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Rain-X is fantastic..............but due to air flow on the '68/'69 Road Runners, (probably many others of that era as well) it's useless. The air hits the flat front end and flows up and over the hood and windshield, leaving a dead air space on the hood and windshield. Water beads just sit...

WOW! That wire harness looks like a nightmare to replace.

I have switched from T5 10W-30 to T5 15W-40. Anti-wear additives T4 15W-40 T5 10W-30 T5 15W-40 T6 5W-40 T6 15W-40 Phosphorous 1034 1,039 1068 1049 1000 Boron 198 22 123 174 180 Molybdenum 0 1 58 1 1 Zinc 1130 1,181 1198 1097 1095

Glad it worked out for you Russ. It made a believer out of me.

Also helps get rid of moisture in the crankcase. I wouldn't be without one.

That is exactly what I was told when I looked into vinyl.

YES!

I had gear clash from 1st to 2nd when cold. I went to Penzoil Synchromesh. No more gear clash and it shifts like butter when cold.

Is it safe to assume it was a "rebuilt" alternator?

I'll second that.

That's how I did mine (383). I didn't know about the other port at the time.

A 180° thermostat and a fan shroud did the trick for me.

Specification Chart: Specs Rotella T4 Rotella T5 Rotella T6 Oil Type Conventional Synthetic Blend Fully Synthetic Engine Type Gasoline/Diesel Gasoline/Diesel Gasoline/Diesel Viscosity Grade SAE 15W-40 SAE 10W-30 SAE 10W-30 SAE 15W-40 SAE 0W-40 SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-40 SAE...

I agree with Acme. That's what's in my '69 Road Runner.

OK, you guys have convinced me. After studying the numbers in the link I posted, I'm going to Rotella T5 15W40.

You guys are starting to worry me. What's wrong with Rotella T5 10W30 and a bottle of ZDDP Plus? P.S. Found this pretty interesting. https://comparemotoroils.com/shell-rotella-t4-vs-t5-vs-t6/

I left the ammeter bypassed with the wires screwed together and insulated. The aftermarket under dash voltmeter is connected to a spade connector on the fuse block. There are two, one on each side. One is hot all the time and the other is hot only with ignition on.

Again, that is what I did. Ammeter bypassed with and under dash voltmeter.

That is exactly what I did. Never had a problem, but never checked the wire temps either.

That is not metal. That is an insulator, preventing the two studs from making contact. That is an indication of a bad insulator causing a short. Be advised that there is also an identical insulator inside the gauge that may be deteriorated. That is what caused my problem and why I bypassed it.