383 Block

[Collin]

Maybe you guys should take to heart how a youngster like myself is so enthusiastic about his car and buy me a 426 hemi?

yeaaaaah right... :loco:

I wonder now if I should just look for a year correct motor, theres one on craigslist thats a 383 date coded from 69 has everything, is all apart for $500. Ill have to look around, hit up the mopar specialist near my house.

 

[ACME A12]

Maybe you guys should take to heart how a youngster like myself is so enthusiastic about his car and buy me a 426 hemi?

Sorry. Can't help. I just gave Basketcase my last $100 to help him buy that F8 Hemi Post car...

:jester:

 

[Collin]

Can someone help me out. My car is coded to have the 335 horse power 383. What exactly was added to the 330 horsepower 383 to bump it up that extra 5 horses? I have read that the 10.1 compression ratio stays the same, along with the torque (even if its at different RPM). I am wondering what I would have to do to my block to get it to where it was.


I also came across an ad...what do you guys think for price??

Mopar Dodge Plym 383 Big Block motor, date coded June, 1969 Complete from edelbrock alum. intake to pan, with steel crankshaft, all apart, also includes chrome 383 valve covers and matching chrome air cleaner. $500.

Would it be worth going from my 64 block to the 69, and using whatever components are on the 69 block? Or is it easy enough to do a couple small swaps to get similar results?

 

[moparstuart]

intake i think
the 335 horse should have a seperate intake and valley pan

 

[mcmopar]

That is a great price for an entire engine.
I believe the 5 hp difference beween the 330 hp engine and 335 hp engine could be the result of one or two things:
1) The camshaft. IIRC The 330 hp engine used a different cam than the "road runner" 383 335 hp engine. The road runner 383 used the 440HP cam which had 268/284 degrees of advertised duration on intake and exhaust with a 114 degree lobe separation and .450" intake lift and .455" exhaust lift. If I am not mistaken the the 330 hp engine used a cam that had 256/264 (or 268 - not sure) duration with .425" intake lift and .435" lift on the exhaust.
2) The windage tray in the oil pan. The 330 hp engines were not equipped with this piece of equipment which prevented oil from wrapping itself around the crankshaft like a rope at high rpm's.

All the B and RB engines used the intake valley pan gasket setup for the intake manifolds. Mopar was making "air gap" intakes for their big blocks long before Edelbrock got the idea for an Air Gap RPM for the mopar small blocks.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

My notes-

500 is WAY WAY too much for a 383, you can get a 440 for that if not cheaper.

The 452 heads have the hard seats but if you get a valve job done that hardening will be gone so you need to have new seats installed. Or just run whatever head and run the CD2 lead additive. It is cheap and I have ran it for years. It isn't as cheap as it used to be.

The differences in the 335 HP engine have been covered pretty well.

 

[Collin]

Update: I found a set of 906 heads on craigslist for $200. Deal or no deal....


heres the link! Dont steal them on me!! :toetap:

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/1302035664.html

 

[ACME A12]

Update: I found a set of 906 heads on craigslist for $200. Deal or no deal....


heres the link! Dont steal them on me!! :toetap:

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/1302035664.html

If you go to any good-sized MoPar swap meet you can pick up a set all day long for $100 or even less. The set that I just had machined for my new 440 only cost me $40 at the MoPars with Big Daddy swap meet last November...

:jester:

 

[Collin]

Ok so I havent been on here in a while, sorry! Been doing a lot of work thought! Quarter panels done, rear window channel done, rockers on both sides done, lower front quarter panel on driver side done......pulled fenders off the car and grille etc to finally address the inner fenders torn apart by the fender well headers.. So its time for the engine to come out and be worked on.

I know you guys answered my questions previously, But i just want to make sure of a couple things:



I have that '65 block....shuold I keep it and just add the 906 heads, since I do have my 69 intake and carb...or should I try to look for a 69 block?

You guys answered the question about the difference between the 330 horse and 335 hp, but just wanted to know if there was anything else I should know....

Are the cranks the same, the cams, the pistons etc etc....I have a pair of 906 heads that are a gauranteed swap, so thats taken care of, I have #s carb too, what else will I need to update this 65 block to 69 specs (or just change block??)

