droptop said:
Without seeing the tag and the placement of the "330", that would be my assumption too, Harold. 125888 should be the vehicle order number.
'70 RR 383 carb info
- Thread starter 62BT409
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Without seeing the tag and the placement of the "330", that would be my assumption too, Harold. 125888 should be the vehicle order number.
62BT409
Well-Known Member
Vin Tag
69hemibeep
Sponge Bob Square Wheels
330 = March 30 
62BT409
Well-Known Member
Re: '70 RR 383 crab info
69hemibeep...I know I "Quoted" the post but this not directed to you. I just want to reuse the numbers.
OK, I had the car to a person (the car has not been driven but about 20 miles since last posted.) It runs really bad. It will not idle properly and it runs so lean that you can stand around the car with out your eyes watering to the point you have to walk away. Keep in mind "I am not a carb man". So the person I took it too had the carb re-plated (looks really nice) it does somewhat idle better but still runs really lean....still your eyes water and my neighbors close their windows because of the smell.
"sskillett" and I worked on it for 3 hours - no improvement. I had another person that said "I know Mopar carbs"...and to my disbelief....he did impress me and really seemed to know what he was doing and looking at....BUT still no improvement short of tearing the carb apart.
Now the person who rebuilt and did the work on the car and carb is a two hour tow away. He would like me to take the carb off and send it to him. I'm not for that, I feel the carb and car should be looked at ...at the same time.
I didn't post this to talk bad about anybody....please keep that in mind.
But what I am finding out is that the 6160-1 carb that is on there is for a 440 and in maybe 71 & 72, also it seems that the R4368A is also for a 440 and in 71 and 72.
So, what is the real cab supposed to be? Now this is an unmolested car...supposedly. Anything else indicates this.
JB
hemp said:
69hemibeep...I know I "Quoted" the post but this not directed to you. I just want to reuse the numbers.
OK, I had the car to a person (the car has not been driven but about 20 miles since last posted.) It runs really bad. It will not idle properly and it runs so lean that you can stand around the car with out your eyes watering to the point you have to walk away. Keep in mind "I am not a carb man". So the person I took it too had the carb re-plated (looks really nice) it does somewhat idle better but still runs really lean....still your eyes water and my neighbors close their windows because of the smell.
"sskillett" and I worked on it for 3 hours - no improvement. I had another person that said "I know Mopar carbs"...and to my disbelief....he did impress me and really seemed to know what he was doing and looking at....BUT still no improvement short of tearing the carb apart.
Now the person who rebuilt and did the work on the car and carb is a two hour tow away. He would like me to take the carb off and send it to him. I'm not for that, I feel the carb and car should be looked at ...at the same time.
I didn't post this to talk bad about anybody....please keep that in mind.
But what I am finding out is that the 6160-1 carb that is on there is for a 440 and in maybe 71 & 72, also it seems that the R4368A is also for a 440 and in 71 and 72.
So, what is the real cab supposed to be? Now this is an unmolested car...supposedly. Anything else indicates this.
JB
A31PKG
Well-Known Member
Re: '70 RR 383 crab info
From your description, it sounds like it's running rich. Holleys are a snap to check and adjust float levels. It sounds like yours are too high. Of course, any number of things could cause the exhaust to be so bad that your eyes water... I would start with the float levels. Do you see gas dribbling out of the venturis with the engine idling?
From your description, it sounds like it's running rich. Holleys are a snap to check and adjust float levels. It sounds like yours are too high. Of course, any number of things could cause the exhaust to be so bad that your eyes water... I would start with the float levels. Do you see gas dribbling out of the venturis with the engine idling?
Hoosier Bird
Well-Known Member
What size jets are in the carb? :huh:
62BT409
Well-Known Member
Re: '70 RR 383 crab info
Here is a pic of where the gas was coming from, until a friend mentioned to tap the front bowl with a soft hammer.
Do not know the size of the jets, but did talk to builder today and he said they are what the spec call for.
A31PKG said:
Here is a pic of where the gas was coming from, until a friend mentioned to tap the front bowl with a soft hammer.
Do not know the size of the jets, but did talk to builder today and he said they are what the spec call for.
A31PKG
Well-Known Member
Run better after the hammer? If so, float was stuck causing the higher than normal fuel level. You may want to clean the bowls out as a precaution.
Beautiful car BTW!
Beautiful car BTW!
62BT409
Well-Known Member
A31PKG said:
It's not the fact that it ran better but the gas did stop flowing out of the vent. And also I believe the person who did the high $$$$ work on the carb should check it. It just a real inconvenience at this time to drag it 2 hr away to have this done. Can't find anyone I feel that knows old cars and old carbs, that's why the distance.
69hemibeep
Sponge Bob Square Wheels
I know its not convenient but get what you paid for or a refund for some of the work. Just curious what are you using for a fuel pump?62BT409 said:
62BT409
Well-Known Member
69hemibeep said:
Stock....what was on the 383
69hemibeep
Sponge Bob Square Wheels
I was just wondering if you had something high performance pushing fuel past the needle and seats that needed regulated.
moparchris
Well-Known Member
I have experienced this same situation before, a few times, and each time it was a cylinder that wasn't contributing its share. When they run rich it emmits CO (carbon monoxide), which is odorless. When it misfires it emmits HC (Hydrocarbon) which will send the neighbors running for the hills crying. I would go and check on the condition of the engine before you tow it 2 hours only for the carb guy to say it has a burnt valve. Which is by the way the problem with every engine I have come across in my travels as a smog/ driveability tech. The reason most people would say its running rich is that most engines misfire when running rich, which will make it stink.
62BT409
Well-Known Member
moparchris....
I understand what your saying. What I did do last weekend (when time is more free), I did a compression check on the motor and came up with a constant 125# to 130# across all cylinders. I thought this might give me an idea what is going on.
I understand what your saying. What I did do last weekend (when time is more free), I did a compression check on the motor and came up with a constant 125# to 130# across all cylinders. I thought this might give me an idea what is going on.
moparchris
Well-Known Member
That sounds very good, You probably have some kind of vacuum leak or something along those lines. I would definitely take the whole car to either a capable dyno shop or carb shop.
62BT409
Well-Known Member
That's were it is going Wednesday...and if that doesn't do it, I have an out at another "Mopar" guru Saturday supposedly and it is nearer. But I was hoping to have it corrected Wednesday. The wife wants to take her convertible to the BIG Starlite cruise next Friday night
mahoney0_00_3
Well-Known Member
remember that the gas they sell now is sh*t.I have three carter carbs for my 383 1969 model. ALL ran ok but the new one I bought from summit really ran great , It has the right gasket for the new fuel