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Mine was rusted pretty bad when I bought it in'14. After cleaning it up I used Chassis Saver and then rattle caned it to match the color. So far so good.
I have found the same thing. Fuel evaporates and the long crank time is replenishing the fuel in the float bowls. I use a plastic olive oil bottle filed with gas and give each of the float bowls a good healthy squirt through the carb vents before cranking it after a long rest. She fires up like...
Ask 5 different peolpe and you'll get 10 different answers, but for what it's worth, I run Rotella T5 10W30.
As for filters, I'll use most anything except Fram.
P.S.
Walmart SuperTech filters are made by WIX.
Ron, I have replaced my second orange box. I still have one in the trunk as a spare, but here is what I went with this time.
He claims "THE MOST RELIABLE ECU MONEY CAN BUY!". Just another consideration...
I would bet that a tube of clear 100% silicone caulk would also do the job quite well.
I used it under the bezel to attach the radio antenna to the fender when I installed a universal antenna, but the OEM mount would not adapt. Worked great and solid as a rock.
According to the factory Service Manual, 383. 4BBL, 4 spd came with a 22" radiator and no shroud.
I whole heartedly agree with quickbird. Install a shroud. Not cheap, but well worth it.
They still do. That's how they can offer "Lifetime Warranty". I would only buy dumb parts from them, like wiper blades, bulbs, fluids etc. I once broke my own rule and bought a belt tensioner pulley from them. It lasted a month. I learned my lesson.
I've had my console out to replace the carpets and as best as I can remember , I think it might be easier to get the shifter and boot mounted before the console, but I can't say for sure that it can't be done the other way around.
I guess "how much" depends on how much it is sticking up. I'd say just enough to see a little squeeze out. Then you know you have good contact. Mine was sticking up just a bit so it did not take but one or maybe two pieces of tape to hold it down.
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