I know a lot of this is repetitive, but I just want to make sure before I put my engine in the shop, that the block and parts are worth sending in, instead of getting a diff. block etc etc....

 

[droptop]

In 1970 the 383 was dropped back to 330 horse by using a holly carb. I would go with the 65 block because you already have it, and you know what you have. The only way I would spend money on the '69 block is if it was the matching motor for your car.

 

[3BIRDS1X]

if you are going to lose sleep over not having a 69 block (of which you may actually need a 68 block by the way) now is the time to get one and put it in. If you are doing it to help the value of the car, the original one is the only thing that will help and since it sounds like alot has been changed already over the years you have alot to overcome. getting dated correct parts I don't think will add much value (perhaps it will sell easier) if none of thats an issue I would use the 65 motor then. In the end it's your car and you have to make it so you are happy with it. Not matter what you do unless it's a low mileage survivor car it can be picked apart, I like to think I have some nice stuff but it all can be picked apart if you were fussy but none of that bothers me, I would put it together low buck and have some fun with it.

 

[ACME A12]

I would go with the 65 block because you already have it, and you know what you have. The only way I would spend money on the '69 block is if it was the matching motor for your car.

X2

 

[Hoosier Bird]

I've got an extra 69 block if you just want to swap..........years mean nothing to me.............

 

[Collin]

Thanks fellas! I am going to pull the motor this weekend, and see how it looks. That will really determine where I go from here, Ill keep you up to date.

 

[Collin]

Hey guess what, I actually took a picture or 2!! Pulled the motor out, things went alright.....of course I found things wrong here and there. But at least some pics for you guys.

found that the pistons were labeled (sorry at work goin from memory) either 23069 p 30 or 26309 P 30.......either way Im guessing that its already been bored out 30, and still has some grooves worn in the walls, so a new block may be in order...... agree?? :huh:

 

[Collin]

I almost forgot, I have the original radiator from the car....numbers stamped on and everything, but the radiator is shot.....goin to the dump unless anyone can use the numbers on it??

 

[mcmopar]

no need to replace it if a .040 or .060 overbore will solve the problem.
Don't dump the radiator - just have it recored - especially if it is a 26" heavy duty unit. I have the 26" rad and a guy at Old Town came by one Sat night some time ago and told me the tanks alone are worth some $$$. I had mine recored with a 4 row core (3 was standard) for less than I would have paid for a new one.

The rule of thumb to use in replacing parts is "never throw the old one out unless its just all used up". You can always use the old part for a core if need be. "Waste not want not".

 

[Collin]

Oh ok, good to know about the radiator. Did you send it out or have someone locally repair it? I like the idea of keepin an original part as to buying new, especially when it would be cheaper!!!!!!

 

[ACME A12]

no need to replace it if a .040 or .060 overbore will solve the problem.
Don't dump the radiator - just have it recored - especially if it is a 26" heavy duty unit. I have the 26" rad and a guy at Old Town came by one Sat night some time ago and told me the tanks alone are worth some $$$. I had mine recored with a 4 row core (3 was standard) for less than I would have paid for a new one.

The rule of thumb to use in replacing parts is "never throw the old one out unless its just all used up". You can always use the old part for a core if need be. "Waste not want not".

John is absolutely correct on both points... Your friendly neighborhood machinist will be able to tell you if the block will clear up with a minimal overbore...and if it is safe to do so...

...and there's no reason to scrap that radiator...unless the last three numbers on it are "054" in which case it is absolutely junk and should be immediately scrapped by a reputable radiator salvage yard..."ACME Radiator Salvage" in New Port Richey, FL is the best place around for this and they will even pay to have your garbage "054" radiator shipped to them for proper disposal...

:jester:

 

[Collin]

Actually, just looked outside at it and the last numbers ARE 054. What does this mean for me? Obviously it means something to you seeing as it was a A12 option, now whats this difference between small font and large font??



Ok well just found out that this radiator is worth about 700 bucks?? And i was gonna throw it away???? Close one!!! :crazy: :crazy: