry the metal should have turned black during the vinegar process. Then prime. Some people have had problem's with the Pro 15. Ask Big block. I used Rust oleum rust converter then primed with epoxy on top of that. The Rust oleum has to sit 24 hours. This car of mine was a rust bucket. So did this to a lot of metal. Hope you get those part's made and welded in where it was rusted out. Even made some parts my self with a bead roller from east wood. Oxygen and acetylene torch. Metal brake and an anvil with a big hammer. lol.

 

[mopar jack]

Well car is going to a shop for metal/rust repair and body and paint. I will now need to make a decision on what color. This is never going to be a high dollar car and while I like the bronze it doesn't jump like the high impact colors do. I saw a 72 road runner in vitamin C years ago and I really liked it, so I'm leaning towards that color. Since I have a tan interior I think it will compliment the exterior just fine. What do you guys think?

 

[Russ69Runner]

That should look pretty good. The tan in side should not be a contrast. Are you going to paint it. Or is a shop doing the work. Is their sheet metal for that year car. I know where their is a 72 runner for sale but don't think I will take on another resto project any time soon. Getting to the point of putting thing's back on the car and that is much better than doing the metal work. Good luck on the project and keep us informed on your progress.

 

[mopar jack]

Hey Russ there is no metal available for the areas that need repair on my car. Fortunately the shop sees no problem with fabricating and patching the bad areas and they will be doing a complete paint job. Still looking for more opinions on paint color.

 

[quikbird]

dont restrict yourself to just 69 year colors. newer ones look good also. i like that new one synamon stick

 

[Russ69Runner]

The new paint's you can have a lot of choices. The pearls are really nice also. But it is up to the owner what he want. With my car put some micro royal blue flake in the mix to say that is my car out of all the rest. Have fun and hope every thing goes according to plan. Russ.

 

[Big Mo]

So with the car mostly stripped to a shell it looks pretty solid except the upper cowl and A pillars. It does have normal surface rust on the inner cowl and the inner roof. Any recommendations on prep and coating, maybe por 15 or something simular.

Hi mopar jack, I tried to coat as much of the metal as I could to try to prevent as much rust as I could. I done inside of doors, under the pop out windows ( 1968 car) floor. I hope it helps. I used Chassis Saver it was easy for me to get. Good luck and don't get discouraged in this, its part of this hobby. Big Mo.

 

[mopar jack]

Thanks for the tip Big Mo. I'll see if the body shop can blast those areas and epoxy prime it. If not I will paint it myself.

 

[mopar jack]

Built a jig to hold the dash frame yesterday and today I have it stripped. So now more decisions to make.Do I replace the instrument cluster or reinstall the after market radio? I bought the car 26 years ago and it had a non stock 8 track player and I replaced it with a cassette. My E body is an easy fix, just replace the lower bezel but the B body could be expensive.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Yes it is true one thing then another. We just have to move forward the best we can. You will get it figured out I am sure.

 

[mopar jack]

Since I have an old instrument cluster that hasn't been butchered I can change the whole piece or just change the fascia/bezel. Now the next problem, I can't remove the light switch and wiper knobs. Any tricks? I removed the set screw from the wiper knob still won't budge.

 

[Russ69Runner]

JB blaster and let it soak a few day's. If not then vinegar and water it may take several day's to work also. My buddy had a brake cable that cost 100 dollar's on a golf cart that was froze up. Put it into the tank of vinegar and water for about four day's. It freed up and used JB blaster to finish cleaning it out. It worked like a charm. Three part's distilled water and one part vinegar. It wont hurt paint.