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71 road runner resto.

mopar jack

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I have waited 26 years to freshen my road runner and it will probably take half that to finish. Just pulled the front bumper, valence and grill and I can't believe how Chrysler put it together. I plan on doing the 26 inch radiator change for future AC all new suspension components and a disc brake conversion. My goal is to get the engine compartment painted and install the drive train and suspension then do the body panels one at a time. I already have a question for the body repair guys, how can I pull the nose of the front fender out about 1/4 inch.

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Russ69Runner

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So what year runner is it. Why do you want to pull the front of the fender out. That will throw every thing else off. Chain reaction. Move one part and some thing else will need to move also. You can do any thing but may open a can of worm's.
 

mopar jack

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It's a 71 and it took a hit right where the impact pad is and caused top left edge to fold. I have some more pics but is hard to see problem. You can see the gap where the fender and filler panel meet, they should butt up tight.
 

Russ69Runner

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Ok got you. Now that is a tough place to work on. I would heat the metal and may be able to massage it back out. Like a piece of metal to fit in that area and lightly hammer it back out. Or like quikbird stated stud weld and a slam hammer. Too pull it. My rear quarter where it went over the inner frame was so tight it would not slip over. Had to bend it out then hammer it back to the shape I needed. I was sweating bullet's hoping I would not distort the rest of the metal. Think I would have the fender off and look from the back to see what it looks like from the area. May give you a better idea of what it need's. I have cut pieces of 3/8 inch flat bar and 1/4 inch to make tools to get into area's. Good luck better to fix it rite than do the bond O job.
 

mopar jack

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Well I picked the worst time to start a resto but being stuck at home gives me plenty of excuse and time to work on the car. The down side is I'm retired and live off my 401k which is now a 201k and it's hard to get materials as I need them. I managed to take the K-frame to a powder coater today and still maintain 6 feet of separation. Called my local paint and chemical supply and suggested that they could talk to me on the phone and place product in the trunk but they couldn't handle the billing?
 

mopar jack

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Quikbird, it did fold almost like a crumple zone. I think the rubber pad took the impact and rolled the panel so I might try to pull from the pad mounting point. Don't have a stud welder but may try to weld something on the edge of the fender that is covered by the bumper and not seen to pull on.

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Russ69Runner

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Metal dose have some memory. If you heat it that will help metal relax and can be molded back in to shape. It also help's in moving the metal. Just don't get it too hot.
 

mopar jack

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looking for lower grille fasteners on a 71 RR. Don't know what they are called.

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Russ69Runner

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You might look into parts mix if not then E bay. Something's are not reproduced yet. Wish ya luck on the search. :thumbsup2:
 

mopar jack

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Fresh on the grill 5 gallons of Evaporust! For the last 2 weeks our weather is low 40s at night and high 50s to low 60s during the day and it's really slowed down the parts cleaning and painting. So set up my grill to use hot water to heat a 5 gallon Homer bucket filled with Evaporust and it's going great but gonna have to wait for mother nature to paint.

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mopar jack

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Well I think I am at the cross roads of a Mopar resto. Started out to repalce motor, clean and paint engine compartment and fix battery tray area. I planned to have a dustless blast job to remove paint and undercoat from the rad support to the firewall. Everything is good until I pull the windshield trim and can't believe the rust that is hiding there. This is a California car and I have owned it for 26 years and it's been in the garage or under a carport all that time. I have the K member powder coated with the engine trans steering suspension and brake components all assembled and ready to slide under the car. To go forward will take a lot of money for repair and I'll need a way to transport the car to the metal fab shop. 20200416_091934.jpg 20200416_092019.jpg 20200416_091934.jpg 20200416_092019.jpg

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Russ69Runner

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I would see if they make that patch panel for the upper cowl area. Even on the 69 runner's they want to rust out in that area. The inner fender where the battery tray is not that bad. Can cut a piece of metal and weld it in their. When they press a piece of metal in the mold it make the metal thin where curves are. Did not notice till looking further it is rusted in the middle also. Had to replace my hole upper cowl and lower. Lot of work for sure. :(
 

mopar jack

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I contacted AMD and no patch panels for the cowl. They do have the rear deck filler which I should buy in case there is a problem back there.
 

quikbird

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This is fixable if you have a welder. While it looks very hard if you take it in small pieces it actually is not that difficult
 

Russ69Runner

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If you can get out that piece may be you can get some one with an English wheel to form that piece. I had to get a bead roller to make the A pillar bottom parts that went under the upper cowl. The help of an anvil and torch to heat it up. Made two pieces then welded them together and welded on to the pillar. That is a shame they don't have patch panels for the car. I say where their is a will their is a way. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. :thumbsup2:
 

mopar jack

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Very little rust anywhere else on the car, all floors and trunk pans are solid. the rear window channel has some pitting but won't know how bad until I can get the window out. The previous owner must have had an issue at the front window and had it totally filled with some kind or dum dum body filler body putty or caulking! I have been digging it out for 2 days so I can pull the windows. What a pain and it took half a day to pull the trim.
 

RonLiv

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https://richardmullincoachbuilding.com/

I know this guy, his shop is down the street from me. He'll make anything you want. He needs the car, or at a minimum the part, depending on the part. He works on primarily high dollar cars that wind up at places like pebble beach. But he recently did some work for a guy who wanted a pick up truck done. It is super high quality work, done to better than factory, but the piece will be factory. He ain't cheap. The pick up truck guy spent 3x the value of the car. Anyway, just throwing this out there.
 
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