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Yes, and both ends of dash. Firewall underhood looks to be factory air, as does Heat/AC selector.

Its really hard to say without knowing how the system is wired. Is it wired as original or did a previous owner change some things up? Sure looks like those terminals are more burnt than in previous pictures.

No. You cannot hook up a Voltmeter where the Ammeter was. A voltmeter is wired is parallel, an Ammeter in series. Their is no easy way to short cut this or find an "easy fix". You need to pull the cluster and inspect all the wires. You will find just as many people that like Ammeters (like...

The wires were probably a lot hotter when running thru the Ammeter. How did you connect the wires? Butt connector? Bolt them together? The Red wire has been hot in the past so the terminal currently crimped to it is suspect, as are the wire ends. Current flowing thru the wires will vary a...

The two wires need to be connected to each other, that is currently done thru the ammeter. You could put both under 1 of the ammeter studs or cut and slice the wires together. If you put both wires under 1 stud there will be no current flowing thru ammeter and less chance of heat issues.

Neither of those wires are from the factory. The red wire appears to have been pretty hot at one time. I had the same issue with my 69. Symptoms were a bit different, Ammeter nuts were tight, but studs were loose. When you get it apart you will likely see something like this. Insulator...

Quit worrying about the alternator for now, if the battery doesn't discharge the alternator and associated wiring is most likely fine. Take a look at the Ammeter is this Ebay post. In one of the pictures you can see the insulator that is inside the gauge, there will also be a similair...

The gauge is pretty robust and most likely good, the issue is with the connections. Without load on the wires, they probably won't be to warm, add load to a loose connection and I'm sure the wires will get hot. Its time to take cluster out, get the gauge in your hand, post some pictures and...

You don't need more opinions, you really need to take the cluster out and investigate. Sometimes when trying to tighten the nuts the studs will turn in the ammeter base causing other problems. You could remove both wires and bolt them together, wrapping heavily in tape for the short term, but...

Ammeter is pretty much independent of the rest of the cluster. Have you looked at the connections on the gauge? Loose, burnt??

If you are looking for a direct bolt in replacement (pretty much exact duplicate of OEM), M&H is a good supplier. Year One is one of their distributors. I replaced all my harnesses with M&H and couldn't be happier, direct replacement no cutting, no extra wires, etc. The American Harness looks...

From what I can see from the pic and wiring diagram you should not have a red wire there, knowing which cavity it occupies will possibly help identify the circuit.

Its difficult to tell from your photo. Which bulkhead socket does the red wire enter?

Have you inpsected or done anything with the AC/Heater controller? There are two fuses in the circuit, one for the blower motor and the other for the AC controls, which is blowing? I would disconnect the 6 wire harness from the AC controller and check the pigtails Tan, Black, and Brown wire...

Does the fuse blow immediately upon hitting one of the selector buttons? Does the fuse blow if you have the blower motor unhooked? What position is blower motor switch in when issue occurs? Is the time delay relay still hooked up?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/672179373746897/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner Set of 14" near St Louis, also posted on Craigslist. Not mine.

Working on 69 Road Runner factory AC, previous owner updated to Sanden style compressor, all other parts appear to be factory or newer replacement of same style. I've noticed there is NO pressure switch of any type that would cycle the compressor, so the compressor runs ALL the time. This model...

Why is your tach reading 3000 rpm?

Purple wire connects to Bat terminal on Alternator where it gets power at all times. Black w/tracer goes thru bulkhead to horn button, green wire to horn.

Why don't you load test the ignition doo dad? By your description I take it you have the Chrysler Electronic Ignition that has a pick up coil and reluctor ring in the distributor. If you have a soldering iron, electric engraver, or a tattoo gun you can test the complete secondary ignition...