Search results

I thought about doing that on the trunk lid for the ‘70 and would work. Mine had the tape stripe delete on the trunk lid and therefore uses an emblem. Because it is on the lip of the lid, you cannot access the back side. So they use the plastic inserts and the emblem is held on with that. The...

Just repainted the headlight door on the '70 RR and turned out better than I thought it would. I used spray paint from 8774paint1.com and worked out well. This uses the light and dark Argent paint. Nice paint, but be prepared to shake the can constantly as you spray as it settles quickly. Also...

Permatex makes a teflon based thread sealant paste. Comes in a tube and about the same consistency as toothpaste. Spread it on and it firms up once installed. I know it is oil resistant but not 100% sure about fuel. Works very well.

The emblem should have studs that are part of that emblem. Those studs fit into the holes in the panel and then the stamped metal nuts are used to secure. You will want to use sealer in the nut cavity to seal the holes.

Ok, I will let you know. Thanks.

Is it fair to say that if I were to file the vent glass and it didn't shatter, that it wouldn't shatter later on?

The smallest gap I have on both sides is 1/8" and that is only for about 3". It gradually gets better and then the rest is at least a 1/4" gap the rest of the way around. 1/8" is fine with me without the clips, but with the clips is too tight for my tastes. So I will attempt to file just that...

Exactly. One of my mainstay replies.

Good to know about tempered area. That is the same way when heat treating metals. So the glass is about 3/16" thick. All I really wanted to take off was about a 1/16". That should clear the clip and screw and use the rubber tape as you mentioned. It will be close, but so is everything I do on...

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/mopar-b-body-68-70-coronet-roadrunner-rear-window-reveal-trim-clip-set/ C-8001 is the rear and C-8000 is the front. The reason I know these are AMK is because that is their number. You can search for it on AMK's site. I have already test fit my molding...

Well yes I do jest and stop calling me Shirley! :)

Thanks! This box was no precision fit and required fudging here and a little squeeze there. But I am sure you know!

After many hours of work, finally got my heater box ready to rip. I went full out and pulled the cable brackets off and zinc plated those as well as the many sheet metal pieces that were installed as bare metal. I was able to just scrub the fiberglass and recoated with SEM plastic semi gloss...

Finally got around to testing the fit of the rear window. I ended up ditching the rubber blocks that came with the kit and did my own. I used rubber pads made from sheet rubber. I have several thicknesses of EPDM rubber and used that to get the height of the glass pretty even around the...

Thanks. I kind of figured that after looking at pictures. The part’s websights aren’t much help with info like that. I’ll make sure I get the 9.5” !

I am confused when you use the 9-1/2” long armrest pad and when you should use the 13” long pad for the front. My RR was disassembled when I bought it and have no idea which it had. It is a ’70 RR hardtop with the deluxe interior and bench seats. I know you have to have the matching length base...

I think the ones I have are from AMK now. Any comment on those?

Where did you buy the clips that worked? I am worried mine are too stiff as well. Thanks.

I did not install the clips but will for sure. I have already made sure the trim fits the opening without the usual misalignment. The clips should not be a problem as long as there is enough space between the glass and the metal which there is (or will be). I am sure if the glass is made...

Thanks guys. I was pretty sure that was what was used. Seems pretty Cheepo considering they are threaded studs and could use a regular hex nut. Most of those nuts are used on pot metal and plastic studs and they make their own threads. Not sure why they used these here other than cost.