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This has scam written all over it, but just for fun, tell him that you have a friend in Superior Wi. that will inspect it and take pictures for you and ask for the location. Then sit back and watch all the reasons he comes up with why that is not an option.
Oh boy, another oil war.
"Best" is subjective, but for what little it's worth, I run Rotella T5 10W30 with a bottle of ZDDP Plus.
Oil filter? Anything but Fram. Usually SuperTech or Purolator.
Probably a bit oversized, but mine had an Edelbrock 750 on it when I bought it. Probably because it had a real wild cam that I have since replaced with a more streetable cam. I replaced the jets & rods to lean it out a bit because it was a bit on the rich side. Runs fine and no complaints.
I had a set on my car when I bought it. Lots of tread left, but had a belt separate a couple hundred miles from home. Limped home on the interstate at 55 MPH with the flashers on. Maybe a fluke, but that was enough for me. I'm on Coopers now.
This may or may not be relevant, but for what it's worth, here goes. My '69 Road Runner (383) had a bouncing tach. All other gauges where normal. Long story short, it turned out to be failing insulators in the amp gauge. I bypassed it and the problem went away.
The ammeter is kind of like a light bulb. It works or it doesn't. If you are cranking, and seeing movement to the discharge side during cranking, and have lights, it's working.
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